Cooling Summer Aquariums

Q: HB wrote,

Nippyfish, my aquarium is getting too warm for my fish now that summer is here. I don't have A/C and I'm afraid my betta is going to cook. The temperature is already up to 82F. What can I do?

A: As summer approaches many of us will have to struggle with warmer water temperatures. Very warm temperatures can be stressful to fish just as very cold temperatures are and can lead to common illnesses. Flavobacterium columnare, for example, often rears it's ugly-fungal-looking head in the summer after a quick warm up of the tank water. Fortunately for those of us who keep bettas and other tropical fish the tolerable temperature zone is a little higher and easier to manage then it is for our cool water counterparts.

At 82˚F, your aquarium has only just reached the upper threshold of what Betta splendens prefer. At this point you really don't have anything to worry about. Should the temperature continue to rise you may want to consider some simple steps to beat the heat.

First, it seems obvious but make sure your fish tank is out of direct sunlight. Sure bettas look pretty on the window sill but I promise they won't look nearly as impressive if they're belly up.

Secondly, larger water volumes take a lot longer to heat up then a small tank so if you expect a hot summer, or worse, hot days and cool nights you will certainly benefit from getting your betta bigger digs. A 5 gallon tank will show smaller temperature fluctuation from day to night then a 1 gal and is still quite compact. An even better arrangement is a 10 gallon, which can keep temperatures quite stable for a long time. Cheap or even free 10 gallons aquariums are everywhere. My favorite place to pick up a quick 10 gal set up is on Craigslist.org.

Thirdly, trade in that plastic lid and light hood for a screen or mesh top. You can buy them for standard size tanks but if you at all resemble the typical penny-pinching aquarist you can make one out of window screening and cardboard. When you're done you can take the money you saved and buy more bettas.

Lastly, set up a small house fan so that it blows over the surface of your aquarium. Believe it or not, this simple action works wonders for cooling the water. Just remember that evaporation will occur much quicker then usual so you will need to replace lost water daily and most importantly, don't forget that electric fans and water don't mix. Give yourself ample room and watch those cords so no one gets zapped.

My New Betta Fish is Skittish

Q: SB wrote,

I just brought home a new betta last night and he is acting skittish when I approach his bowl. Is there something I can do to keep him calm?

A: Adjusting to a new tank can be stressful for some bettas. To help ease the transition you can place your betta in a quiet, low traffic area of your home while he is getting used to his new set up. Bettas don't hear the same way you and I do but they are able to feel vibrations so try to avoid the thumping of stereo base or similar low vibrations if your betta appears to be skittish. If his aquarium is in a permanent location and can't be easily moved you can wrap the glass in a towel for the first day or so until he gets used to things. Bettas also love plants and caves. Not only are they an interesting addition to your tank but they offer your betta a sense of security. Help your betta feel protected in his first few days and soon he will be greeting you at the glass, wiggling his tail and begging for food with the rest of them.

New Betta Won't Eat

Q: FP wrote,

Christie, I just bought a crowntail male from a breeder 3 days ago and he won't eat anything I give him. I have tried Bio-Gold pellets, betta bites and flakes. Is he stressed out from being shipped? I'm afraid he's going to starve to death.

A: Acclimating to a new environment can certainly be a stressful experience and it isn't at all uncommon for bettas to refuse food in the first several days. It can take up to two weeks for starvation to occur (so, I'm told... I've never tried of course) so there is no need to worry at this time. Personally, I have had bettas go a full 8 days before accepting food.

You may also want to consider what you are feeding. Often breeders prefer to feed a nutritious combination of live or frozen foods to insure your new betta is in tip top condition. It's very possible that your fish has never seen pellets or flakes and doesn't yet recognize them as betta food. You can either try offering him live foods like blackworms or brine shrimp or their frozen counterparts. If this isn't an option for you then I recommend consistently feeding one brand of pellets/flakes until your betta learns to recognize it. Of course, food left to decompose in the tank can lead to serious water quality issues so if your betta doesn't bite in the first 10 minutes, remove the uneaten food and try again later.

Tank Mates for 10 gal Betta Aquarium

Q: B wrote,

I just finished cycling a 10 gallon tank for my betta, Mo. I want to add some other fish. I was thinking of some guppies, a snail and maybe some kind of algae eater. Will this be okay for my tank? How many more fish can I add? Thanks.

A: A 10 gallon tank is a great choice for a betta home. It's small yet easy to maintain and you can still have enough room for a few other tank mates. Bettas tend to have "personalities" unique to the individual ranging from highly aggressive to docile or even skittish. It may take a little trial and error to see how your betta fares with other fish. While the vast majority of bettas do quite well in a community tank I like to have a contingency plan available for those who don't handle tank mates well. You may need a back up aquarium, a friend or aquarium club who can take your fish or a LFS (local fish store) that can take unwanted fish. The best thing you can do to minimize aggression is to choose tank mates that have traditionally cohabitated well with bettas in the home aquarium. Some fish that often work well include, otocinclus (algae eaters), small corydoras, apple snails, ghost shrimp and rasboras.

Some species may require more observation like fish with bright colors and/or flowing fins like fancy guppies or platys. It is strongly advised that you have a Plan B in place if you are considering these fish. African Dwarf Frogs sometimes work but can be aggressive at times and also may need to be hand fed to assure they get their share of the food. Female bettas can be kept in groups of 3 or more, however, males and females shouldn't share a tank.

Some species are to be avoided; these include fish that are aggressive and may nip at fragile betta fins. Fish that are closely related to bettas like the various gourami species or paradise fish should also be avoided. Any fish that do not share the same basic needs as bettas should not be considered as tank mates. These species include cool water fish like gold fish or brackish water fish like mollies.**

Whichever fish you choose be sure to research them properly BEFORE buying them. Many species, like bettas, have very specific needs. Rasboras for instance are schooling fish and need to be kept in groups and apple snails need specific nutrients to keep their shells strong and healthy. Before running off to the store take a few days to research the species your are interested in. When you finally decide on a tank mate always quarantine them in a separate tank for a minimum of four weeks to insure they aren't harboring bacteria, viruses or parasites.



** mollies can be kept in total freshwater but many aquarists believe they thrive in brackish water so to err on the side of caution I tend to discount them as potential betta tank mates.

Bubble Nests & Bettas

Q: SS wrote,

I'm afraid my betta is sick. He never blows bubbles and I read that only healthy bettas blow bubble nests. Is there something I can do to get him to blow bubbles?

A: While it's true that healthy male bettas tend to blow bubble nests more then unhealthy bettas it isn't a given that your healthy male will makes nests. First, not all males create nests at the same rate. Some may blow bubbles almost daily while others will only create a few nests per year. Another major factor is your tank set up. The slightest current tends to upset most bubble nests making them impossible to hold. If you have your betta in a tank with a power filter his nests may not stand up to the current. I decided long ago to forgo the nests in favor a more stable aquarium environment. I decided to cycle all my tanks and while the current is minor, I virtually never see any nests. This doesn't mean the bettas aren't healthy. On the contrary I have created a much healthier and stable environment.

Conditioning your betta may prompt him to create more nests but it isn't a sure thing. Conditioning is something breeders often to do get a fish ready to spawn. It usually includes a few weeks of keeping your fish in water similar to its natural environment (slightly acidic in this case) and feeding live or frozen foods. Bringing a female into view may also perk up his interest in creating a nest. There's nothing like the right girl to get a male thinking about a family. ;-)

Just remember that bubble nests are made by healthy males but not all healthy males make nests.

Pinhole in Betta's Tail Fin

Q: FP wrote,

My betta has a pinhole in his tail fin. What kind of medicine should I use to fix this? Is this a case of fin rot?

A: A pinhole is nothing to worry about. They happen occasionally and will heal themselves in a few days. Fin rot is a bacterial infection and is often characterized by black or bloodied fin tips, ragged ends or sudden loss of fin. It can be avoided by keeping your water clean and avoiding stressors like ammonia, nitrite and rapid temperature or pH fluctuations. Minor fin rot can be usually be treated successfully with clean water and the betta's own immune system. Severe fin rot may require medication but because many medications can be quite potent they should be reserved for instances when the fish cannot heal itself.

Click to learn more about Betta fin loss and fin rot.

Betta Centerpiece for My Wedding

Q: WP wrote,

Hi Christie. I'm getting married this summer and want to use Siamese fighting fish as my centerpieces to give away to guests. They're so beautiful and I can color coordinate them with my flower arrangements. Do I have to worry about them jumping out of the vases during the reception? Will the music bother them? I want to make sure they stay safe so I appreciate any advice you can give me.

A: Thanks for writing in about your plans to incorporate Betta Splendens into your wedding reception. It's always best to ask those who know before you undergo an endeavor that involves live animals. To get right to the point, there really is no safe way to incorporate bettas into your reception. At least not one that has been thought up yet. Even if your bettas survive little cousin Bobby's not-so-scientific experiment introducing cocktails into your betta bowls, it is unlikely that they will ever survive the first week home with their new owners. Fish care is a very complicated effort and it involves an understanding of water chemistry, aquatic ecosystems and fish biology. It's just too much to expect from your average party guest.

Providing bettas for your guests is asking them to make both a time and financial contribution. These fish require appropriate housing (1 gallon minimum tanks), heat, food, water treatment chemicals, water testing kits and weekly if not daily maintenance. These are just the basics to give them a chance of survival. Bettas can also live up to 5 years. That's a pretty long time to keep your guest motivated.

The most important thing to remember is that fish are live animals worthy of food, shelter and a clean environment. There is no such thing as a disposable pet and they all deserve a chance at a good home. If you're still thinking that bettas make a cool centerpiece just rest assured that live party favors went out of style in the 80s along with fur coats and eye-liner on bunnies. The new 2006 bride is eco-aware and environmentally conscientious. Perhaps instead of buying ten $5 fish you could donate that $50 to one of your favorite animal rescue organizations like the ASPCA. Let your guests know what you did and they will be all the more appreciative that they aren't leaving your wedding with a whole new responsibility.

Best wishes to you and congratulations on your special day.

Bloated Betta

Q: CF wrote,

Why is my betta's stomach so bloated? Is he getting fat?

A: A few things can cause a bettas stomach to bloat. Overfeeding is the most common culprit. Most fish food containers advise you to feed your betta what they can eat in two minutes. Because bettas tend to bloat it's better to offer him just a small amount of food at a time. A bettas stomach is about as big as one of his eyeballs so feeding about that amount twice per day is safe. For a grown male that equates to about 3 - 4 pellets, large flakes or blood worms or a couple of brine shrimp. Dry foods like Betta pellets, Bio-Gold or freeze-dried bloodworms (not to be confused with frozen) contain less then 10% moisture and swell when introduced to water. A bettas natural diet consists of live insects and insect larvae that contain nearly 90% water. Some bettas have difficulty with the dry foods and will constipate. after eating them. To avoid this potential issue, soak dry foods in a cup of tank water for about 10 minutes before feeding allowing them to swell with water before entering the betta's digestive track.

Bloating may also be a symptom Dropsy. Dropsy is a term that describes the final stages of organ failure. Unfortunately it is very common among bettas and is nearly always fatal. Bettas that do initially overcome it often succumb to it again in the following weeks or months. Dropsy is believed to be caused by bacterial, viral and/or parasitic infections/infestations. The bloating is caused by the build up of fluids internally and is often diagnosed by the telltale "pinecone effect" or a massively bloated abdomen that appears to be filled with fluid. Click to learn more about Dropsy.

Betta in final stages of Dropsy

Flare Buddies for Bettas

Q: FN Wrote,

Should I get my betta a flare buddy so he won't be depressed?

A: Flare buddies are a bit of a misnomer. Male bettas are territorial by nature. This is an instinctual pattern imprinted in their DNA designed for the survival of the species. When mating, healthy aggressive male bettas bully away their weaker competitors ensuring that the strongest genes survive. After spawning it is the males that protect the bubble nest from predators and raise the fry in their earliest days. Male bettas do not view other males as "friends" but instead as dangerous advisories intending to harm their young.

Allowing your male betta to view other males isn't all bad. In their natural environment they would encounter other males on occasion and it is all right to introduce your betta to others to replicate these interactions. It's never recommended to place two bettas in the same tank where they can harm each other. Instead, you can place their tanks close together for a few minutes a day or simply hold up a mirror to mislead your betta into thinking his reflection is a competing male. You can also set up a tank with a mesh divider and place a male on each side. If you go with this type of system it's recommended that you include a variety of plants and hiding places on each side of the divider so that the the bettas only occasionally view each other. This can be achieved inexpensively in a standard 10 gallon tank.

Only healthy males should be visually exposed to other males. Do not stress already sick bettas by showing them other males or their reflections. If your betta is consistently lethargic it is more likely that the cause is an environmental one and not emotional. Betta brains are considerably more simplified then are own and are probably not capable of depression in the human understanding. If you are concerned about enrichment consider feeding your betta live foods, adding other non-betta tank mates or occasionally rearranging the decor. It's unknown if these benefit the betta from an enrichment perspective but they are safe alternatives to constant exposure to other males.

For more information on betta flare buddies read Flare Buddies, Friend or Foe?

Plastic Plants OK for Betta?

Q: TF wrote,

Christie, I can't afford live plants for my betta tank. Can I use plastic plants instead?

A: As long as the plants you choose don't have sharp pieces that will tear fragile betta fins it doesn't matter if they are real or fake. A helpful way to determine if your plants are safe is to run a pair of pantyhose over it. If the hose don't snag they will be safe for your betta. [Husbands, be sure to ask your wife's permission first ;-) ] In place of plastic, consider silk aquarium plants as an alternative.

There are also several commonly found live plants that are very inexpensive and quite resilient. Try java ferns, java lace, java moss or anubias for a tough plant that does well in low light conditions. You can also visit your local aquarium club where plants are frequently traded or sold for practically pennies a piece.

Betta Water Temperature

Q: IW wrote,

My local fish store told me I didn't need a heater for my betta tank. Is this true?

A: A betta tank should be warm and stable at an optimal temperature of about 78F (25.5C). A few wild species of bettas are naturally found in waters in the low 70s but the more common tank raised Betta splenden species prefer their water temperature between 76F (24.4C) and 81F (27.2C) When temperatures fall below 75F (23.8C) bettas tend to become much less active. Temperatures of 70F (21.1C) or below may prove dangerous to bettas.

Stability is equally as important as warmth. Large fluctuations from day to night can stress bettas leaving them susceptible to illness. Try not to allow your temperature to fluctuate more then 2 degrees Fahrenheit or 1 degree Celsius in a 24 hour period. An aquarium heater can help you to maintain a stable temperature. A lamp is not considered a stable source of heat and may cause greater and more hazardous fluctuations then no lamp at all.

Betta with Clamped Fins

Q: RF wrote,

Hi Christie,
I recently bought a betta fish. It was the healthiest looking one I could
find but one of his fins is clamped. I don't know why and like to cure it
if I can. On the previous site I could find clamped fins under the
Symptoms/illness & disease but now I can't see that anywhere. Can you help
me out?

A: Clamped fins signal that something is stressing him. There is no
specific disease that causes clamped fins but it does indicate that
something isn’t right. Poor water quality is the number one cause of
betta illnesses. It’s possible that the water he was in before you bought
him contained toxins from his waste like ammonia. Depending on how long
you have had him these toxins could be building up in his current tank
too. If you bought him quite recently he may have experienced stress
from the acclimation process particularly if there were differences in
temperature or pH from the water he came in to the new water.

Despite what some manufacturers may print on their packages there is no
medicine that treats clamped fins. The best thing you can do is test
your water for toxins and do frequent water changes being careful to
avoid large fluctuations in temperature and pH. You should also be
vigilant for signs of disease. If symptoms of illness do appear then you
can reassess your options for treatment.

For now, clean water is the best thing you can give your betta.

Do let me know how things progress and congratulations on the arrival of
your new betta.