Terracotta in the Aquarium

Killer, September 4, 2004
Originally uploaded by flaring.


HAPPY HALLOWEEN!

Q: C wrote,

Is it ok to add a small terracotta pot to my betta's aquarium?

A: While it's always safest to add only decorations to our tanks that are manufactured specifically for aquarium use, often we are inspired to add everyday items to our aquariums. Terracotta pots are commonly added to aquariums, sometimes broken into bits and other times whole or containing aquarium plants. The color can create a beautiful contrast to the shades of green provided by live or synthetic plants and fish love to utilize them as hiding spaces. Terracotta, however, is not always safe. First and foremost, it's always best to use a new pot that has never been exposed to fertilizers or soils that contain fertilizers like Miracle-Gro. Occasionally, terracotta can alter your water parameters, specifically pH. Once you have found the pot you'd like to use, place it in a bucket of aged tap water and test the pH. After at least 24 hours test the pH again and observe any changes. If no change in pH is detected the terracotta is probably safe for your fish.

Please note that I recommended the water be aged prior to adding the terracotta. This is because tap water will often experience sudden drastic shifts in pH once it has been exposed to the atmosphere. Aging the water 24 hours will allow the pH to stabilize and you will get a truer reading. Otherwise, there is no way to determine if the change in pH was caused by the terracotta or as a result of exposure to the atmosphere.

Other types of ceramic pots may be safe to use in your aquarium as well but determining which can be very difficult if not impossible. Personally, I am not familiar with the various glazing compounds used on ceramic pots so if they aren't your basic terracotta or designed specifically for aquarium use, I avoid them altogether.

Have fun aquascaping and if you have any creative uses for terracotta you'd like to show off, feel free to email me your photo and I will add it to this Blog entry.

Betta Tankmates: Neon Tetras

Neon Tetras
Originally uploaded by Big-E-Mr-G.

Q: G wrote,

Do Neon Tetras make good tank mates for male bettas? How many can go in a 10 gallon aquarium?

A: Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon innesi) may make good tank mates for your male Betta if the circumstances are right. The basics for success are already there. Both neons and bettas enjoy similar water parameters. They thrive in a tropical tank with a slightly acidic pH, soft to moderate hardness and a temperature between 75F - 79F [24C - 26C]. Neither bettas nor neons do well when exposed to ammonia or nitrite and neons are especially sensitive to poor water quality so a cycled tank is a must.

The most important thing to address with neon tetras are their social structure. Neons are a shoaling species and must be kept in groups for long-term success. Schools smaller then 6 tend to suffer stress induced illnesses so plan on keeping several at a time. In a 10 gallon [38 liters] with one male betta you can safely keep 6 - 8 neons with good filtration and weekly partial water changes.

Because you are looking to house your neon tetras with a male betta specifically, there are a few other things to consider as well. First, it's best to avoid adding neons to a tank with a betta who is known to be overly aggressive. As you probably know, individual male and female betta personalities can range from the timid to the outright belligerent. If your betta has a bad reputation you may want to concede to his desire to go solo. Even if your betta is willing to play nice with others, it is highly recommended to choose only individual neons of a healthy adult size. Very young or small neons have a habit of being confused with dinner. Aim for companions that won't fit in your betta's mouth.

When choosing neon tetras, look for fish that are swimming with the group, have vibrant coloration and are all around healthy in appearance. Avoid fish that may be hiding, lethargic, showing signs of disease or are misshapen. Neons are notorious for not shipping well so ask your LFS when they arrived. If they just came in, give them a couple of days to develop any illnesses. My local PetCo is good about telling it's customers when the neons have just arrived because they are familiar with the problems that develop. On occasion they will even put a hold on selling the fish until they have acclimated properly. Neons are very prone to Ich and Neon Tetra Disease. I always caution aquarists to quarantine new fish for a minimum of 4 weeks but I emphasize it even more so with these fish. Because a change in water parameters fuels stress induced illnesses, I recommend acclimating them to their quarantine tank using the water from the Betta tank that will ultimately be their final destination. This way they aren't exposed to the stress of acclimating to the store water, the quarantine tank water and then the final aquarium water all within a month.

Neons are gorgeous little fish and are fascinating to watch. Personally, they are my favorite of the common shoaling fish and look absolutely amazing in a tank with dark substrate and live plants. Good luck and I hope you enjoy the addition of neon tetras to your aquarium.

To learn about other Betta splendens tank mates visit the Tankmates page at Nippyfish.net.

Tail Biting Bettas

Sarge1: Crowntail Betta
Originally uploaded by Aimzee.

Healthy crowntail male Betta splendens.


Q: N wrote,

I think I have a tail biter. His caudal fin is shredded and there is nothing in the tank that could be doing it to him. No sharp plants or other fish. I have dealt with fin rot before with another betta and it doesn't appear to be that either. Ammonia is 0, nitrite is 0 and nitrate is 12 ppm.

A: Well, it's not totally unheard of for Bettas to bite their own tails. I personally haven't dealt with it but I hear about it from others. I suspect that in most cases the ragged fins are a result of poor water quality or injury from tank decor or other fish. Too often people believe their betta is biting his own fins when the problem is environmental but in your case, I think you might be right. Based on the water parameters you provided, your tank is fully cycled and in good shape, at least as far as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are concerned. If there are no sharp rocks, plastic plants or heavy filter suction to catch his fins then it's possible he is doing it to himself. I recommend observing him closely to see if you can catch him in the act.

The reason Betta's bite their own fins is unknown. Some say it's stress, others say boredom and still others think it could be hunger, pent up aggression or even hereditary. The truth is, we just don't know. There are a few things you can do to help him along. First, continue to keep your water very clean to avoid infection. Some Betta keepers have successfully broken the habit by changing the aquarium decor around or by adding more silk or live plants. Adjusting the light levels may be useful too reduce reflections which may fuel your Bettas aggression. If your aquarium is large enough, you may find adding a few peaceful community fish will keep your Betta occupied.

In addition to clean water, you can also add Pimafix or half strength Melafix to the tank to help regenerate fin growth. If your betta reacts to the medication negatively, discontinue use.

Blind Betta: Lunges at Food

balls
Originally uploaded by john.nathaniel.

Q: AC wrote,

I think my Betta might be going blind. When I drop pellets into his tank he lunges several times before he catches them and sometimes doesn't catch them at all. I feel bad for him.

A: I get this question more often then you'd believe. I think it is certainly possible for Bettas to loose their eyesight, especially as they age but I suspect a more common problem comes from how their eyes are placed on their heads in combination with non-moving "prey". I don't exactly have the scientific evidence to back this up but I too have had problems with Bettas catching their food, especially when I'm feeding pellets or flakes. Instead of dropping the food directly in front of them, try placing it to the side of them where their eyes are located so they are able to easily see it. Also, since Bettas are hunters who are naturally drawn to live prey, their bodies may have been designed to pinpoint movement more so than shape or distance. Your Betta might have better luck with a wiggly worm rather than more stagnant items. If you're squeamish and live worms aren't an option, you could try the frozen or freeze-dried variety, which can be dangled tantalizingly with a pair of aquarium forceps.

Interview with TYNK7: Breeding Bettas

playing
Originally uploaded by flaring.

TYNK7 is a Bettas splendens enthusiast who has been keeping Bettas for 28 years and breeding them for 20 years. This self titled "backyard breeder with a conscience" represents many of use who have an interest breeding quality bettas but who haven't gotten involved in fish shows or large scale commercial breeding. I was fortunate to run into TYNK in an online community newsgroup a couple of years ago where we have had countless discussions and debates about the aquarium hobby and Betta care specifically. When I expanded Nippyfish: A Betta Blog a few weeks ago to include interviews, glossary terms and reviews, TYNK agreed to share her knowledge on breeding these beautiful fish in my very first interview.

As many of you know I have a great interest in Betta health and fish care but deal very little with genetics and the breeding side of things. As more and more readers wrote in with their Betta breeding questions I felt it was about time to learn first hand, starting of course, with research. In my interview with TYNK we talked a little about how she started in the hobby, breeding challenges and ethical issues.

Thanks so much to TYNK for her time and invaluable advice.


NF: When did you first get involved with breeding Bettas? What inspired you to get involved at the beginning?

TYNK7: When I was a kid, My Auntie Helen got her first Betta. We all lived in a typical Chicago, IL home, where there are 2 separate homes in one house.
We were a close family, and her being another critter lover I spent a lot of time with her. I was a weird kid, as I spent a lot of my free time not playing with other kids, but spending time at Van Oak's Pet shop on Harlem Ave.. The owner was great and let me hang around. I learned a lot from him, but then again I knew more about certain fish than many of the folks in their buying fish.
My Auntie Helen had trained her Betta to jump out of her community tank and grab food. She would also cup her hand under the surface and he would swim right into it and just hang out (in her hand).
I was fascinated with this fish and his beauty. So started my total addiction.
I had my first, very own tank when I was 11. I had a pair of black Mollies, one Angelfish and a male Betta. That was in 1978.
I believe it was 1986 when I had my first Betta spawn. Nothing much to brag about, as the fry didn't survive.
As time went on I learned as I went.
This is why I try to help folks out before they attempt it.
If my trials and failures can help somebody, I feel it's worth the effort. Plus, knowing the fry and adults have a better chance of making it with the help of somebody who has been there before.

NF: Most breeders either tend to take an interest in either color or finnage. Did you focus on one over the other?

TYNK7: Back when I was kid all we had were veils. The generic blues, reds, blue/reds and teals.
Oh to think of what was to come. If only I had visited a Gypsy back then with a crystal ball! = )

NF: Pretending you had a crystal ball then, is there any one type of betta you would have loved to have bred back in the day that may not have existed then?

TYNK7: I would have had to have a line of White Opaque CT's, Jet black CT's, and an Extended red CT line. Now that would have had to of been the CT Halfmoons or nearly HM, considered still a Delta.

NF: What strains were popular when you first started and what strains did you focus on throughout the years you bred?

TYNK7: Again, veils. That was all there was and now I have been trying to get a Crowntail line going but each time I try, something has gone awry.
Either the eggs didn't get fertilized, the female or male ate them or possibly the male was infertile. The last time I couldn't get the male to spawn with the proper female. I refuse to just spawn an unworthy pair.
That doesn't mean I won't stop trying!
Several years back I had 2 pairs of Bonnie McKinnley White Opaques.
I had one worthy pair out of them, and the male refused to spawn. He didn't have a clue! The female even rammed his side trying to get him to embrace, but nope. They ended up being costly pet Bettas. I loved them though, as they were gorgeous.

NF: How did you learn about the genetics and Betta breeding? Did you have a mentor or were you involved with a local Betta club like the IBC?

TYNK7: Well, I was strictly a hobbyist who had ethics in breeding. I knew what I liked and what I didn't. However, breeding veils that weren't from a fixed line was like opening up Christmas presents....you never knew what you'd get.
Now a days it's so much easier to track a breeding line, unless it's a mass bred pet store Betta. Then it's pot luck.

NF: Did you ever get involved with showing Bettas? Please elaborate.

TYNK7: Nope. Not at all. No interest in it either.
Strictly a hobby and for the love of the fish.

NF: Tell us a little about your set up when you were at the height of your Betta breeding. Tell us about your spawning tanks and grow out tanks. Did you use barracks, jars, etc.?

TYNK7: Well I never was at a height of breeding, as I was strictly a hobbyist that had good ethics. If that makes any sense. Like a back yard breeder with a conscience.
I preferred small spawns (easier to handle) and used 2 1/2 gallon standard tanks (rectangle shaped) tp spawn. Grow out tanks were 10-20g's and for juvie males...anything that I could get my hands on. Mayo jars, pickle jars, etc...
Lately I still spawn in the 2 1/2g's, but raise the females and juvie males that are not sparring yet in 20gH's.

NF: A "backyard breeder with a conscience" is a great _expression and probably represents a lot Betta breeders. Breeding ethics is a subject you hear a lot about from small home breeders and large scale breeders alike. In your opinion, what can we do to maintain an ethical breeding practice?

TYNK7: You need to know what a good body or what the proper fin shapes are. Possibly even an oddball trait that you might want to fix, just like the CT's, Combtails, Rosetails, etc., were all oddball freaks that a spawn tossed out. Somebody said wow...I have got to keep that going.
Never breed just to do it. That's how we get weak, ugly strains out there. Also, I wouldn't breed an overly aggressive male or female, as I don't want that passed down. I don't breed fighters, I breed for the beauty of the fish. If you have 2 magnificent specimens, then go for it.
If you have one and a so so mate..don't. That's where that "backyard breeder with a conscience" part comes into play. Also, make sure you have the time to devote to seeing it through from start to finish, and have a place for the fry to go to when they're ready for their new homes. Call your local shops ahead of time and ask them...if I had a spawn during X month, would you be willing to buy them from me. Knowing this ahead of time is a major key/ There are only so many friends and family members that will take them from you.
Sometimes you get a small spawn, sometimes you have hundreds of fish you need to find homes for. Knowing ahead of time what you are going to do with them is very important before jumping in.

NF: Did you condition your fish to get them ready to spawn? If yes, what did you feed? What water parameters did you aim for? Did you add anything special to your breeding tanks? (almond leaves, antifungal medicine, etc.)

TYNK7: Back then I used to pump the Brine Shrimp to condition them. Water was strictly Chicago tap...boy do I long for that now, as I have liquid rock for water here where I live now.
I would also add Black water tonic...although I believe they call it Black water extract now.

NF: Have you been able to breed successfully in the hard water you have now? Do you have to do anything to soften it or do you find it doesn't greatly affect the fish?

TYNK7: I had to monkey with my liquid rock for water. Otherwise I end up with midget Bettas.
I have to cut it with R.O. water and I always add Black Water Extract made by Tetra.
I have tried dried Oak leaves, as I heard it works in the same manor as dried Almond leaves, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
In hard water the bubbles tend to pop faster, and the male has to work harder to keep the nest up. I have found I have smaller hatch rate with it too. Completely different when I spawn Angelfish in it. They do pretty well if they are born and raised in it. If they aren't, they do not grow and I would have to cut it a lot with R.O. water.

NF: What were the greatest challenges you faced with your spawns? Were you able to overcome them and how?

TYNK7: The greatest challenge is when you have a spectacular pair and one doesn't care for the other. These fish have likes and dislikes, just like we humans do. We have to be able to understand that. That's hard to overcome.

NF: In your opinion, what is the most important thing to do to ensure a healthy grow out of fry?

TYNK7: RESEARCH FIRST! I cannot stress that enough.
You must be fully armed with the knowledge before trying to spawn Bettas, and then you must be fully set up with everything ready before you start. You must have a good source of fry food too.

NF: What are you using for fry food these days?

TYNK7: I still like to add a few drops of the Liquifry right after the spawning takes place. This starts the growth of infusoria in the tank, or so I was told many years ago. First foods are still boiled egg yolk (be careful, as it can foul a tank quickly if over done or left overs not being promptly cleaned up, and newly hatched Brine..either live or frozen. I had a microworm culture going at one time, but it got nasty on me and I haven't had a spawn since. I have also heard that Hikari has a dry food called "First Bites" that according to their rep on the phone it's small enough for Betta fry to eat. However, I have no experience in trying this. I do,however, have a package in my tank cabinet just in case.
All this talk of spawning is giving me the itch!

NF: What do you think about many of the newer strains developed today? (metallics, half moon plakats, rosetails & extreme rosetails, dragons, etc.)

TYNK7: I am in awe of them. At first I didn't care for the Crowntails, as they looked raggedy to me. As the strain got better, I fell in love [with] them.
The White Opaque's are so beautiful, as are the deep blacks.
I have had a Copper male, and a red Rosetail. I never did find a compatible female for the Copper, and the Rosetail was nearly killed by the worthy female I had. He survived, but he never grew out his fins. They healed, but that was it. I have never seen that before in a Betta, but I had been told by others who have had Halfmoons that they don't grow back their fins like they were.
Being used to hardy veils, I was shocked at his appearance after several months of healing. He still looks like he was in a blender. Poor little dude.

NF: What advice can you give to people just starting out breeding bettas

TYNK7: Do the much needed research first.
Get the much needed experience in keeping Bettas, getting to know how their heads work, and being prepared first.
There is much to learn about Bettas. These are thinking fish. They are aware of their surroundings outside their tanks. That wiggle dance isn't just for food. It's for your attention!
They have likes and dislikes, just like people do.
Learn their body language! That is SO important.
Especially when spawning the Cambodian strains, which are white or pink bodied. You cannot see their barring, either vertical or horizontal, so you must reply on body language alone.
You must also know that horizontal barring isn't just fear. It's probably 90% submission coloring, 5% fear, and 5% illness. It's up to the keeper to understand which.
Males can also show vertical barring from just excitement, so be able to tell the difference between readiness to spawn and excitement.
And lastly, pronounce our lovely fish's name properly. It's "bet-uh", not "bait-uh".

Both TYNK and myself can be found semi-regularly on The Freshwater Aquarium newsgroup at Google Groups.

Betta with Red, Inflamed Gills

Betta with healthy looking gills.

Q: MU wrote,

Hi Christie. I am hoping you can help me with my male Siamese fighting fish. Lately he has been laying on the bottom a lot not being very active. His gill covers are sticking out a little bit and look sort of red and irritated and he hasn't been blowing bubble nests like he was when I first got him. I don't see any spots or fuzzy white patches on him so I don't think it is Ich or columnaris. I will tell you a little about his set up too. He lives in a 1/2 gal bowl without filtration but has two java ferns to help keep the water clean. I do 50% water changes every other week using conditioned tap water. I try to match the new water to the bowl water as closely as possible. I don't test the water so I can't give you any information on that. What do you think is making him so sluggish? What causes irritated gills? Thanks for you help.

A: Thanks for including information on your water changes and bowl-set up. The more information you can provide the more we have to go on. I can't say for sure but my feeling is your Betta may have ammonia or nitrite poisoning. Ammonia is the main byproduct of fish waste. In a tank with a filtration system, beneficial bacteria will grow over time and begin to consume the ammonia. These bacteria then give off nitrite which is also toxic to fish. If given the chance, a second type of bacteria will grow to consume the nitrite. This is called the Nitrogen Cycle. In a bowl that is not cycled, the helpful bacteria don't have a chance to fully develop in order to consume all the ammonia and nitrite as quickly as it is produced. In this case, the only way to keep these toxins at bay is to do frequent full 100% water changes before they have a chance to become detectable at all. I suspect your half gallon bowl water needs to be changed much more frequently then the every two weeks you have been doing it previously. The symptoms of ammonia or nitrite poisoning are often lethargy, red or inflamed gills (gill covers sticking out when the Betta is resting and not flaring) and gasping for air. This occurs because the ammonia or the nitrite burn the gills of the fish making it very difficult or impossible for them to get dissolved oxygen out of the water. The fish begin to suffocate. This immense stress can lead to a weakened immune system and other illnesses can pop up.

It can be difficult to treat the gills once they have been burned by these toxins but there are steps you can take to help your Betta out. First, do a complete 100% water change being sure to match the new water temperature with the old. Add a good water conditioner, preferably one like Kordon's AmQuel+ and NovAqua combined, which eliminates chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals AND neutralizes ammonia. While adding aquarium salt to the water isn't usually necessary for Bettas it can improve gill function for fish exposed to nitrite. Plants, however, often suffer when salt is added. You may not have an issue since Java Ferns are pretty tough plants.

To avoid problems with toxins in the future, monitor your ammonia and nitrite levels regularly and invest a few dollars in a pH test kit. The toxicity of ammonia is directly affected by the water's pH levels. Ammonia is less toxic in acidic water (pH below 7.0) and becomes extremely toxic in basic water (pH above 7.0). Keep the water clean by changing it before toxins present register on the test kit. This could mean up to twice per week in a small half gallon bowl. Also, slow the rate in which ammonia is produced by feeding small quantities of food, removing uneaten food and fish poo and by snipping any dead or dying plant leaves. Basically, remove anything that can decompose as soon as you're able. Healthy plants work to counter toxins and are helpful.

Your fish may never fully recover if the damage was severe but keeping your water clean will help to keep him healthy and live a longer life.

Glossary: Labyrinth Fish

Me and Dad
Originally uploaded by Mean and Pinchy.

Paradisefish, like Bettas, have a labyrinth organ used to breathe from the atmosphere.



As I mentioned in a previous post I am going to integrate glossary terms with book, web forum and equipment reviews to supplement the usual Q&A on the Blog. Since this is primarily a Betta splendens Blog, I thought our first glossary term should directly relate to them. One of the major factors that make Bettas so desirable is their ability to be housed in smaller bowls without a filtration or aeration system. This is possible because they don't require oxygen rich water to survive. They have the remarkable ability to surface for air. Of course this doesn't mean we don't have to take care of their water. Monitoring water quality becomes even more important because of their simple bowl set-ups. With that said, let's discuss today's term, labyrinth fish.

Labyrinth Fish: (LAB-uh-rinth fish)

Labyrinth fish are fish that have a special lung-like breathing organ called a labyrinth organ, which allows them to take air right out of the atmosphere when they surface. This organ is located just above the gills and is made up of tiny folded bones that somewhat resemble a maze or labyrinth. These tiny bony plates contain blood vessels where the exchange of gasses occur when the fish takes a breath. This ability to pull oxygen right from the atmosphere is especially useful in slow moving or stagnant water where dissolved oxygen levels are very low such as ponds and rice paddies. It even means that some species of fish can actually exit the water, cross land and enter a new body of water without running out of oxygen. Fish who have this organ use it as a supplemental breathing apparatus and still have gills but will continue to surface for air regardless of oxygen levels in the water. There are many species of labyrinth fish that have been discovered but the most common include species of bettas, gouramis and paradise fish.

Have more questions about Labyrinth fish? Post them below in the comments section.

Bettas Fins are Melting Away

Q: TT wrote,

My bettas fins look like they are melting away. They started to fall off a couple of days ago and then this morning they looked even worse. He isn't swimming much. I don't understand what is happening and I can't find the fin pieces anywhere in the bowl. I am really worried that he won't be able to swim soon.

A: If his fins are falling off suddenly and in large chunks over several days then it sounds like he could have severe fin rot, which is a common bacterial infection as opposed to an injury where the fin is torn [from another fish or by snagging on something]. Fin rot is usually the direct result of poor water quality. In an unfiltered bowl, toxins like ammonia and nitrite can build very quickly. These compounds are the result of fish waste and decaying food or plant matter. To keep Bettas healthy, you don't want any ammonia or nitrite in the water at all. The only way to keep it in check is to do frequent full water changes before any dangerous toxins have a chance to build. I suggest cleaning all the water out of your bowl and replacing it with fresh, conditioned water that matches the old water temperature as closely as possible (with in a Fahrenheit degree or two). The smaller the bowl, the more frequently you will need to change the water. Consider purchasing an ammonia test kit to help you keep an eye on things. If you see any ammonia registering on the test then you need to do more water changes. Remember, ammonia is so toxic that even as little as .25 ppm (parts per million) can leave lasting effects.

To keep ammonia at bay, clean the tank often and remove any uneaten food or decaying plant mater as soon as possible. Try not to overfeed your betta.

If the fin rot is severe, more then half the fin is missing, you may need to turn to an antibiotic like Minocycline or Kanamicyn. I like to use Mardel's Maracyn-Two. Be careful to follow the directions on the package closely. When the fin rot has subsided, clean water and vigilance will help the fins regenerate. Bettafix or half-strength Melafix may also be useful to help fins regenerate after the antibiotic treatment is over, though I don't recommend them for the initial treatment because their antibiotic properties aren't that great. As an anticeptic, they work pretty well.

To learn more about treating Bettas with Fin Rot visit the Fin Loss & Fin Rot page at Nippyfish.net.

Betta Loses Appetite

Firefly's Rays
Originally uploaded by ballookey.

Q: CWR wrote,

I am really hoping that you can help me. My betta fish, Pete, is on the bottom of the tank. He doesn't come up to eat only for air. I am really worried about him. Is there anything I can do? Please let me know. I would really appreciate it and so would he.

A: I’m sorry to hear that your betta isn’t feeling well. There are a lot of things that can lead to the sluggishness and loss of appetite you are describing and most of them are caused by problems with water quality or temperature, or both. Since I don’t know anything about your aquarium set up or cleaning regimen I will just over the basics.

First and most importantly, bettas need clean water free from toxins like ammonia and nitrite which are produced from fish waste and decaying material. In a small tank without a filter or a new set up these toxins can build quickly and need to be monitored and controlled with lots of water changes. In an established tank with a filter helpful bacteria grow and breakdown the waste. We refer to tanks that have established these helpful bacteria as “cycled” meaning the nitrogen cycle has occurred there. I’m telling you this because fish kept in uncycled tanks have a far greater change of developing water quality induced illnesses.

For right now, the best information we could learn is the water parameters of your tank. These parameters include ammonia levels, nitrite and nitrate levels, pH, kh and gh, (KH and GH being less important) and temperature. You can either buy these test kits or bring a cup full of your tank water to a fish store like PetCo or PetSmart where they will test it for free to help you determine the problem. The employees there don’t always know what they’re doing so feel free to write down the results and email them back to me.

If you can find these out we may be able to figure out what is stressing your betta.

Another cause of sluggishness is water temperature. Bettas are truly tropical fish and really don’t do well in room temperature water. They really need a heated aquarium kept at a stable temperature between 78 – 80F. If your tank is unheated, I suggest finding a warm and most importantly, steady (temperature) area around the house to keep his tank. Some people find that on top of the refrigerator works well but if you are keeping your fish in a large tank that may prove difficult.

Without more information it’s really difficult to diagnose your fish but
I do suggest looking him over carefully for specific signs of disease. These may include, fuzzy white growths on the body, fins or mouth, deteriorating fins, blackened or bloody fin tips, redness under the scales, small white or rust colored spots, clear or white stringy poo, open soars or wounds or anything else atypical.

If you can, tell me more about your water and care and I can see if we can figure it out. Here’s a list of questions that would be really helpful to know…

How long have you had the betta?
What is the ammonia level? Nitrite, nitrate, pH, kh, gh levels?
What is the temperature?
What size is the tank? Is there a filter?
How long has the fish lived there?
Are there other tank mates? If yes, what kind and how long have they lived there?
How often do you clean the water? How much water do you replace at a time?
What do you add to the tank water? Include any and all conditioners and medications.
How much do you feed your fish? What kind of food and how often are you feeding?
Any other info you think might be helpful?

I know this seems like a lot but diagnosing a fish is basically the same as a human or other pet so a lot of questions are necessary.

Aquamaniacs.net: A Web Forum Review

Aquamaniacs.net is an online community dedicated to the art of fishkeeping.

I choose to do my first web forum review on Aquamaniacs because they have been a tremendous help to me throughout my own adventures with aquaria. These folks get top marks for being knowledgeable in all areas of the hobby as well as providing a fun and friendly atmosphere, lightning fast response times and an intuitive and organized forum layout.

The forum is large with over 2,900 members at the time of this review and more then 93,000 posts that are easily searchable by keyword or author. Its members are loyal and many have remained active since before I joined in 2003. The forum welcomes all levels of fish enthusiasts and no one is ever made to feel badly because of a lack of experience. I believe a sense of welcome and a friendly atmosphere are a major factor when it comes to keeping folks coming back for more. I have joined dozens of forums and have left many too because the atmosphere was unwelcoming. CT, the site's administrator, is a no-nonsense fellow that has set the rules and isn't afraid to enforce them. He frequently contributes to the topic at hand but will quickly stomp out flamers or anyone whose actions aren't in the best interest of the forum. His leadership is appreciated by the members and is a substantial factor in the success of the forum overall. Annoying trolls and spammers are non-existent. The forum moderators are brilliantly skilled in aquaria and equally so in diplomacy keeping the discussions amiable and on topic.

Speaking of topics, here is sampling of many but not all of the topics covered and quite active on Aquamaniacs.


Various Fish Forums including:

Bettas (impressive)

Goldfish

Cichlids

Livebearers

Catfish

Frogs

Invertebrates

Oddities

Aquatic Gardening


Some general topics include:

General Aquaria (the most popular forum)

Help! Emergency!!

Live Food

DIY projects

The Trading Post (trading fish & aquarium supplies)

Fun & Games

Picture Post


The advice Aquamaniacs offers is sensible and responsible, they always remain conscious of animal welfare and they aren't afraid to adapt to a constantly changing hobby. They are up to date on new medication techniques, popular species and the latest and greatest in aquarium equipment. This ability to morph with the times is where many other forums fall short. All too often people fall into the frame of mind of what was 20 years ago must still be. Truth be told, the hobby changes on an almost daily basis. Recognizing this in Aquamaniacs was a motivating factor for me in creating Nippyfish.net: A site for the modern Betta enthusiast.

The most impressive aspect of Aquamaniacs is their ability to offer a helping hand when a crisis occurs. Whether you have a really sick fish or your tank has acquired some mystery algae, this forum is seriously quick on the reply. To expedite the process of helping people with emergencies they have created the Help! Emergency!! forum especially for the topic. There you will find a sticky entitled, How to Get Fish Help Fast. Within that sticky is a questionnaire of important and pertinent queries that I still use today to diagnose my own fish problems. Fill out the help text within your post and you are well on your way.

This web forum has an amazing array of things to do. You can show off your fish photos, make equipment trades with other members, talk in real time in the chat room, play a word association game in the game room or even weigh in on politics in the Off Topic forum on those days when you have actually exhausted yourself in fish-speak. If they fall short anywhere, it would be in rare species and breeding information. They are really geared toward people who keep the more common species as pets and it can be hard to get questions answered about genetics and related topics. Still, this forum is not to be missed.

Aquamaniacs.net is your standard phpBB with lots of personal customizations and is free to register.

Betta Constantly Flaring in New Tank

Dodie
Originally uploaded by Mean and Pinchy.

Q: PZ Wrote,

We recently moved our betta to a cycled, planted, 10-gallon tank with a filter and a heater. He is acting VERY oddly, now that he is in the tank. He hangs out right next to the filter, flaring and puffing out his cheeks, and bumping the glass with his nose. I thought the flow of the filter might be bothering him, so I shut it off. He is still doing it though. When I remove the filter he stops.

Could he be mistaking the filter for another Betta?

A: The behavior you are describing sounds very much like a male Betta’s typical response to another male Betta or in this case, his reflection. Your tank’s filter is probably casting a shadow or blocking glare so that he is able to see himself in the reflection of the glass near the filter. This type of behavior is harmless and the frequency in which he is flaring should become less in a few days. If it remains a problem, you can place some plants (real or silk) around the filter to break up the sight lines. Go ahead and turn the filter back on and give him a little time to get used to the new tank and its reflections.

Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants by Peter Hiscock

Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants
Author: Peter Hiscock
Publisher: Barrons Educaitonal Series 2003
Pages: 205

This is one of my favorite aquarium books. It contains tons of useful information about aquarium plants and aquascaping while remaining focused and aimed at the average hobbyist. The book is divided into two sections. The Practical Section focuses on the basic biological science where Hiscock centers on general care, equipment, substrate, lighting and nutrients among other things. I was especially pleased to see discussions of the nitrogen cycle and descriptions of the basic water parameters like pH and hardness. The author writes clearly and is easily understood by even the most novice aquarist. Hiscock also includes some relevant information about fish and supplies some example aquascapes, which may prove useful for those hobbyists less in touch with their creative side.

The Plant Profiles make up the second half of the book and is dedicated to page after glossy page of individual species laid out by type and names, both common and scientific. While there are thousands of aquarium plants available to hobbyists, Hiscock focuses only on those that most readily available. Though not truly an encyclopedia's worth of information, the list is still lengthy and relevant. The layout and photography are beautiful and a great deal of helpful information is supplied including a description of the plant, it's lighting needs, ideal temperature, growth rate, propagation methods and recommended location in the aquarium as well as an overall difficulty rating. The geographical origins of each plant are also defined, which is very useful for people interested in creating a biotope aquarium.

I highly recommend this book to anyone keeping or interested in a natural aquarium and while The Encyclopedia of Aquarium Plants is aimed at the beginner to intermediate level aquascaper I think even more advanced plant enthusiasts will find something useful here.

If you are familiar with this book I encourage you to add your own thoughts in the comments section.