Upgrading Your Betta Bowl

Jonah, originally uploaded by Jon & Brigid.

Q: JL wrote,

I have a 10 gl tank that I started in December 2006. I purchased a goldfish and 2 snails. After about a month the goldfish died and I have had the 2 snails in there since. I change the water partially weekly (can you recommend a good conditioner for tap water? I have been using distilled water) and I change the filter carbon monthly. Also, how often should I vaccuum the stones?

Now my question is regarding a betta. I have had a betta (his name is Jose) since August 2006. I have him in a bowl with an LED light. He is absolutely gorgeous and I want to add him to the 10 gallon tank with the snails, but I am afraid to. I just can't imagine how beautiful he would be in there, but I am so scared I am not going to do something right and it's going to kill him.

I have been checking the tank with test strips and everything seems to be ok, but I wonder if you can recommend a good test strip. The strips I am using are color coded and really don't give me any number readings. I think that number readings would help me out.

I have a very strong Whisper filter and an air stone strip across the back of the tank, but the filter is so strong, I don't want the betta to eventually get "sucked" into the slotted openings. Any reccomendations on a less agressive filter?

I would love to get Jose in the 10 gal as I think it would benefit him greatly from being in the bowl and I am sure I would find him keeping me in awe with his beautiful colors and fins.

Thank you so much for any help.

A: Thanks for writing in. I will try and answer your questions in the order you wrote them.

Tap water is a good way to turn instead of continuing to use the distilled water you were using. Distilled water, in addition to being expensive lacks any dissolved minerals like calcium, which are important to fish and critical to snails. Without a good source of calcium your snails won't be able to maintain good health and strong shells. There are several good water conditioners widely available. I like to use Kordon's AmQuel+ and NovAqua (meant to be used together). They not only neutralize chlorine and chloramines but they bind toxic ammonia, which can be an asset in uncycled tanks. For well established tanks I also like Prime made by Seachem. In a tank with just snails you can vacuum the stones every other week but should you add fish, I recommend increasing your vacuuming to every week. If your tank is cycled you can use your nitrate test to help you gauge how often you need to vacuum. When a lot of organic waste is present, nitrate levels will begin to rise into higher levels. If they are over 40 ppm you may want to increase the frequency of your gravel vacuuming. I like to aim for under 20 ppm. Larger water changes can help keep them down in addition to regular vacuuming.

Adding Jose to your 10 gallon is a great idea. To make it a safe transition you will want to acclimate him slowly. Test both his tank water and the new tank's water to be sure they are relatively close in parameters. To read more on the acclimation process visit this page on the Nippyfish website; Acclimating Your New Betta. Remember that unlike goldfish, bettas are tropical and will need warm water heated to a stable 78*F +/-. [25.5*C] I recommend heating the water very slowly over several days before adding Jose, being sure the snails are safely adjusting and the heater is stable.

Test strips aren't a bad way to get started with water testing. The brand I used when first starting out was Mardel's 5 in 1 dip stick test strips. They are an ok way to begin with testing but a separate ammonia test kit is still needed. A more accurate set of kits are the reagent based dropper/test tube kits. I like the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals brand for freshwater tanks. They still aren't highly accurate but are close enough for the home aquarium.

If your filter is designed for a 10 gallon then it will likely be ok for your Betta. Some of the Whisper models have adjustable flow control. It wouldn't hurt to check yours. One thing about having a current is your betta won't likely build a bubble nest. It's not necessary, but if you'd like to see one or are still concerned about the current you may want to consider an under gravel filter or a sponge filter, both of which are great for betta tanks.

Thanks again for writing in. I'm sure Jose is going to love his new larger digs.

Spring Cleaning: The Feng Shui Aquarium

Black Velvet in motion, originally uploaded by RyanThomas.

HG wrote,

I have a black betta fish that is living in a feng shui glass container
with bamboo and rocks. How would I go about cleaning the glass
container?

A: I'm not really well versed in feng shui but I can tell you that spring is good time for cleaning house and bringing in positive energy and it's a great time to set up an aquarium or do an overhaul on an existing aquarium. For me personally, I do some pruning of my aquatic plants, buy new varieties and go to town aquascaping. It's also a good time to take apart filters for a good cleaning. Don't forget those impeller blades and always be sure the system is unplugged before disassembling.

Aquarium glass is easier to clean than acrylic and can be scraped clean with an algae scraper from your local fish store or a razor blade, which I find to be most effective. Fully cycled tanks shouldn't be completely broken down as you may loose your biological filtration. Instead, just do a good gravel siphoning and clean the algae from the glass. A larger 50% to 75% water change may help get your nitrates back on track if they have been slowly creeping up over the winter. You can feng shui your aquarium gravel with a change in color or pebble size but don't remove all of the old substrate as it holds lots of beneficial bacteria. Acrylic aquariums can be cleaned with a plastic scraper or aquarium cleaning sponge but do be mindful of scratching.

An small uncycled tank can be completely cleaned since nitrifying bacteria haven't had the chance to establish themselves. You can rinse gravel in hot water and wash out the tank using a 10:1 water/bleach solution. Hand or dish soap can leave a residue that is toxic to fish and plants. Never use household cleansers in the tank. After cleaning with bleach rinse extremely well. When you think you're finished rinsing... rinse a few more times. Allow the tank to dry completely before refilling with water and add a little dechlorinator for good measure if you weren't already. Commercial window cleaner can usually be used safely on the exterior tank glass but a better alternative is a 50/50 water/vinegar solution. Vinegar is better for the environment as a whole and is less likely to harm fish if a little sprits gets near the water. It's also safer for you, your children and your pets.

Aquarium Spring Cleaning ideas:

- Vacuum or wash aquarium gravel
- Scrape clean aquarium glass
- Disassemble and clean filters
- Replace warn air stones and tubing
- Replace all fluorescent bulbs
- Prune old aquarium plants
- Order new aquarium plants. I like Aquariumplants.com
- Change around décor
- Wash exterior tank windows with vinegar
- Test your aquarium's water parameters
- Test your tap water's parameters (It usually changes in the spring)

From a feng shui standpoint, water and fish increase chi in the home and bring good lucky when placed properly. They are often used to stimulate an influx of money and general wealth and are believed to lead to financial success. A single black fish in an aquarium is said to absorb negative energy and keep it away from the occupants of the home. Often many colorful fish (usually gold or orange) are kept along with the black one. This, of course, is only lucky for the fish if they are compatible and in a large enough aquarium. ;-)

Good luck with your Betta and may you enjoy the rewards of a clean tank and good energy.

Rod Bacterium & Secondary Infections

Niles, originally uploaded by SecretAgent99.

Q: LP wrote,

[I] just discovered your site and blog. So well done and informative. Thank you for your interest and time in sharing with others. I understand you probably have tons of ??? sent your way so I understand if you cannot answer here or on your blog. My 5 yr old son has a Betta for a year in an unfiltered 2.5 gallon tank with a live plant, snail and weekly water changes. Happy, lively fish until we noticed tiny fin on top of body was white and a bit fuzzy - more white than fuzzy. This was about 4 weeks ago.

1. I did a 75% water change and found some yukky debris under the plant and stones and realized his water was not as clean as I thought and assume his illness was brought about by the bad water.

2. Started doing water changes every 3rd day and he seemed to be okay but still white stuff.

3. Treated with Tetracycline (fish store guy recommeneded) according to directions for 2.5 gallon tank. White stuff seemed improved.

4. Continued frequent water changes and treated 1 more time the following week.

(Sadly, didn't know to take out snail and now he looks really bad. I think he's dying and I don't kmow how to help him. Live and leaarn.)

5. Went away this weekend and returned to find Betta on his side. Can't get down to the bottom of tank. (swim bladder now affected???) and has a shadow of white under his skin beneath fiin area as if the problem is spreading under his skin or maybe it's on surface and it just looks underneath.

He's eating and swimming but I fear he's going to die if this keeps spreading. Short of attempting surgery which I've read about and am not at all comfortable trying, do you think I should treat the water again according to instructions. In other words, how many times should I repeat the med? I changed the water again yesterday.

Any advice is appreciated and if Bozyie makes it, we'll be thrilled. If not, I've learned so much from your site and will be back for more ideas on how to set up a little more sophisticated aquarium for my little boy. We don't have much space for a big tank with lots of filtration gadgets but I've seen some nice smallish set ups on your blog.

A: I will help as best I can but it can be difficult to understand exactly what is happening to your fish. It sounds like some sort of infection, possibly bacterial. Your betta may have been infected with some sort of rod bacterium like Flavobacterium columnare or something similar. These are a gram-negative bacterium and would best be treated with an antibiotic like minocycline. The tetracycline may have helped with a secondary infection (possibly gram-positive) but wasn't effective against the entire problem. It's also possible that the infection was resistant to the tetracycline. A third possibility is that a second course of the antibiotic was needed to be totally effective. If you feel the tetracycline was effective then you may want to continue a second course. If you're not sure you could do a combination treatment of gram-negative and gram-positive treating antibiotics like a combination of Mardel's Maracyn and Maracyn-Two or an equivalent depending on where you live.

Whenever treating sick fish it is best to remove them from the community tank and to treat them in a hospital tank. This keeps other fish (or snails in your case) safe from the effects of harsh medication. It will also ensure your biological filtration (helpful bacteria) aren't effected if your tank is cycled. I hope your snail was able to recover. Fortunately, antibiotics are less dangerous to snails then many other medications like anti-parasitics. Still, they can be hard on any aquatic animal.

The swim bladder problem may be a subsequent symptom of an internal secondary infection. If you can get your antibiotics in food form (some fish stores carry it) then you will have a head start treating any internal infections. Antibiotics that you add to the water often work well with external infections but aren't always as effective inside the fish.

Keep up with your water changes but more importantly, be sure to follow the directions closely on the medication package. Once he recovers, those water changes will be important for maintaining good health.

I hope your little guy bounces back and is exploring and blowing bubble nests again soon.

How to Feed Frozen Fish Foods

Blush, originally uploaded by Little Hound Dog.

LD wrote:

OK, if you buy a female w/ no intent to breed her, what happens to the eggs? Does she spawn them w/ out a male and they just don't get fertilized, or does she re-absorb them?

Also, frozen food has us a bit stumped. It comes in little cubes, do you
feed it frozen? Do you let one cube thaw and feed from that. Do you
refrigerate it?

I know, silly questions, but I have to know and can't seem to find the
info anywhere else, I want to be a good betta mommy!

A: As for females' eggs. Without a male present females will just reabsorb the eggs, usually without incident.

I'm glad you're asking about frozen foods. These are great questions that stump a lot of hobbyists. Frozen foods come in either blocks or a flat pack. Flat packs are more of a frozen wafer then a block and offer smaller portions. Either is fine. People feed blocks to their fish in a variety of ways depending on the size and the number of fish they have to feed.

For smaller fish like bettas, breaking up the block is usually the first step. If you are feeding a lot of fish you may use a whole block and can start by defrosting it. To defrost a frozen block of food I add it to a small plastic baggy, close it up and just run it under warm tap water until it melts. Then I drop portions into several aquariums using either aquarium forceps, a toothpick or an eyedropper. Once frozen food had defrosted it becomes susceptible to bacteria and shouldn't be refrozen. If you have any extra you can toss it in the fridge and use it the next day or two but then should throw it away if you don't use it up.

A second option, which I am using now that I have reduced the amount of aquariums at home, is to again add a block of frozen food to a sandwich bag, wrap it up in a towel and whale on it with a hammer until it is finely crushed. Ok, ok, I'm not exactly whaling on it, but it sounds more fun to say it that way. It actually breaks up with surprisingly little force. Then you can take out the the quantity you need and return the rest of the crushed frozen food to the freezer. The crushed bits that you intend to use can either be defrosted as mentioned above or added directly to the tank frozen. Because the pieces are so small the tank water will defrost them very quickly and they will begin to sink within a minute or so.

Those are the methods I use but I'm sure others will have suggestions as well. There isn't any one way that is best.

Good luck experimenting with frozen fish foods. I'm sure your betta will LOVE it.

A note to the readers: Let us know how YOU feed frozen foods to your betta. We'd love to hear it.

First Betta: Size, Lighting, Water Changes & Other Great Questions

betta3, originally uploaded by girlpirate.

Q: CBN wrote:

Hey Christie!

Great site. I've enjoyed reading your site and Blog. I'm a new enthusiast from Colombia, and wanted your advice on my new baby, Titan!. Despite all the ideal recommendations, I've made my adoption and aquarium the way I wanted it, trying to make it ideal, but not quite, since I don't have ALL the time in the world, but wanted a betta to care for and for company.

Ok, I bought Titan yesterday, bought the one I loved and also, that appeared well cared, it was hanging in a great large tank and by himself. He was very active, so I assumed this meant healthiness, as I've read. I bought a circular bowl, of about 1.4-1.5 gallon (I know, not the ideal) capacity (I'm attaching pictures for you to have a better idea). I also asked them to give me some of their water, since it had been already treated, etc. So far, everything seems great and he seems to be having fun at his new home, eats well, although he lets the food pellets to fall to the bottom, then he goes and fetch's it, spits it out to soften it (i guess), then he eats it again. He swims and maintains very active all day long. The current tank temperature is a bit low though, ranging from 21-22 degrees C, so I'm gonna get a mini heater soon, so I can achieve 24-27. I wanted your advice on my current setup and some questions I have.

- First, he seems small (4 cm maybe or less), I guess he's just some weeks old (pictures attached), so this is better, right? more life and company if kept right?

- He surfaces pretty often for air, is this normal? how often do they do it? Sometimes he's at the bottom and rises very fast, heh, like a torpedo for air!

- Do they need lamp light or something? would it be better for them?

- I didn't cycle the tank, seemed very long of a process and don't have the time right now, but I did put in all the conditioners and biological aquarium supplement in the water; would this be ok?

- How often should I change the water and total or partial? I've read tons of tips, but Im kinda confused since they vary, could you recommend some custom tips for my case? (don't have an amonia kit yet)

- pH seems perfect, measure it daily, it's about 7.0 right now.

Last, but not least, awesome site and information. Thanks for your site, your time and consideration.

A: First, bettas that are still small when you buy them at the store are usually just young. He may only be 3 or 4 months old. It's possible he could be stunted or naturally small but it's more likely that he is just young. You should begin to notice him bulking up over the next couple of months.

Bettas do surface pretty frequently for air. Because they rely primarily on their labyrinth organ you may find them surfacing several times per minute though the frequency they surface can vary based on a variety of factors. Once his water is heated you may notice him surfacing even more frequently due to a faster metabolism and lower dissolved oxygen levels in the water.

Bettas do live according to a natural light cycle. They are awake when it is light and sleep when it is dark. As long as they are getting ambient light they don't require a lamp. If you do prefer to add a lamp, try to keep it on for a natural period of time (8 - 12 hours). Extremely extended periods of light (or dark) may create stress.

Cycling a tank is not required but does create a safer and more stable environment for the fish and will save you time and money. If you choose to maintain an uncycled tank it will require greater diligence, frequent water testing and regular 100% water changes before any dangerous toxins have the chance to accumulate.

There is no hard an fast rule to determine how frequently you have to change YOUR betta's water but here is a link to an article that will help you plan better. There are several things to consider including the size of the tank, the bioload, feeding, etc. Water Changes: Frequency Determining the frequency is custom for every case and water changes may vary from tank to tank. Take a look at the article and you should be able to determine exactly how often you need to clean Titan's aquarium. You will need that ammonia kit as soon as possible.

I agree your pH is perfect. More important then a neutral pH is a stable pH. A pH that changes rapidly can be very dangerous. As long as yours isn't changing much, it should be fine.

Common Signs of Stress in Betta Fish

full glory 2, originally uploaded by littlerottenrobin.

Q: G wrote,

[I] found your web site to be most informative and that is why I am contacting you.

Attached please find a picture of sparky, my 8 year old helped to name it.

Here is the set up that I have in place right now. It is a 2 gallon hex tank and I populated it with plastic plants and a couple of caves which he likes. I have an under the gravel filtration system and a good layer of gravel to ensure good filtering.

I use aqua plus and cycle in the water and I am changing it once a week. He seems happy, but could you please explain what signs of stress would be as I am not sure what to look for. As I said he seems happy and comfortable. I put a bent straw sealed at both ends, (no chemicals used) to create a boom on the surface of the tank to deflect air bubbles coming from the filter so he could have a clear space to come up and breath and to eat food. Seems to work quite well.

Another question is how can you tell if the current is effecting him and if he is struggling? Seems ok but you never know.

Food wise I am using freeze dried blood worms. Is there any other type of food that I should be supplementing him with? I do not have a heater for this small tank as the store where I purchased it did not have a small heater for the tank. Is there anything available on line? Is there alternatives?

I know that Betta's do better in bigger tanks but this was a compromise that allowed me to purchase the little guy. I am happy to provide him a home as the store where I bought him kept him in a small cup with water in it that was only half full, they said it was natural for the Betta. I would like to let everyone know that the total set up cost of this tank and for the little guy was around $100.00, but the continuing cost look to be low and requiring more TLC then money. Spend a little bit of money for your fish to make his life better.

A: Hello and thanks for writing in and showing a photo of Sparky, who is just adorable. I'd be happy to go over some common signs of stress but first I will start with good signs of a healthy Betta.

Signs of Good Health

- Bright coloration
- Swimming actively and easily
- Flaring
- Building a bubble nest
- Strong appetite
- Greeting human at the glass
- Full finnage
- Good body shape (no bumps, bloating, missing scales)
- Smooth, clean gills
- Dark and clear eyes

Signs of Poor Health

- Dull coloration or gray color
- Sluggishness or Lethargy
- Loss of appetite, disinterest in food
- Uninterested in surroundings
- Clamped finnage, torn, shredded or missing fins
- Bloating, weight loss, bumps, missing scales, open wounds, red streaks
- Red or swollen gills
- Cloudy, protruding or sunken eyes

Of course, this isn't a complete list but it covers the basics. I should also mention that any one little thing isn't a cause for panic. For instance, if your betta won't build a bubble nest, this doesn't necessarily mean he's stressed. More than any one particular signal, you really want to observe for drastic changes in behavior. For instance, If your betta actively approaches the surface at feeding time, has bright coloration and frequently explores his tank and then you suddenly notice he has no interest in food, appears pale and hides in the back, then you might want to start looking for stressors.

As for current, a struggling betta is fairly obvious. Since they aren't strong swimmers a strong current will literally push him aside. In a large enough tank this isn't generally a big deal because he can swim in areas where the current is less and venture into the current when he wants. If the current is overcoming the entire tank then he wont be able to swim much at all and will be forced to cower or take shelter. If he is able to explore his tank, then the current is probably fine.

To answer your question about freeze-dried blood worms, I think they are an excellent food for bettas but I do recommend offering a variety of other foods as well. Just blood worms alone are not a complete and balanced diet. You could supplement his diet with betta pellets or a variety of other foods like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, beef heart, daphnia, live black worms or live white worms among other things. To learn more about feeding bettas and the types of foods available visit Nippyfish Feeding

There are also several heaters available for smaller betta tanks. I recommend a small 7 watt heater for a 2 gallon tank. I really like Drs. Foster & Smith for aquarium supplies. You can order from their catalog or from their online store.

Thanks for your idea of using the straw as a boom. That's really inexpensive and easy way to cut the current and I think it will really help our readers. I hope I answered all your questions and good luck with Sparky!

Actual photo of Sparky by the original emailer.

Dangers of Over Salting a Freshwater Aquarium

Betta..., originally uploaded by Fabiz Rabbit©.

Q: CLP wrote,

I got my male betta - Will on November 5th, so he's still young. He is in a 2 1/2 gallon tank, heated to 76 degrees. I do weekly water changes of 25% and the pH is at 7.0. My betta has started having fin rot. I went to a fish store, which said the aquarium salt would help him. I've been using the aquarium salt for about month, approximately when the fish rot started.

The fin rot, a small amount on one fin - had been going away over this time. He had been active the whole time and swam around a lot. Last Saturday afternoon 3/3, I did my regular water change of 25% of the tank- and added 1/2 teaspoon of salt into the entire aquarium, not the water I was adding. This was definitely my mistake. I do not know exactly how much salt was in the aquarium - but I think it had 2 teaspoons at least over the course of a month.

Later that afternoon he was moving around more slowly and at the evening he was laying at the bottom and breathing heavily. I did a water change - 25% of the tank and the next morning he was not moving much, and still mostly lay at the bottom of the tank. I changed the water again - this time 30%. He swam around a bit more and definitely there was improvement in the afternoon. Yet he still had trouble breathing and still stayed resting a decent amount of time. I put air bubbles on, which I only used in the past when I changed the water. It's been on all week since Sunday 3/4.

I also put the filter on, which I only used in the past during a water change. This has also been on all week - since Sunday 3/4.

On Wednesday, I did a 25% water change and for a while he was resting at the bottom and then started to swim around more. The last several days, including today Saturday - he swims around when I feed him (1 pellet in the morning and afternoon - there is never any food left over in the tank - he does have a good appetite) and he swims around when I come over to his aquarium, yet he does rest a lot. He also is breathing heavily after swimming for 1-2 minutes and rests.

I wanted to know what long term affects and damage has the salt done to him? He swims more in a jagged path instead of a long flowing swim around the tank. He also used to blow lots of air bubbles and he has stopped, as he has trouble staying at the top of the aquarium for more than 30 seconds to a minute. Will he get back to normal if he continues to improve over the next few weeks, or has the salt done permanent damage to him? Also, is he in pain as I see him having trouble breathing and swimming in jagged path?

A: Thanks for writing in. This is an interesting question you have asked about the long-term effects of too much aquarium salt in a freshwater tank. I'm not entirely sure, as no studies, which I know of, have been done. I'd imagine it can put added stress on some of the internal organs and possibly cause some gill damage but am not sure of anything more specifically. I have, however, posed the question to some other aquarists and will follow up when I hear back.

I think the partial water changes you have done to rectify the situation were a good idea and I suggest continuing to do a couple more larger water changes to make sure most of the salt is gone. There was one additional thing I noticed in your email regarding your tank's biological cycle, which could be adding to your betta's stress.

You mentioned doing partial 25% water changes regularly and only running the filter during cleanings. When you do 25% water changes you are only removing 25% of the toxins like ammonia and nitrite. In a cycled tank these partial water changes are fine because you are growing beneficial bacteria in your filter media and gravel that will consume these toxins. If you don't have the filter running, however, these bacterial colonies tend to die off and the toxins are able to build because there is nothing to consume them. It's best to either cycle the tank and keep the filter on at all times, doing partial water changes or to remove the filter and do complete 100% water changes to avoid toxicity. You may want to test your water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to make sure their levels are safe. The presence of ammonia or nitrite also cause the gasping you described.

Also, you may want to consider feeding him a little more. Overfeeding can cause problems with bettas but 2 pellets a day is still quite sparse. You can at least double that, though if he isn't looking thin he may be ok. It's totally your call. I just wanted to mention it.

As soon as I find more information on the effects of salt poisoning, I will let you know. I'm really happy to hear that he's doing better and I hope he continues to improve.


UPDATE:
I wasn't able to find a lot of information on the effects of oversalting the water in a freshwater tank but can add that too much salt may lead to an overactive slime coat and in severe cases can lead to dehydration. Remember, through osmosis, a feshwater fish will loose water when placed in a tank with too much salt. Because the kidneys are responsible for maintaining the proper salt content in the blood, I suppose it's possible that they could be effected by over salting, though I wasn't able to confirm this. Hope this is helpful. If I find anymore info I will post additional followups.

How Many Days Can Bettas Go Without Food?

Calendar Dates, originally uploaded by Mr.Lee2007.

Q: Anon wrote,

I have a bit of an unrelated question. I was wondering how long can a betta go without being fed? I am a student and am planning to travel home for spring break. I take the fish home on longer vacations but was wondering if it would be possible to leave them for a week? My two bettas are both in heated 2.5 gallon tanks. I could take them with me, but I always find they that they get stressed out by the trip and I can't get anyone to come in to feed them. Thank you!

A. Determining how long to leave your betta without food is a bit of an exercise in evaluating the cercumstances. A betta may survive up to two weeks without food before it dies from the lack of nutrition. This, of course, means he has used up all his reserves and has gone into starvation mode some time prior to succumbing. Starvation is a process. A few days will likely not affect the fish at all but eventually the body will begin to suffer the effects of stress, which will only worsen as he continues to live without food. The health of the fish comes into play too. A strong, well fed male in his prime may survive longer than a very young or old fish or one who has a weakened immune system due to illness or exposure to poor water qualtity.

All I can really offer is my own personal feelings on the subject but should make clear that others may hold a different opinion. For me personally, I have a four day rule. If I am gone less than four days then I don't bother finding someone to feed the fish. Inexperienced fish keepers tend to be a little heavy handed on the feedings and I generally perfer not to bother a friend when I am fairly sure the fish will be fine. If I am gone more than four days, then I train a trusted friend. Because I also have a cat, I retain the services of a professional pet sitter as well and I know, for a little extra money, I can have her feed my fish.

This past Christmas I went away for 5 days / 4 nights and pushed my no feed rule the extra day hoping all would be ok. Most of my fish did survive, some seeming none the worse for wear but I did loose an older male Dwarf Gourami (closely related to Bettas) and felt quite badly about it. I probably won't go 5 days again without feeding as I personally don't think it is humane.

For people with community tank set-ups, it is even more important to avoid long stretches without food. When you have an aquarium with several fish and one dies, the water quickly fouls rapidly increasing the danger level for the remaining fish. Once you loose one fish in community tank, you put the others at great risk. Also, if there is any sort of equipment malfuction (loss of power, etc) having someone checking in daily can mean avoiding serious losses.

***I should also make note that different species will react to starvation at a different rate.

2.5 MiniBow Aquarium Kit for Bettas

Q: LE wrote,

I recently bought a betta fish (a male, bought from WalMart) and he has been living in a huge vase (no plant) for the time being, I now need to get him a proper aquarium, and was hoping that you could help, I have my eye n this one here...

2.5 Mini Bow

but don’t know if it is the right kind (I know it needs a heater as well as testing strips) or if it is suitable. Any suggestions? Recommendations? Also what kind of disease preventives should I pick up? ick guard? Anti bacteria? Anti parasite? I was given my baby as a gift and was thoroughly unprepared for him. "I’m not about to go over the edge, I just like to look, that’s all."

A:The 2.5 Mini Bow is a great choice and is one of the most popular Betta aquarium kits available. I think your fish can do well in this tank. In addition to the tank, I recommend buying some food, a net, a thermometer and some water conditioner. The food and water conditioner that come with the kit come in such small quantities that you will need more very soon after purchase. As you mentioned, you will also need a mini tank heater. A 7.5-watt heater should work well for this small tank. You could probably go as large as a 25 watt heater turned down low as sometimes the 7.5 watts can be hard to find at stores. I recommend setting up the tank and heater and letting it run empty for a full day or two before adding the fish. This is so you can make sure everything is working properly, especially the heater. It can take a day or more to get that temperature correct and stable.

As for preventative medicine, I don't recommend adding any meds to the tank for preventative purposes as they can cause added stress that isn't necessary. However, if you want to have some on hand just in case he DOES get sick down the road, I suggest

- Gram negative antibiotic (Maracyn-Two is good)
- Gram positive antibiotic (Maracyn is good)
- Anti-parasite medication (I like Rid-Ich+)
- Aquarium salt (can come in handy from time to time)

To buy any more than that probably isn't necessary and even that list is really "just in case."

If you're buying the standard dip-stick tests I strongly suggest getting an ammonia test kit as well as ammonia isn't one of the basic tests on those kits. Having this test kit is probably more important than having all those meds I listed above.

Well, that's all I could think of. Here's a link to more info on setting up your Betta tank from the Nippyfish: A Betta Blog site.

Starting Out with Bettas

Good luck with your new tank.

Live Betta Foods

artemia_saline19, originally uploaded by Hopping rabbit.

***NOTICE***

Hey guys n' gals. Just wanted to let you all know that I was having some issues with access to my email last night so I haven't been able to read any emails from March 4th or 5th. Hopefully, it'll be back up and running tonight and I will try and get back to people. Thanks for your patience.


Q: T wrote,

Where can you buy "live" food? I keep reading that our pal Ruby needs a varied diet and that live food is preferred but where do I buy it and how do I store it and how long does it last? I am sorry to keep pestering you, but I am so interested in treating our little guy right.

A: You're not pestering at all. In fact you gave me the idea for Live Food Week. I'm going to see about putting together a post-per-day for a week each about a type of live food, how to culture/keep/grow it, etc. It's going to take a little time to put together so I will announce later when Live Food Week will actually occur. Thanks for the idea!

This, of course, leads to answering your question. There are a variety of live foods appropriate for Bettas but they don't need live food per se. The benefit to live food is that they are what Bettas eat naturally and the fish seem to love it. They also have a higher moisture content and appear to be easier to digest. Conversely, any one live food does not equal a balanced and nutritious diet. Betta pellets or flake food have been designed to contain all the nutrients a Betta needs but in order to achieve this balance a variety of live foods need to be fed regularly or in conjunction with other fish foods. Depending on the type of live food you are interested in, some are purchases at your local fish store (black worms, brine shrimp) some are purchased online or through other hobbyists and cultured at home (white worms) and yet others are harvested from your back yard (bloodworms).

To find out more on the Pros & Cons of fish foods, visit this former article from NABB. - Choosing Food for Bettas
Here's more on Betta feeding at Nippyfish.net - Feeding
Here's an article on Black worms from NABB - Black Worms: Better for Bettas?

Black worms are the easiest to find next to BBS (baby brine shrimp) and are commonly sold at Ma 'n Pa fish stores. Large chains don't tend to have them. I find it best to call ahead.

Here's a quick list of some Betta food options.

- Frozen or live bloodworms or bloodworms in gel
- Frozen or live brine shrimp or brine shrimp in gel
- Frozen or live daphnia
- Frozen glass worms
- Frozen beef heart (can be purchased at your supermarket or butcher)
- Frozen tubifex worms (live tubifex often carry parasites or bacteria and is better avoided)
- Frozen mysis shrimp
- Live white worms
- Live grindal worms
- Live flightless or wingless fruit flies
- Live black worms.

Check back for more information on Live Food Week. :)

The Nitrogen Cycle & Fishless Cycling Method

nitrogencycle, originally uploaded by J Wynia.

Play Podcast: The Nitrogen Cycle - LISTEN NOW
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What is tank cycling?

In an aquarium or fish bowl the fish give off waste, which over a short time breaks down into toxic ammonia. We all know that ammonia is quite dangerous even in small quantities so as aquarists we need to take steps to combat it. In a small Betta bowl that might mean making full 100% water changes every week but what if the tank were larger like 10 gallons or what if it were a body of water like a pond or lake? How do we contend with ammonia in a situation like that? Well, in nature nitrification occurs. This is a natural process where beneficial bacteria consume ammonia and intern creates water conditions safe for aquatic life. In our aquariums we have learned to encourage this bacteria growth and to monitor it so we can recreate a similar ecosystem safe for our fish.

The Old Way

The old way of doing this, and some people still use it, is to set up your tank and add some disposable fish that the aquarist doesn’t care about. For the process to work, ammonia levels first need to build to a level that is unsafe for fish. This is why inexpensive minnows or guppies are used typically. If the fish die during the process it’s no major financial loss to you.

These days’ aquarists are changing their old ways. We now know how to recreate the nitrogen cycle without using any live animals and can do it just as inexpensively without compromising the health or life of a single fish.

How the process works

The process begins with ammonia building in the tank. Through the old method, the fish would do their business in the water and that waste would breakdown becoming ammonia. Over the course of several days and weeks the ammonia levels would build. Living naturally in the water, on the tank décor, the substrate and filter media are small nitrifying bacteria called Nitrosomonas. These are the first bacteria we talk about in the nitrification process because they consume ammonia directly. In their small numbers they begin to consume the ammonia as it builds and as long as there is enough ammonia they will continue to reproduce to consume it almost as fast as it’s being created. In the first few weeks the ammonia is created quickly and the numbers of Nitrosomonas are growing…growing…growing. Eventually the bacteria will catch up to the ammonia and will consume as fast as it’s being created. For the first few weeks while you test your water you will see the ammonia levels rising and eventually reaching the point where they spike and then begin to fall as the bacteria consumes it.

These Nitrosomonas also give off a waste product. They expel nitrite. And you may know that nitrite is also a toxin very dangerous to your fish, thought not quite as much so as ammonia. As these Nitrosomonas reproduce, nitrite levels begin to rise until they too reach a level unsafe for your fish. Fortunately, nature has provided a second type of nitrifying bacteria called Nitrospira. Nitrospira consume nitrite. So as the nitrite levels rise the Nitrospira bacteria reproduce in order to consume it all. This second type of bacteria also, like the first, gives off a waste product called nitrate. Nitrate, unlike nitrite and ammonia is much less toxic to fish and can build to much higher levels before they become a problem. The only way to remove nitrate is to perform partial water changes. We usually do that by removing 20% each week and replacing it with clean conditioned tap water.

The New Fishless Method

The Fishless Cycling Method works exactly the same way as the original cycling method only no fish are used. Instead, we buy pure ammonia or ammonia diluted with water at our local grocery store and add it directly to the tank instead of adding fish. There are actually two types of ammonia; there is ammonia hydroxide, which is what you buy at the grocery store. It isn’t as great an option as ammonia chloride because it can affect the pH a little bit and it is also typically diluted with water but we often don’t know how much so how much we add is trial and error. Ammonia hydroxide, however, is very readily available and I have used it many times. Even though it’s not the first choice, it works well and easy to find.

What You’ll Need to Get Started:


- Tank
- Filter & Filter Media
- Air-stone
- Air-pump
- Reverse-flow Valve
- Tubing
- Substrate
- Pure Ammonia
- Eye Dropper
- Salicylate Ammonia Test Kit
- Nitrite Test Kit
- Nitrate Test Kit
- PH Test Kit
- Water Conditioner
- Pen & Paper



Optional

- Filter media or gravel from an established tank.

Part I: Tank Set-up

1. Rinse the substrate and add it to your empty tank. This substrate will house much of the beneficial bacteria that will live in your tank. A rougher substrate like sand or gravel will be a better home to bacteria then smooth large rocks or marbles.

2. Fill your tank with room temperature tap water. Add your water conditioner.

3. Connect your filter. There are many different types of filters on the market and the type you choose depends on the tank size, bioload (or amount of fish waste) and personal preference. Power filters that come with a bio-wheel are nice because the wheel provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria to cling. The filter media itself will house the majority of all the beneficial bacteria in your tank. You do not want to cycle a tank without a filter nor do you want to keep a filter in an aquarium that you do not intend to cycle. (i.e. 100% water changes instead) Doing so will force your tank to perpetually cycle exposing your fish to toxins repeatedly.

If you plan on using filter media from an established tank, add it at this time. The bacteria you will be culturing is already present in your tank so seeding isn't needed. Adding the established filter media, however, may dramatically decrease the total time needed to fully cycle your tank.

4. Measure out the amount of tubing you'll need for the air-stone to reach from the bottom of your tank to the air pump. Connecting the reverse flow valve will ensure that your pump will not accidentally begin siphoning water out of your tank in the event of a power outage. This valve is very inexpensive and can be found near the air stones in most fish stores. Attach the air-stone and place it in your tank. Even though Anabantoids (surface breathing fish) like Bettas don't require much dissolved oxygen in the water, the beneficial bacteria you are developing will.

5. Now that your tank is all set up it's a good idea to run the gambit of tests to see what your water parameters are fresh out of the tap without any additives. Record these results. You may find there is already some ammonia present. It is quite common to find up to 0.5 ppm or greater in your tap water.

Part II: Cycling

1. When cycling with fish it is the fish themselves that excrete ammonia which is consumed by the bacteria, but since we are cycling without fish it's up to us to provide enough ammonia to sustain and encourage growth of the bacteria. Ammonia can be purchased from a grocery store or hardware store. Be sure to check that the ingredients are solely ammonia hydroxide and water. Be sure there are no detergents or artificial colors added to the bottle. If you are unsure, shake the bottle gently. Suds will appear if detergents are present.

2. The potency of ammonia hydroxide depends on the brand you buy and there is no exact quantity to add to your tank water. Unfortunately, trial and error is the only way to determine how much to add. Begin by adding about 3 - 5 drops per gallon of water, allow it to mix for a few minutes and then test your ammonia levels with your salicylate ammonia test kit. You will ultimately want to add enough ammonia to equal the potential bioload. For most simple tank set ups, an ammonia level of about 2.0 ppm will suffice. After testing your water, add enough ammonia to bring it up to the 2.0 ppm level. If it goes a little over that is ok. Retest your ammonia level and record your results.

3. Each day, add enough ammonia to keep the level at about 2.0 ppm. Test your tank for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate each day. Record your results after each test. Check your pH often as well. Any sudden drop or rise in pH can cause your beneficial bacteria to die off and slow or halt your progress. Over the next 1 - 2 weeks the beneficial bacteria that consume ammonia will begin to break down the ammonia you have been adding and will continue to multiply to meet the demand. Those bacteria give off nitrite as a byproduct. Once nitrite begins showing on your tests you'll know the cycle is well under way.

4. At the point your tests show nitrite levels beginning to raise you can cut the amount of ammonia you add each day by half. As ammonia-consuming bacteria multiply, you will see the ammonia levels drop and nitrite levels rise. A second type of beneficial bacteria that lives in your tank will consume harmful nitrite and then themselves, give off less harmful nitrate as a byproduct.

5. Because of this second type of bacteria, you will then see the nitrite levels drop and the nitrate levels begin to rise. This usually occurs around weeks 3 - 4.

6. Once the ammonia levels fall back to zero, the nitrite levels fall back to zero and the nitrate levels are showing on your tests, then and only then, is your tank completely cycled. Congratulations!

7. At this point you will want to do a partial water change to keep nitrates at a safe level. Usually around 10 - 20 ppm is fine. After this water change treat your water with a conditioner that neutralizes chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals and acclimate your fish. If you don't have fish right away, be sure to keep adding ammonia daily to keep the cycle going until you are ready.

8. To maintain a safe environment, do partial 25% water changes each week to keep the nitrate levels in the safe range. On occasion, it's a good idea to test your water for ammonia & nitrite just to make sure the cycle is continuing. Nitrate and pH tests should be performed at least weekly. Once your tank is cycled it can stay cycled for many years with proper maintenance.

Blips in the Cycle

Occasionally your tank may experience a blip in the cycle or may go through a mini-cycle when the ammonia production is not equal with the nitrifying bacterial population. This can happen when you add new fish to the tank and there is suddenly more ammonia being produced then previously or if you perform tank maintenance like replacing your filter media or substrate. In most cases this will correct itself quickly without your ever noticing. Whenever you do observe health problems with your fish it’s recommended to test your ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels first to see if a cycling problem has occurred.

Why Tank Cycling is Better

Cycling your aquariums provides a significantly more stable environment for your fish greatly reducing the likelihood your fish will contract diseases due to stress. Additionally, the maintenance on a cycled aquarium is a fraction of that required for an uncycled tank. It only needs partial water changes rather than full water changes and water testing can be done far less frequently than in the unstable environment created when a tank has not been cycled. In the end, it’s safer for the fish and a lot less time and money for you.

For more on the Nitrogen Cycle visit Tank Cycling: The Fishless Method


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Adrienne Pierce performing Beautiful

Betta Fish Names

Emmy's Close-up, originally uploaded by CerLynn.

Rather than the usual serious Betta talk, I thought I would try something a little more interactive. I know folks are always looking for fun, funny and unique names for their Bettas. Actually, the whole concept of naming fish seems to be fairly unique to Bettas and a small handful of other fish. Maybe it's because they have varying characteristics that make each individual identifiable where as with Zebra Danios or Cory cats it's nearly impossible to figure out who's who anyway. (I know there is a word for that, but it's just not coming to me.) Hence names like Redfish, Spot, The Green Monster, or Sushi (the most popular by far). Maybe it's their attitude that leads to our desire to name them. They certainly aren't short on personality.

Please, tell us the names you have used for your Bettas or just give us a quick list of fishy names you've heard or liked. Post in the comments section of this article. Oh, and if there is a story behind the name... do tell.

Here's a list of names I have used but they're no match for the creativity I have heard from others.

Dog (My first Betta)
Berry
Blaze (My first Crowntail)
Bone (My favorite of all time)
Ziggy (Most beautiful)
Ghost
Frost
Doz
Murphy The Drunken Irish Betta (There is a story with this one)
Flash (Oldest lived)

... oh well, that's all the names that I can recall off the top of my head, maybe I'll add more later. Let's hear yours.