Nippyfish: A Betta Blog

Summer is Here - Fighting Algae Blooms

2010-06-23T20:27:00.001-07:00

New Betta! :D, originally uploaded by s.kosoris.

Summer is finally here and with it generally comes a more stable pH. Water treatment facilities will often do a flushing of the system in the spring causing spikes in chlorine and chloramine levels and unstable KH and pH levels. By the time summer rolls we tend to find less fluctuation in the water chemistry. Instead we are faced with the challenge of keeping our tanks from overheating and avoiding algae blooms from the extended sunlight hours.

If you are noticing more algae than usual with these longer summer days try moving your betta tank away from natural light sources like doors and windows. Remove any uneaten food or debris from the tank and increase your water changes. Nutrients from fish waste and decaying plant and food matter feed algae and can make it hard to keep at bay. Limit the light to 8 – 12 hours per day and reduce as necessary to inhibit algae growth. Monitor your water temperature daily, keeping it stable between 76 and 80 Fahrenheit.

Tips for Caring for Betta Fish in the Spring

2010-03-29T11:15:00.001-07:00

, originally uploaded by prismaviolet.

Nippyfish A Betta Blog is on a bit of a spring break while Christie (that’s me) focuses on her crazy busy day job and wedding planning. We don’t want to leave you in the dust though so please use our betta blog search engine to find answers to your fighting fish questions. There are hundreds of articles and reader questions answered there.

For now, enjoy this list:

Caring for Betta Fish in the Springtime

1. With warmer weather comes increased aquarium water temperature. Make sure you have a thermometer in your tank and check the temperature daily. When the summer hits, you may find running a room fan over the surface of your betta tank will help keep the temperature at a comfortable level. What is a comfortable level for bettas you ask? About 76 – 82 degree Fahrenheit with little fluctuation.

2. The days are getting longer and your betta’s aquarium is getting more hours of sunlight. This can sometimes lead to an algae bloom. If you are noticing more algae lately make sure your tank is out of direct sunlight. Increase your water change schedule to reduce the buildup of waste which is yummy food for algae.

3. How long have you had that open container of betta food? It’s good to toss out open food and replace it with a fresh one every few months because once open, dry food like flakes and pellets lose their nutritional value. Stay on schedule by setting a reminder at the first day of each season to toss out the old food and open a new container.

4. Some betta illnesses are more common in cool water while some are more common in warm water. Stay alert by giving your betta a look over each day for signs of illness or disease. In the spring we see increased instances of Flavobacterium columnare a bacterial disease that looks like a fungus (also called cotton wool disease).

5. I like to change my tank around in the spring (of course you can do that anytime but spring works for me). If you are using live plants, trim out dead or dying leaves and remove any plants that aren’t doing well. Add some new hiding places or move around the old ones for a little variety. No one really knows if bettas benefit from these changes but at the very least, it creates some new interest for you.

So You Just Got Your First Betta Fish - Need Help?

2009-12-23T10:51:00.001-08:00

On the Other Side, originally uploaded by chasing the rain.

Hello Nippyfish Readers (new and returning) and welcome to the busiest time of the year to be a Betta Fish blogger. Mid December kicks off an upswing of visitors to the blog and the Nippyfish main site as people receive well-meaning (if not poorly-planned) bettas as holiday gifts. The first flood of people are those who have turned to the web to learn how to care for their new pet and have landed here. I say to you, Welcome and congratulations on receiving your new betta fish.

First I should tell you that Nippyfish.net was born in 2004 as a place for me to assemble reliable betta care tips and advice based on science and personal experience. There is so much misinformation out there on the web that I was finding myself overwhelmed. I vowed to put together my own site where facts are listed as facts and opinions are noted as just that. You can take from it what you want and hopefully it will help ease the stress of learning to care for this complex and sensitive animal. Here are a few links to get you started. Also, this blog is a good resource as there are hundreds of Q&A and helpful articles listed. Use the search bar above to find what you are looking for or browse the drop-down menu to the right.

Betta splendens 101 – The basics about Betta Fish
Choosing a Tank – Don’t be fooled, a small open bowl or vase is not a safe environment for any fish
All About Water – Learn the basics of water testing and need-to-know water chemistry info for betta fish owners
Feeding – Overfeeding or underfeeding are common beginner mistakes. Learn what bettas eat and how much to feed.

The second flood of visitors to this site will come in January. This group I affectionately call the “ALL CAPS, HELP! PLEASE READ THIS EMAIL” group of Nippyfish readers who have rightfully worked themselves up into a panic because the betta they received for Christmas/Chanukah is sick or dying. The reason they are in this situation is not their fault and is usually the result of a well-meaning friend or relative who gave them the fish and relayed inaccurate advice from the fish store clerk about its “proper care.” Don’t get me wrong, I love fish store clerks – many read this blog and passionate ones often know more about fish keeping than I do. For every one of those clerks, however, there are 10 who have learned everything they know about bettas from 8.5x11 pamphlet provided by their store (if they’re lucky).

If you have found yourself here with a sick fish I first want to tell you that I was you once and totally and completely feel for your situation. Chances are you received this fish because your friend/family member recognized that you are an animal lover and saw you as a responsible pet owner. Because you are loving and caring of animals you are freaking out and either blaming yourself, the fish store, or cruelty of the universe for the sickly-state of your betta. Hang in there, many betta fish diseases are curable and even if the worst happens and he doesn’t make it, you should be proud of yourself for doing the right thing and researching the needs of your pet.

You should start by reading the links in the section above and then check out our disease info here:

Illness and Disease – A guide to the most common betta fish diseases and treatments.

Ok my friends. The holidays are almost here and I am anticipating your emails. I will be traveling a lot enjoying my time off but will do my best to get to as many emails as possible. Please don’t overstress and do enjoy your new pet. Bettas are extraordinarily interesting animals and have a lot to teach us. But a word of warning- they are addictive.

Happy Holidays!

Punishment for Fighting Betta Fish

2009-12-22T11:29:00.001-08:00

thai fighting fish ring, originally uploaded by revs&audy.

caption: The photo above is of a betta fish fighting ring in Thailand

I was having a really interesting conversation on Twitter today about betta fish fighting for gambling/recreation purposes. It’s no secret that Nippyfish does not tolerate animal fighting for sport and I am happy to say most of world doesn’t tolerate it either. When we talk about fighting bettas it is usually in reference to deep-seeded traditions ingrained in far-away countries or to naive high school/college age boys here in the US.

I was interested to hear today that betta fighting in Indonesia, one of the countries where wild bettas originated, is a high-stakes underground business where wagers can get pretty intense. I was pleased to hear; however, that the law in Indonesia does not take animal fighting or gambling lightly. Both offenses are punishable with jail time. When I heard that I couldn’t help but feel satisfied. Perhaps because I have never once heard of anyone being punished for fish fighting here in the US. Even dog fighting, which is as heinous as it is violent, rarely ever ends with any meaningful punishment. Maybe a few months in prison at best and a fine. We have so far to go in protecting our animals in this country. We could stand to take a page from the book of our eastern neighbors.

This leads me to ask, has anyone ever heard of someone getting busted for fish fighting? Have any of our readers ever been busted? I suspect nobody has ever done hard time but what about school suspension, expulsion or loss of some privilege? If the law doesn’t take it seriously, does our school systems? Our teachers? Our parents?

Thanks to Fajar Jasmin who shared his knowledge of betta fighting in Indonesia with me over Twitter. Please take a moment to check out his incredibly poignant blog about his life –Unquote – it is sure to pull at your heartstrings and is my new favorite blog.

Since we have readers from all over the world, we would love to hear about betta fighting in your country and what is or isn’t done to prevent it. Be sure to let us know what country you are from.

Helping New Betta Fish Owners Start Off Right

2009-12-17T14:09:00.001-08:00

Betta1, originally uploaded by ~VLC~.

Q: JP wrote,

Hi Christie!

I recently discovered you site and have a few questions....

A couple of days ago, I received a betta fish for a Christmas present. I am very excited, but want to make sure that I take good care of him. I got a small bowl with him... but its only 1 gallon... I know you said 2.5 was the smallest you would go. What do you think? Also I’m worried about temperature. Do they sell water heaters for small fish bowls?

If you could answer my questions that would be great. Thank you!

A:

Good for you for taking the time to research your new betta fish. This is the busiest time of year for me as I get tons of emails from new fish owners who have received a betta for the holidays.

To get to your question; it is difficult to keep a betta healthy in a small unfiltered and unheated bowl. Success is based more on luck and good genetics than anything else. Initially, keeping your betta in a small bowl may seem like the easiest thing to do but in actuality you are setting yourself up for difficulties from the beginning. Small volumes of water are unstable. They quickly fill with toxic ammonia from fish waste and the temperature in small bowls is especially erratic. Fish, more than anything, need a stable environment to thrive. A 1 gallon bowl needs constant attention, water changes and testing and even if you have the time to do the work it can still be impossible to keep stable.

I recommend doing it right from the beginning, which is really easier than you may think. There are lots of great starter aquariums available for not a lot of money. I recommend the small 5 gallon Aqueon Mini Bow or the 6 gallon Marineland Eclipse.

They are both sturdy desktop aquariums with an internal filter system, a light and a lid to keep in bettas which are notorious jumpers. Hope this is helpful and that you enjoy your new Betta. Happy holidays!

Betta Tail Injured by Aquarium Net

2009-11-03T15:43:00.001-08:00

Undersea Tiki Betta, originally uploaded by pixelator_1999.

Q: DA wrote,

Hello! I have found so much useful information from your site. Thank you for all of the time and hard work that you put into it!

I have had this little guy for two weeks. He was in a small bowl, that I did water changes on every 2 days. When I bought him his tail already had a "fringe-y" look to it, but did not seem to be anything wrong to me. He eats good, and has been acting healthy. I did damage his tail while moving him to clean his bowl, :( It was a rookie mistake, and it looks like someone to a bite out of it. "net happens" is now our slogan...

Two days ago, I got him moved into a 6 gal eclipse tank. He LOVES it! I didn't know bettas were such active fish. He has been playing in the current, and just having a great time. My question is that I am worried about his tail....is it getting fin rot? or am I just being an over protective mother?

I have been using stability everyday to build up the good bacteria in the tank. (It says to use it for the first 7 days) I also used Prime, and 1/4 teaspoon of aquarium salt. I tested the water today. PH 6.8. Nitrite 0, Nitrate 0, Ammonia 0. Tank temp is holding steady a 79 degrees. Right now all I have are a few silk plants, and gravel. I want to do a planted tank later. I have not done a water change yet, will do so when ammonia levels rise. He is getting pellet food, 3 to 4 pieces everyday, and freeze dried blood worms a couple times a week. At this time he is the only fish in the tank.

The only other thing I can think to add, is that he only flairs on one side. It looks like a deformity. When he sees himself in the mirror, he gets all "puffed -up" and flairs, but only his right side opens up. Have you ever heard of this before?? It doesn't seen to bother him, and he acts normal...so I figured birth defect.

DA's Betta Fish

A: Wow, D, your new 6 gallon tank set up sounds great and your water parameters are spot on for your betta fish. For a “rookie” as you called yourself, you are certainly on track for success.

Thanks too, for sending the photos of your betta fish. I can see exactly where you clipped his fin with your net. The good news is I don’t think it is turning into fin rot. On the contrary, it appears he is growing some new fin tissue. In the photo below you can see some very fine cellophane-like webbing beginning to grow where he lost the chunk of fin. That is new growth. It will likely take a couple of months before he has his fin completely healed but as long as you keep his water clean and your betta healthy, you should notice rapid improvements in the next couple of weeks.

Betta fish tail fin regrowth

Of course, I should mention that new fin tissue is extremely fragile. It is not unusual for bettas to lose their new fin growth due to reinjury or fin rot. Be gentile with that net during water changes and keep his water warm, clean and stable.

Best of luck

Photo of DA's Betta

Episode 1 - Water Changes and Betta Behavior

2009-11-01T18:18:00.000-08:00

Hey gang,

Welcome to the first ever Nippyfish: A Betta Blog video blog. Today I tried answering our reader email over video but am also including written info for your reference. Let us know what you think.

Q: PM wrote,

Thank you so much for posting a lot of useful information online. I just got my betta fish a week ago and have been following your advice. He's doing quite well.

I have questions about my betta and would be very appreciated if you could get back to me.

1. I bought an ECLIPSE SYSTEM 3 (3-gallon tank with filter). I am wondering how often should I change the water and how much water should be taken out? Also, should I take my betta out of the tank before cleaning or just leave him in the tank?

2. I have been feeding my betta with Hikari Bio-Gold pellets. I feed him 1-2 pellets per day. I am not sure if I am feeding him a proper amount or underfeeding him.

3. My betta fish is relatively small -- about 1 1/3 inch long without tails. Is he normal?

4. I read your profile and found that you live in San Diego and I think you definitely could answer this question. I live in Santa Barbara and the weather fluctuates between low 50s to low 70s degree F in one day (outside temperature). I called the local pet stores and they said I can just keep him in the room temperature and he will be fine. Well, some online websites say that the best temperature of betta fish is 74-78 F because at this temperature range, a betta can live long. I am wondering whether I need a thermometer for my betta fish

5. After reading online, I found that flaring means he's angry because his territories has been invaded. But, how about the other kinds of behavior? I had him wag his tails vigorously at times without flaring. Do you know what this sign means? By the way, do you have information about betta fish behavior?

I am so sorry I am asking so many questions! It is because I trust you much more than other folks who set up betta websites just to sell their products. Thank you so much in advance!

A: A three gallon can either be cycled or you can do complete 100% water changes. If yo choose to clean the water completely each time, start by testing your water daily with an ammonia test kit. How often you need to change your water depends on a lot of factors so each tank is different. See how many days it takes for your water to register trace amounts of ammonia. If it takes 9 days, you know to change your water every 8 days before ammonia becomes an issue. Repeat the test periodically. If you do 100% water changes obviously you will need to remove your fish. In a cycled tank you can just change 10% - 20% of the water weekly and can leave your fish in the tank during cleaning.

1-2 pellets is probably not enough to sustain a growing betta over time. I suggest trying 2-3 twice per day and monitoring your betta. If he does well with that amount try adding another two pellets feeding no more than 8 - 10 in a day (split over a couple of feedings). If you betta shows signs of bloating you are feeding too much.

1 1/3" is a normal size for betta fish purchased at the store. These days it is common to find bettas for sale that aren't quite full grown. Over the next several months you will likely see you betta grow until he reaches about 2 - 2 1/2 inches.

I do recommend purchasing an inexpensive thermometer for your aquarium. Monitor your water temperature daily and watch for drastic fluctuations. Aim for a stable temperature around 78˚F. If you find your temperature fluctuating too much from day to evening you may need to consider a small aquarium heater.

Tail wiggling isn't completely understood but appears to be a good thing. Most bettas will wiggle their tails when you approach the glass or go to feed them. It appears they are begging for food. Tail wiggling seems to be most common in strong, healthy bettas with lots of energy and a good appetite so I would consider it a good sign.

Thanks so much for writing in and for being my very first betta fish video blog victim... I mean... participant.

Heating Small Betta Fish Bowls

2009-09-21T10:08:00.001-07:00

Fish Bowl-6, originally uploaded by Melissa Alicia.

NS wrote,

Hey. I just arrived at my college today and got a fish. I'm currently housed in a triple which leaves very little room for a fish. Before heading out to the store to get my new little bud I was just wondering what type of heater i should use on my 1 gallon corner tank? The tank has an undergravel filter, and live plants will be going in with it to help keep it a healthy and natural place for my new study buddy. :)

Please help me out. And unfortunately until I get a new housing assignment my lack of space is causing me to keep this small tank.

A: Congratulations on your new betta and adventures in college. I too lived in a triple as a Freshman and know how tight the space is and just like you, I got my very first betta in college too. They make for a great dorm-room pet as long as your roommates are cool about them.

One gallon tanks can be difficult to heat. The small water volume leaves it open to severe fluctuations and most aquarium heaters aren’t made for such small containers. If your room is quite cool you may be able to use the Hydor Mini-Heater. At just 7.5 watts it is one of the only water heaters made for tiny aquariums. It is important to note that these heaters do not have an automatic shut-off when they reach the desired temperature like most aquarium heaters have (for larger tanks). This means you could easily overheat your water posing a danger to your fish. If you choose to go with a mini-heater you should absolutely have a thermometer in the tank and you should check it frequently. On warmer days you may need to unplug the heater completely.

Your other option is to go without a heater at all. I typically do not recommend this, but if you keep your Betta in a warm, stable location it may be a safer alternative especially if you can’t be around enough to monitor the Mini-Heater.

Mini-heaters can be hard to track down. If you can't find one at your local fish store you definitely can find them online. Good luck.

Curing Dropsy in Betta Fish

2009-09-18T08:11:00.001-07:00

Alla luce dell'attacco - Betta splendens (Pesce combattente) - The Royal Discus, originally uploaded by Michele Pelosi.

I received a wonderful letter from a reader describing how he successfully beat Dropsy in his Betta fish. As many of you know, Dropsy is symptom of another underlying illness which manifests as severe abdominal swelling or general body swelling leading to protruding (pineconing) scales. It is believed that these symptoms are the result of internal organ failure and the subsequent fluid buildup in the body. Dropsy is common in many species of aquarium fish and is usually fatal in Betta splendens. Thanks to Angelo for sharing his story with our Nippyfish readers.

Good day! I've been an avid reader of your blog and website and pretty much took to heart everything you noted on Betta care.
I just wanted to share an experience with Dropsy and how my fish unbelievably made a recovery from it. I hope others who have their pets affected by this can benefit as well.

I never used to have any problems with my Betta, Manny. He stays in a 2.5 Gallon Tank with a HOB filter, with no substrate or decorations since anything added to the tank other than the filter never seemed to agree with him... whether they be rocks, live plants or anything plastic. He was a happy fighting fish, swimming actively and playing with the current from the filter for days on end. One morning I saw him floating on his side one morning when I came to give him his food. His scales were raised, there was a certain redness under his gills, and his tummy had a slight swell to it... at that point I figured it had to be Dropsy plus some other infection that I couldn't tell. My first three Bettas all died of Dropsy, and I felt bad knowing I might lose him to this one too. Nonetheless, I took him from his tank and put him in his 16 oz. hospital bowl where I know the measurements of his meds would be more exact. I took out the aquarium salt (1 teaspoon in 1.5 gallon containers) from his usual water mix, and put in Epsom salt in its place. I also got some Betta Revive and put in a drop to go with the mix. I made the transfer and prayed for the best. He was still floating on his side for the first few days, but he was eating so I figured there was still a chance.

I did this routine everyday for two weeks, (despite the fact that the note on Betta revive said it should be discontinued after a week) changing his water every one or two days as I could, applying the same mix. From floating on his side, he started swimming upright and then just lay down on one side at the bottom of the bowl the next few days. I felt sorry for him since he looked like he was in a lot of pain. He would only respond to food, and he wouldn't really move for the rest of the time. I did see some physical improvements; his scales eventually returned to normal, the redness under his gills disappeared, and his belly returned to its normal size. He still seemed pretty weak, since he still wasn't moving about.

This morning I checked, and he looked completely normal. Granted, he wasn't as active as his old self was, but he looked better than he ever had since he got hit by Dropsy. He was eating (dashed off with a pellet of Hikari Bio-Gold in his mouth), and responded quite well when I waved my hand in front of his hospital tank. I have yet to move him in his old tank, but it does seem like he's made a remarkable recovery.

To everyone that has Bettas suffering from Dropsy... it's important to catch this very early on. I think I may have been lucky that I got to see this early in Manny, with his scales partially raised and his tummy swelling just slightly. I doubt I could've made much of a difference if I caught it in its later stages. There were points that he looked worse before he got better, but as long as he's breathing, eating, and moving... he has a chance. Don't give up on his water changes and inspect his condition every day.

For reference, the recovery package included:

- 1 16oz Mini Bowl or Tank
- 1 teaspoon of Epsom salt for 1.5 gallons of water
- 1 drop of Betta Revive per 16 oz.
- Water treated with the usual anti-chlorine and aged for a day or two near the tank so the temperature would be consistent.

I live in the tropics, so the temperature often ranged from 27-32 C degrees. I did 100% water changes every one to two days as my schedule allowed, since I got so swamped with work deadlines that time.

I didn't change his diet with this, feeding him smaller amounts of BettaMin Tropical Medley flakes and (1 pellet, soaked) Hikari Bio-Gold alternately. Fast him every 6th or 7th day to give his digestive tract a rest.

Prayers definitely helped too. :)

In any case, I'm moving Manny back to his old tank today. I'll have to taper off his dosage of Epsom salt so as not to make it sudden. Then I'll likely reduce the aquarium salt or remove it altogether.

I hope others would be able to use this information. Thanks again for such an informative blog, and I hope this info adds a bit more to help Betta keepers everywhere!

Best regards,
Angelo

There is a great lesson to be learned from this story. Animals are amazingly resilient and have inalienable will to survive. I admire Angelo’s dedication to the treatment of his pet. I too have seen some amazing recoveries and believe deeply that we have a responsibility to care for our fish when they are sick and to take whatever steps are necessary to provide a safe and stable environment for them.

Thanks again for the email Angelo.

A photo of Manny provided by Angelo

Woops! Betta Food Dumped into Fish Tank

2009-09-17T15:08:00.001-07:00

my gold crowntail, originally uploaded by louie imaging.

Q: EB wrote,

I’ve had my betta fish for a couple months; it was a gift from a friend. Usually he shows the usual healthy signs but I noticed that his color has dimed and he doesn’t have that shininess to him anymore. His eyes aren’t clear and seem clouded. He also seems a little uninterested in food but he will eat. One day I was gone and my sister poured a bunch of dried food into his tank (like over 25 pieces) when I had already fed him that day. I didn’t notice all the food floating in his tank until night time, so I cleaned it out right away. My sister said she saw him eat some so I was afraid that he overate and that he would die. He is still alive showing the same unhealthy signs. He still makes bubble nests but he seems even more uninterested in things and when I go to feed him he will attempt to eat but it’s like he can’t see very well because he will miss getting the food in his mouth several times, Today he only ate one piece of food and he will look at the other pieces but it’s like he gives up on trying to get it. So I found the Nippyfish site and thought about writing you. What do you think I should do to get him healthy again?

A:You did the right thing by changing the water as soon as you noticed all the food had been dumped. (I’m guessing you have a little sister. People email about these things all the time.) While it is possible he overate that day it is not likely that he could eat himself to death. Bettas are opportunistic in that he took advantage of all that extra food by pigging out not knowing when his next meal was coming. Now he is overfed and feeling sluggish, not to mention he spent the day swimming in dirty fish-food water. I recommend keeping his water clean, like you have been doing, and giving him a break from food for one or two days. Bettas, being cold-blooded animals, won’t die from a day or two without food. After a couple of days (after he poops), offer him a small amount of food again.

The cloudy eyes could be caused by the food breaking down in the water, particularly if the tank is quite small. Keep his tank clean and increase your water changes. In a week or so his eyes should begin to clear. If his eyes get worse or he shows any signs of swelling in the eyes you may need to treat for a bacterial infection, but as for now I recommend concentrating on keeping his water clean. Also, the cloudy eyes could be the result of chlorine burns. If you are not, make sure you are treating your tap water with a dechlorinator. (I am guessing you probably already are.) If his symptoms don’t improve in a week you should see about testing your tank water with an aquarium water testing kit. I hope he feels better soon.

Treating Stubburn Fin Rot in Betta Fish

2009-09-02T09:57:00.000-07:00

Shelbi with Fin Rot. Image provided by BS
Q: BS wrote,

My betta fish Shelbi has fin rot now. His water is and has been pristine with the parameters at their perfect spots. He had blackened tips when I bought him but I thought it was just his coloring. Now his fin tips are damaged and broken. I did water changes and checked his water repeatedly before getting medications to see if he could heal himself but he just got worse and I didn't want to waste time while his tail dissolved away. I kept him in unmedicated, clean water for a month and a half. When it just kept getting worse, I went to the pet store and bought T.C. Tetracycline and Maracyn-Two. My other fish, Ember had gotten fin rot now, too because I didn't have another tank to separate him from Shelbi. Ember cleared up almost immediately and I bought a hospital tank for Shelbi. Shelbi has gone through two Tetracycline treatments to no avail. I started Maracyn-Two yesterday and no improvement yet. What else can I do? I have attached a couple pictures of his fin rot. Will his tail grow back the same as it was? Right now it looks very tattered and short and the fin rot is progressing, fast. How long does it take to grow back and regain color?

Also, I went out of town for a week and when I came back, Shelbi had a white speck on him. (it's actually not really white, it's kind of gray). It's not protruding or clumpy or anything, just a white speck, so I don't think it's ich. I have also attached a picture of it. What do you think it is?

Poor Shelbi has had a rough time lately, I am trying to do my best to take care of him!

His hospital tank is:
-10 gallons
-heated to 79 degrees
-medium sized gravel
-unfiltered/uncycled
-silk plants and cave
-I clean it once a week
-all perimeters are right

Thank you so much for all of the help you have given me with Ember and Shelbi. It has been so great to have someone like you to go to with questions for a reliable answer.

Shelbi with Fin Rot. Image provided by BS

A: Wow, that Shelbi is one beautiful fish. I just love his color.

Fin rot, while not typically life threatening, is still a very tricky illness because it can take a long time to overcome. Torn fins or fins that have been nipped by another fish tend to regrow quickly once the problem has been addressed. Usually within a few days new tissue growth can be seen and significant regrowth can be observed within a few weeks. Fin rot, however, is different as it is characterized as fin tissue loss due to a bacterial infection. It is not uncommon for the regrowth to be much slower or for multiple relapses to occur once new tissue has begun to take hold. Some betta keepers battle fin rot for months before they get a good handle on it.

When the fins do regrow, you may notice some slight differences in color (usually minor) or you could see a curling of the rays, especially in crowntails. This curl is usually permanent and while it may not win any awards for your fish, it will not affect him in any other way.

Fortunately, based on your photos, Shelbi’s fin rot is very minor and your hospital tank set up seems like a good healing environment. You may find, once he is finished with this course of antibiotics, that you can continue to monitor him in his usual aquarium.

Things to watch out for while he is mending:
1. Any ammonia or nitrite in the water
2. Fluctuating pH
3. Organic debris collecting where the fish may drag his tail
4. Water that is too cool or fluctuates greatly
5. Tank décor or other fish that may tear his fragile fins

If you find that his fin rot continues to worsen you may need to dig a little deeper into the cause. For example, how is your tap water treated? Are you using a water conditioner that neutralizes chloramines and heavy metals as well as chlorine? Are there other stressors that could be creating a hazard? What is your pH level from the tap as well as in the aquarium? If it is fluctuating, have you tested your carbonate hardness (KH)? It might be that we just need to take a closer look at some of the other water parameters.

You can always email me the results of your water tests and I can look them over too to see if there is anything unusual or missing from your test regimen. Let us know how he is doing. Hopefully he is responding to the Maracyn-Two treatment.

The white spec is another story. It is really difficult for me to see what is going on there. It could be the early signs of a fungus-looking bacterial infection or an actual fungus. I did see a case recently where the betta was loosing pigment and his scales around his head were turning white (not raised or fuzzy). It wasn’t anything I had seen before but would be curious if you think it is the same thing. Does it look like the scales themselves are changing color or falling out?

Shelbi with White Spot. Image provided by BS

Can PH Fluctuations Lead to Illnesses in Betta Fish?

2009-09-01T10:59:00.001-07:00

DSCN9841, originally uploaded by starlessdesigns.

Q: C wrote,

Remember me? I emailed you awhile back about my male fish named Sushi. He had the mysterious disease. He finally had gotten better with the inside/outside anti bacterial food. He was all back to normal. But that only lasted about 3 weeks or so.

I have been doing the water changes AND I got the test stripes to test the water regularly. Problem is the PH will NOT come down. Even after fresh changes. I bought the PH DOWN. It does NOT help. I did it in stages, so it would not stress him out. It says on the bottle that some tap waters are so resistant to the PH down that it may not work. I checked it again this morning, and every time it’s HIGH PH. Highest there is, so the alkalinity is also high. Everything else is OK though.

Well, he now has fin rot. He has lost at least 70% or more of his fins! He has a few white dots on him but not all over like ICH does. He is still swimming up top and he eats like a pig but now has the white spots/dots and fin rot. This is NOT the cheese grater white like last time... its actual spots, like salt. But again, only about 5-6 spots only.

What now!!?? I am going nuts? I don't know what to do about the spots/rot and can't get the PH down. Suggestions? I appreciate everything and your time!!

A: It’s nice to hear from you but I’m sorry to hear Sushi is not feeling well again. It sounds like there are a few things going on here. First, I believe it is better to deal with a high pH that is stable then mess with changing the pH. The fluctuations can be very dangerous to your fish. PH Down really doesn’t work and could even be a major contributing factor to Sushi’s fin rot and what I believe may be Ich. As you know I also live in southern California and just like you I have very alkaline pH. In fact, I have to buy a HIGH RANGE pH test kit just to get proper results because the regular one doesn’t even go high enough to give me an accurate reading. My tap water (from the faucet) is 8.2. It will often come down a bit, once the water stands for awhile, but the new water from the faucet has a very high pH indeed.

There are a few reasons why pH DOWN doesn’t work. First, the ability for the pH to fluctuate is determined by its buffering capacity or KH. (KH is also called Carbonate Hardness). The KH is what keeps the pH stable. Unless the KH is very low, the pH will just bounce right back to where it was. Making the pH bounce from high to low and back again is extremely dangerous to fish and in some cases has been known to kill off entire aquariums. When this happens, aquarists call this a “pH crash”. Another reason why you can’t keep the PH low is because you are regularly changing your water with new clean water that happens to have a very high pH. Of course you have to continue with regular water changes so may have little choice but to deal with less than perfect pH.

Regarding your white spots, it does sound to me like Ich. Seeing 5 -6 spots could be the early sign. If left untreated the spots (parasites) will fall off and reproduce only to come back as 10-20 spot and then progress from there until your fish is in serious shape. Luckily Ich is easily treatable. I suggest Rid-Ich+ which has always worked great for me personally and can be found at any pet store that carries fish supplies. Ich parasites are common but typically infect stressed fish.

Fin rot, however, is a bacterial infection and occurs most commonly as the result of poor water quality but may be the result of stress. When fin rot progresses to the point of 50% fin loss or more I generally recommend an antibiotic like tetracycline or Maracyn-Two. As always with antibiotics, be sure measure the doses carefully and administer the full course to help avoid antibiotic resistant strains of bacteria. If you decide to treat for both Ich and Fin Rot at the same time, read the packaging on both medications carefully to be sure they are safe to use together.

I hope Sushi feels better soon.

New Betta Fish is Sluggish and Not Eating

2009-08-26T13:33:00.001-07:00

Red Rum ( Half Moon Betta ) !, originally uploaded by q8phantom.

Q: H wrote,

Hi there -

Firstly, I wanted to say that I've been reading your (beautiful) site for a while now, before I bought my first betta, and it helped tremendously – many thanks!

Secondly - I'm hoping you can give me some advice or suggestions. My betta came home on Saturday of last week, with four WCMMs (White Cloud Mountain Minnows), from a really good LFS (all of the fish there are beautiful – well cared for, alert, interested in their surroundings and playful - and the store owner and I spent some time discussing the ailing plakat in the shop's hospital tank). The betta had been in with a tank full of neon tetras, and had been absolutely unperturbed - they left him alone, and vice versa - so I'd no compunctions in letting them all move into their new home (63 litre Juwel Rekord tank) together. It's well planted, has an inch or so of gravel substrate and two big chunks of bogwood. For the first three or four days, all was great - they were all as bright and alert as they had been in the shop, and were all eating well. Around Wednesday afternoon, the betta started to display less interest in food. Overnight he became increasingly listless and remains so now.

The tank is fully cycled, and the ammonia and nitrites have both been 0 consistently (I've been monitoring it carefully). The nitrates have been high so I've done several largish water changes, but the result remains high (40-50). Until Tuesday this didn't seem to be affecting any of them, so I stuck to water changes, but yesterday I tried adding several doses of Tetra EasyBalance which professes to have nitrate minimizing granules in it. It doesn't actually seem to be minimizing anything, but I figured it was worth a shot.

I use Seachem Prime as a dechlorinator, but try to avoid too many additives, so it's just been the Prime and the EasyBalance.

I've made sure that the water has been up to temperature by boiling a kettle and adding it to my bucket of tap water, before adding the Prime and adding it to the tank, to ensure no nasties from the hot water pipes infiltrate the tank.

I did a really big water change today, which cleaned out a load of plant debris from a few of the aquatics which haven't quite made it, and pruned a few others, but the nitrates remain around 25-50 (I'm using the API test strips).

The betta remains listless, hanging out in the foliage near the surface of the water. He's not eaten since Wednesday, when I tempted him (for the first time) wih a mouthful of Tetra Fresh Delica whole bloodworms "in a nutritious, vitamin-rich jelly". This was a one off - ordinarily he gets Hikkari pellets or what I assume are freeze-dried bloodworms, courtesy of the LFS, both of which he was eating happily until Wednesday. His change in demeanor coincides with this meal, but I can't see any obvious signs of infection (but then, I'm more used to checking for infection in creatures
with fur). He almost looks a little "tucked up" (a term I ordinarily associate with horses) - could he be constipated, d'you think? Attached is a pic I've just managed to snap as he came out of his foliage for a brief spell.

Photo of actual Betta by reader

This is pretty much straight out of the camera - I boosted the exposure slightly to get rid of the shadow on his belly, but his colours haven't really changed since I got him. I can't see any spots, light or dark, or discoloration, and I can't see any sort of damage to his fins, or any bloating, either. He's really just thoroughly disinterested in everything.

The minnows, of course, remain bright and bouncy!

A:
I read your email and looked closely at the photo of your betta that you sent me. From the photo, I can not see anything obviously wrong. On the contrary, his color, size and shape are good and his fins are spread normally. He looks healthy. That said, obviously listlessness and loss of appetite are not normal and you are right to be concerned.

High nitrates over time certainly could be the problem. Test strips are not particularly accurate, but if the actual nitrates are hovering around the 50 ppm mark, like they say, I believe they can be a factor. Unfortunately products claiming to reduce nitrates don’t really work, as you noted yourself. Water changes are truly the best (and most cost effective) means for reducing nitrates. Continue with your frequent water changes until you get them under 20 ppm. Even once they are there, a change in your betta’s behavior may not be immediate.

I am also curious about your water temperature. You mentioned that you heat the water during water changes to match the new water with the tank water, which is great. What is the water temperature typically at and how much does it fluctuate throughout the day/night? Do you have an aquarium heater running? Water that is consistently too cool will certainly lead to sluggishness and even appetite loss as the fish’s metabolism slows down. If possible, run an aquarium heater at around 78F (25.5C).

You may also benefit from testing your water’s pH level. Fluctuating pH or pH that is extremely high or low (alkaline or basic) may lead to similar behavior. If it is normal and consistent it is one more thing you can rule out.

Fish food born illnesses are possible. They tend to be more common when the foods are wild caught or when not properly stored. For example, when frozen foods are left to thaw and then refrozen or are unrefrigerated for longer than they should be. If kept properly, most manufactured products especially brand names like Tetra, are pretty safe.

Hopefully I was able to give you a few things to consider. I know it has been some time since you wrote so if you get a chance, let me know how the little guy is doing. Hopefully he is feeling better.

Nippyfish - Swimming Upstream

2009-07-29T07:48:00.000-07:00

Hi readers. Sorry I have been absent these last two weeks. I am in the process of buying a house (yay, more fish!) and have a killer deadline looming at work. My email is overflowing with reader questions which I will get back to answering next week when life slows down a bit.

Thanks for hanging in there everyone. In the mean time, if you have a fish related question try using our search engine bar above. We literally have hundreds of common betta fish questions answered here on the blog and tons of great information to help you.

And for everyone leaving comments; I am reading them and enjoying them every day. Thanks for participating and sharing your thoughts at Nippyfish: A Betta Blog.

Thanks,
Christie

Betta Fish Twitching

2009-07-13T12:56:00.001-07:00

Close Up of Sara, originally uploaded by shagajr.

Q: AH wrote,

I have a question about my betta fish and, because your site is so informative, I thought you would be a great resource. I’ve had my little betta, Sam, for about 3 weeks. He lives in a 2 gallon tank filled with tap water and conditioned with TopFin Betta Water Conditioner. I have a thermometer and his water temp is usually between 76 and 78 degrees. I have a small filter that I run once a week. When it’s running, the current is so strong that he struggles to stay in one place, but his tank is clean. Every day I feed him 3 freeze dried bloodworms and he’s happy about that. He seems healthy, he swims a lot and he greets me. The past couple of days though, his swimming seems different. He seems a little jittery. Almost like he’s twitching. I haven’t made any big changes to his environment or water and I can’t seem to figure out why he is swimming like that. Is this normal? I did a little research and he doesn’t appear to have an illness. He has very colorful scales, long and colorful fins, no fungus, dark eyes and I don’t see any white spots. Maybe you can help me. I just want to make sure he is comfortable and happy.

A: If your betta fish begins twitching irregularly it may signify an external parasitic infection like Ich or Velvet or may be an indication of water quality problems like the presence of ammonia or chlorine irritation. Whenever your betta’s behavior changes from what is routine, it is a good idea to give him a thorough look over and test your water parameters. Ich has the appearance of small white salt like granules stuck to your betta’s head, body and fins. They are easy to spot and if untreated can become serious. Velvet is a similar parasite but harder to see with the naked eye. It often appears as a rust colored dusting on the betta’s head and body. It can also look brownish, gold or red in color. It is often easier to see with a flash light as the parasites will sometimes have a little sheen to them. Again, it appears more like a sprinkling of fine powder.

You should also test your water for dangerous toxins like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate with a freshwater aquarium test kit. If you don’t have one, call your local fish store to see if they will test it for you for free if you bring in a sample. Most will do free water testing for their patrons. Rapid changes in pH may also lead to behavioral changes like twitching. It is always good to have a pH test kit handy as even small variations in pH over a short time can be problematic. While I do not recommend pH adjusters like pH Up or pH Down, it is good to know if your pH is fluctuating. Often, simply allowing your new change-water to sit overnight in a container will be enough to stabilize the pH before your water change and will do it without harmful pH chemical agents.

Betta's Head Changing Color

2009-07-06T17:36:00.001-07:00

Blue Fighting Fish, originally uploaded by Rae134.

Q: DH wrote,

I have had my betta Lapis for a little over a month now, and he's been through quite an ordeal. About a couple weeks ago he managed to get stuck against the old filter system I had in the tank and ripped his caudal fin to shreds. He's healing from that, thanks to help from my local mom and pop fish store's help. Up until Friday he was in a 5 gallon tank, but I had to replace it that morning because the 5 gallon was leaking. He is now in a 10 gallon tank, and this one has a light. I turned it on only for a few moments (honestly don't use the light, don't like the idea of algae growth) and noticed for the first time that his face is duller than the rest of his body. There appears to be no signs of ick, velvet, or cotton wool. He's swimming around like normal, eating normally, so there doesn't seem to be anything WRONG with him. I read on a website that they sometimes lose their scales due to stress, but that they might heal back. Is that true? Should I start another Melafix treatment? (I was using less than a half dose for a while for his fins; the small amount because I wasn't sure if he would be allergic or not)

Oh, and I forgot to mention he's now in a 10 gallon hexagonal filled only a little more than halfway. There's still an adult's hand-length from the top of the water to the top of the aquarium. I was worried about the water being too deep if I filled it up any more than that. He's also got a brand new Marineland Visi-therm submersible rated for a 10 gallon tank, and a Hydro-Sponge 1 sponge filtration system (which I put in after the old filter chewed up my poor baby). I live in a dorm-style apartment so unfortunately he's stuffed in my room, where I'm often moving about. I read somewhere that too much activity might stress him out... should I make a fabric cover for his tank so that he can have quiet times or something? Would that help him de-stress?

I'm including a link to a picture of what I mean about his scales. You can also see how his caudal fin is still a little tattered... it's amazing that it's healed so well in just about two weeks. I'm glad I didn't listen to one of the other betta enthusiasts online because he was pushing the use of antibiotics and saying that Melafix wouldn't do anything. (I think he was wrong on that one.) This is Lapis Lazuli or "Lapis" for short. I named him that because his coloring often reminds me of the precious stone.

Also, I noticed on your website you suggested that people not add unnecessary chemicals to the tank, yet quite a few betta enthusiasts have recommended API Stress Coat as beneficial to keep the water conditioned for bettas. Should I discontinue using this? I'm on city water and I worry about the chlorine.

A:Thanks for writing in and for sending the link to the photo of Lapis. The good news is I don’t see anything out of the ordinary and your betta, from the photo anyway, looks completely healthy. The dark coloration around his head is very common among bettas and is completely normal, especially for blue betta fish. After bettas adjust to their new surroundings they often begin to show their true colors and most often this means their colors get darker and more saturated. I believe you are just seeing Lapis with his natural and healthy coloration. Even his fins look almost completely healed. You may also find that the light will affect your betta’s coloration. Turning a light on will tell your betta it is time to wake up and hunt. During the day, your betta’s color will darken and become richer. When it is dark they will go to sleep and become pale. While you don’t need a light in your betta tank it is good to make sure he is getting at least ambient room light so that he can maintain his natural rhythm of waking and sleeping.

You can also feel free to fill up that 10 gallon aquarium. While Betta fish may be able to survive in shallow water they by no means require it. It will give him more room to roam and enjoy his surrounding and give you a little more time between water changes. Ten gallon tanks are great for bettas. It’s what I use at home too. You might even get an itch to add a small tankmate or two down the road, which you will be able to do once your tank has cycled.

Oh, and regarding your water conditioner question... A conditioner that neutralizes chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals is absolutely necessary if you water has them. That is something you want to keep using.

Thanks for writing in.

Photo of Lapis by DH

Betta Fish with Lump on his Head

2009-07-02T15:09:00.000-07:00

Lump on Betta's Head provided by LH

LH wrote,

I’ve seen your site and figured I’d get an opinion on my fish if you don't mind taking the time. I’ve had him since the end of January and about a month after I got him, he had a spot on his face that just grew. I thought it may have just been a scrape but it hasn't gotten better, just worse. I tried to avoid medications because I’m scared of them doing more harm then good, but the lump on his head just seemed too big and kind of cottony so I treated him for fungus. It didn't really help much. For the most part he has been on a diet of brine shrimp. He lives in a filtered 5 gallon tank that and I do about an 80% water change every 2 weeks and treat the water with aquarium salt. His appetite is healthy, but I would really like to do something about his problem before it gets too bad. Lately I’ve been trying salt baths, but over the last one, he lost too much colour too quickly. Today (before said salt bath) I had noticed that little white bits were a part of his lump too. I took some pictures, I will enclose the best.

A follow up with your opinion would be appreciated. Thank you for your time

(He doesn't have any other dots on his body, those are just bubbles) he also had a bit of fin rot off and on, but it never got too bad. Right now his fins are in good shape. He a little bit lethargic and has trouble keeping balanced, but he is still enthusiastic.

A: Most betta illnesses can be easily identified but occasionally I get one that really stumps me. The Nippyfish reader above sent in this photo of her betta showing an unusual lump on his head with specs of white. I have speculated that it could be a tumor or perhaps a parasitic infestation of some sort. Despite what you may read on some websites, tumors are not very common among bettas. Most of the time lumps can be attributed to constipation or fluid retention which is commonly misdiagnosed as a tumor. This, however, is neither of those. The white specs are also unusual, which makes me think it could be parasites. Is it possible the lump is filled with some sort of bug which we are seeing poking through the scales? Perhaps gill flukes? It does appear to be near the gills but it is hard to tell if it is an infection of the gills specifically. Could the white we are seeing be the result of slime coat build up from the salt baths? I am just tossing out ideas because truthfully I don’t really know what has caused this. I’d love to hear our readers’ thoughts and ideas as well. Have any of you seen this in your fish?

Betta Fish Won't Eat From the Surface

2009-06-30T13:28:00.001-07:00

Happy Chinese New Year Everyone!!!!, originally uploaded by louie imaging(busy).

Q: EW wrote:

I have had betta fish before, and I get them from my local pet stores (in those horrible little bowls) I usually have to wait a couple days for the betta to start eating and acting like a normal betta, but my most recent, Rudy, will not eat food from the surface. He really likes the food as it is falling to the water, but he won't look up to the surface when I feed him, I am worried only because this has never happened before and I don't want him to be underfed b/c he won't go to the surface to find food. What should I do?

I have tried pellets, flakes, bloodworms and brime shrimp. He likes the flakes when the sink, but then the water gets filthy faster.

A: If it is important to you to feed your betta at the surface then you can try conditioning him by feeding the same type food consistently at the same location. If needed, try several times per day until he anticipates food at that location. If after a few days your betta hasn’t picked up on the new plan then you may want to cater to his instincts and allow the food to sink. Food that sinks won’t necessarily foul your water any quicker then floating food. The issue is rotting organic debris. As long as he is eating the food and not allowing it to decompose in the tank, you should be able to get by with your regular water changes. If your betta is leaving some food behind you can remove it 15 to 20 minutes after your initial feeding with a turkey baster. You may also want to look for other things that may be keeping him from noticing the floating food, like bright overhead lighting, strong filter current or dense surface vegetation. It could be that he just isn’t seeing the food until it has begun to sink.

Elevated Ammonia Levels in Empty Aquarium

2009-06-23T14:23:00.001-07:00

2006-10-18 20gallon freshwater, originally uploaded by caseylrauth.

Q: CD wrote,

I've started my cycling experiment with a 1 gal betta bowl (no fish, of course - he's in a different one). So far, so good. The ammonia got up to over 1.0ppm (not quite 2.0, but greener than the 1.0), and today it was down to the 0.5ppm color. I've added more old tank water (searched for two weeks, but couldn't find any ammonia to buy), and so now I have another
question - what do I do to test for nitrates? Do you know of anything that is better than strips, or are strips ok for what I'm doing?

When I started the cycling bowl, I thought I'd try something else. Here's the back story: when I first set up my bowl, it got murky within two days. Curiously, it did that again when I used new rocks in my fish bowl. I tested the ammonia, even though it had only been like 3 days, and sure enough, the ammonia was already at 1.0ppm. The only thing different from previous water changes (where the level was bearly even 0.5ppm after 8 days) is the new aquarium gravel. This has got to be it, but why? And if it's causing dangerous levels of ammonia in my system, shouldn't there be some warning on the package or something?

A: Ammonia itself is formed as the result of decaying organic matter. If you are not adding the ammonia yourself from a bottle or getting it from something alive (or once alive) in your aquarium then it must be coming from an outside source like your water. Rocks and gravel are not organic and cannot produce ammonia. It is not unusual, however, for your water supply to have some ammonia in it. There are a few common reasons why you may detect ammonia in your water even if you are not adding anything that creates ammonia (like fish or decaying plants or fish food).

1. Existing ammonia in your water supply. Many of us will find ammonia in our tap water if we test it directly from the sink. Registering .25 - .5 ppm (parts per million) is very common but others have indicated even larger concentrations of ammonia of up to 1.0 ppm directly from their tap water. It is a good idea to test your water from the tap a couple of times per year, especially in the spring when municipal water companies flush their water supply (sometimes this means an influx of chlorine or a spike in pH).

2. Another reason for finding ammonia in your tank when you haven’t added any fish or ammonia directly is the type of water conditioner you are using. First you need to understand how water is treated. These days most water is treated with chloramines. Chlorine is used too but the disadvantage of using chlorine is that it doesn’t last long. Once exposed to air chlorine quickly breaks down and no longer protects your drinking water from harmful bacteria. Chloramines are created from chemical bond between chlorine and ammonia. The old way of conditioning tap water for aquarium use was to just let it sit out in a bucket with an airstone in it. The chorine would break down after one day and it was safe to use. With today’s chloramine treated tap water the aeration method is no longer safe. Now we need water conditioners that treat chlorine and chloramines to make the water safe for our fish. Not all water conditioners are created equal. Some will break the chlorine/ammonia bond and neutralize the chlorine leaving the ammonia (NH3) in the tank. As you can imagine this ammonia is dangerous for your fish. I like to recommend Kordon’s AmQuel+ and NovAqua or a similar conditioner that not only breaks down the chlorine but also binds the ammonia into a non-harmful form. We call this binded form, which is not toxic to fish, ionized ammonia or ammonium (NH4+). If you don’t use a water conditioner that binds the ammonia then that ammonia will register on your ammonia test kit. You are basically creating the ammonia by separating the chlorine/ammonia bond every time condition your water.

3. The third reason you may be seeing ammonia in your empty tank is due to the type of ammonia test kit you are using. There are many brands of ammonia test kits and methods for testing ammonia but some test kits will test for just dangerous NH3 Ammonia while others measure the total ammonia; both NH3 and NH4+ ammonium which was described above. Ammonia test kits that measure both use the Nessler method. These test the total ammonia both harmful and binded form. If you add water conditioner to your aquarium that binds dangerous ammonia a Nessler based test kit will still register it on the test. This type of test kit might be useful if you are really interested in seeing what is going on in your tank while it is cycling. The nitrifying bacteria in your tank will consume both the dangerous ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4+).

If you don’t realize you are using a Nessler test kit you may be worried at the amount of ammonia you are seeing when really it is the nontoxic form that is registering high. The type of test ammonia test kit most people use is a Salicylate based ammonia test kit. This type measures only the dangerous ammonia (NH3) in our aquariums. I have sent an email to Aquarium Pharmaceuticals to get an official response regarding how you tell from the package if the test kit is Nessler or Salicylate based. I am curious if the box says NH3/NH4+ if it is Nessler based. I should hear back within a week and will repost.

To answer your question about nitrate test kits: when you are getting started dip-stick tests are fine. They are cheap and convenient and personally I believe that water testing is such an important part of fish care that I never want to discourage anyone from doing it. Reagent based test kits are better as they are definitely more accurate. Reagent based kits come with a test tube and one or more reagent bottles with various liquids for testing. The cost varies quite a bit on those depending on the brand and the type of test you are running (anywhere from $6 to $30 per kit- the higher price tag is usually for saltwater tests.) I use these kits and swear by them. That said; dip-stick tests are still better than not testing at all.

Betta Fish Poll Results: Which Common Betta Illness has you Stressed?

2009-06-22T17:09:00.001-07:00

tema röd, originally uploaded by miluhe.

In the last Nippyfish Poll we asked our readers; which common betta illness has you stressed? The results are in and they are all over the board.

54% (13 Votes) Fin Rot
25% (6 Votes) Swim Bladder Disorder
12% (3 Votes) Parasites (Ich, Velvet, Etc.)
20% (5 Votes) Fungus (Cotton Wool or Others)
20% (5 Votes) Dropsy
16% (4 Votes) Bacterial Infection (Septicemia, Popeye, open wounds)
8% (2 Votes) Other

It’s no surprise that more than half our readers are battling fin rot. Bettas, with their long and flowing fins, are prone to this bacterial infection which is caused by poor water quality. To prevent fin rot, test your aquarium water regularly for ammonia, keep up with your regular water changes and remove any uneaten food and waste from the tank bottom and anywhere that your betta may drag his tail fin. Most fin rot is minor and is treatable without medication. Minor fin rot consists of lightly tattered fins, bloody fin tips or pin holes. More severe fin rot may need to be treated with a wide spectrum antibiotic. We define severe fin rot as rapid or significant fin loss (more than half the fin has fallen away).

This weeks Betta Poll: Do you name your Betta Fish?

Selecting the Proper Sized Aquarium Heater for Your Fish Tank

2009-06-19T10:08:00.001-07:00

Soma, originally uploaded by J Koyanagi.

Q: MS wrote,

Great blog, I wonder if you could give me a little advice please.

I have a 5.5 gallon filtered aquarium with 1 betta. I am heating it with a 25w Hagen Elite which says on the pack it's right for the volume of water. Trouble is even when I turn it down to it's lowest setting I can't get the temperature as low as I'd like. I understand perfect temperature is around 80°F but on it's lowest setting the heater is holding the water at 86°F. Do you think my heater is broken or just not suitable? What would you recommend?

A: I too have found that most aquarium heaters tend to overheat rather than underheat. In fact I am dealing with the exact same thing. My new 100w heater, suggested for 30 gallons is keeping my water at about 80F even though it is set to the lowest it will go, which is 68F. This isn’t unusual as I recall my previous heater held my tank steady at 78F when it was set to just 70 degrees.

Aquarium heater manufacturers are making their recommendations based on actual water volume rather than the tanks maximum water volume. Once you add substrate, decorations and equipment much of the water volume is displaced. After taking into account all the displaced items in my aquarium my 30 gallon tank is really only about 25 gallons at most. In my case I probably would have been better off going with a 75 watt heater instead.

In your case, once you identify the actual water volume you may find that a 7.5 to 15 watt aquarium heater will better suit your needs. There is a little bit of guess work involved, which is why it is important to buy a heater with an adjustable temperature dial. Some circumstances out of your control can also affect the temperature including the ambient air temperature and your specific heater’s efficiency. Not all models are created equal so one 25 watt heater may warm your water more efficiently than another.

It can be a little tricky to find these mini heaters, at least here in the U.S. PetCo used to carry them but I couldn’t find them the last time I looked (quite some time ago). You may have better luck where you are. Either way, you can always find them online. You would think they would be more prevalent with the popularity Betta splendens and other small tropical fish.

Shatterproof Aquarium Heater is my new BFF

2009-06-17T15:52:00.000-07:00

I have gone through many different aquarium heaters over the years and my reason for buying a new one is always the same… because I have smashed the old one to bits. Any glass that goes in my aquarium will inevitably explode into a thousand tiny shards to nobody’s fault but my own. My old Ebo Jager 100 watt semi-submersible is the latest to fall prey to my carelessness. I decided last weekend to do a really thorough scrubbing of my larger aquarium – a spring cleaning if you will. I took out all of the tank décor and removed the heater so I could really scrape the glass clean in those hard-to-reach areas. Balancing the heater on the top of the tank I momentarily though better of its chosen resting place but dismissed my initial concern vowing to “pay attention to what I am doing and it will just fine sitting on the edge of the tank.”

Of course, 10 minutes later as I was wrestling with a particularly stubborn patch of lichenous algae I unintentionally elbowed the heater off the tank, across the room and into the wall with such gusto that I actually heard the impact even before my reflexes respond. I could even hear the light tinkering of tiny shards as they fell down the wall, across the furniture and onto the floor, like the sound of miniature wind chimes. The heater slid behind an old mirror coming to its final resting place out of immediate view. Oh the horror. Aquarium heaters, relative to the rest of the hobby, aren’t particularly expensive but Ebo-Jager has a reputation for being pretty top-of-the line, at least in terms of what you can easily find at your local fish store. When I bought it more than a few years ago I was sort of proud of it. Most of my aquarium supplies are hand-me-downs bough on Craigslist or from tropical fish club meetings and here I was investing in a nice new piece of equipment that would last me for years. I suppose I’m lucky I didn’t break it sooner.

The nice surprise is yesterday; my hunny (Mr. Nippyfish) called to say he was going to pick me up a new heater for my tank. He was the first to come running when he heard the eruption of glass hitting the wall and my subsequent string of four-letter words. I was more than pleased and when he asked what brand I liked (he’s not a fish guy) and of course went on about wanting another Ebo-Jager to replace the broken one. When he got home, however, what awaited me was a Marineland Visi-Therm Stealth Shatterproof aquarium heater. Hmmm, ok. I have had Marineland Visi-Therm heaters before. I’ve shattered many of them in fact. Back in the day they weren’t known for being particularly accurate and did have some problems getting stuck “ON”. They also didn’t used to be shatterproof. Still, I have never had a shatterproof heater before and I have to admit, if there was ever an ideal candidate for one, it would be me. Besides, it’s been awhile and this new heater will give me the chance to provide another product review. Tonight I will turn the heater on and will watch it closely over the coming weeks and months and with some luck for years to come.

Skittish Betta Fish Too Fightened to Eat

2009-06-15T12:47:00.001-07:00

, originally uploaded by prismaviolet.

Q: JY wrote,

I’m really hoping you can help me. I’ve had bettas before, but I’ve never seen anything like this. I’m at a total loss as to what to do. About a week and a half ago my betta, Billy Pilgrim, began acting like he was very scared of me. He has stopped eating, and anytime I walk up to his tank he goes crazy and swims around really fast until he finds his little cave and hides in it. He lives in a 5 gallon filtered tank. I don’t have a heater because I live in Florida, and his water temperature generally stays between 78 to 80 degrees. I’ve tested his water many times. Nitrates, nitrites, ammonia, and kh are all good. The ph is at 7.8. I did a partial water change, but it didn’t help. He has none of the physical symptoms of any of the typical diseases and seems to be swimming around just fine when I’m not near his tank. I can't really tell if he's lethargic because he won't come out of his cave when I'm in the room. The other day he began flaring at his reflection in the thermometer and began building a bubble nest. I thought these were good signs, but he stopped when I walked by his tank. I've only had him for a few months. I’m afraid he’s suffering and slowly starving to death.

A: Some bettas are more skittish than others. It sounds like your betta is fine until he sees you come near and then ducks for cover. This really isn’t anything to worry about as long as he is carrying on normally when he is alone. Flaring and bubblenest building are all good signs that he is healthy. There are a few things you can do to coax him out. First, approach the tank cautiously. Avoid heavy stepping, rapid movements and loud noises around the aquarium until your betta becomes more comfortable. Be consistent with your feeding. When you approach the tank drop a small piece of food in and wait quietly until he comes to retrieve it. If he is too frightened to pick up his food, walk away for 15 to 20 minutes. Come back to make sure he has eaten. If he has not eaten, remove the uneaten food and try again later. If you are worried that he is not eating at all you may have greater luck with live wiggly worms like black worms or blood worms, which you can purchase at many specialty aquarium stores. There is some extra care involved with keeping live foods, but they are hard for bettas to resist. If that is just too gross for you to handle, you may also find better luck feeding your betta frozen fish food. This may be temping enough for your betta to look beyond his fear. Over time, he will make the connection between you and food.

Changing his surrounding may also help him to relax. Adding a few extra plants (real or fake) to his tank and moving the tank to another location may help change the way he sees you when he looks out of his aquarium. It could be that with the lighting and tank location that you look intimidating when you come near. If this is not an option, try feeding him after dark with the room lights off and the tank light on. I have some skittish fish in my marine tank and the only way I can really watch them is after dark. When the room lights are off you can see them but they can’t see you.

Betta fish, Billy Pilgrim provided by J.Y.

Marble Betta Fish - Color Changing Genes

2009-06-11T15:17:00.001-07:00

, originally uploaded by prismaviolet.

In our last article we spoke about bettas that naturally change color over time. A Nippyfish reader wrote in concerned about some pretty serous color changes. Well, she sent in some photos of her betta fish and it became immediately obvious that she has a Marble Betta. “Mable” is used to describe a type of betta fish by its physical “marbled” appearance but more importantly by the special genes they have called, jumping genes or Transposons as they are now called.

These Transposons are what make marble bettas notorious color changers. Genes are responsible for a variety of things. With bettas, we study genes to understand and modify (through breeding) particular traits like color, pattern and fin style. A royal blue betta is blue because it has the blue gene. Transposons have the ability to do two important things that affect a betta’s color:

1. Insert itself into another gene and change its function. For example, it can insert itself into that same royal blue gene effectively saying “you no longer produce color” therefore changing its function. The gene no longer acts to produce the royal blue and the betta becomes colorless in part. Some jumping genes can also change the color which means some bettas can go from one color to a completely different color over time.

2. The second important function of a jumping gene is its ability to… well… jump of course. Through the chromosomes these genes can move reinserting itself into other genes. This is what allows a marble betta to change continuously over the course of its life. Let’s go back to the example of the royal blue betta. The blue gene was overridden by the Transposons creating a loss of pigment. When the jumping gene moves on, the blue gene returns to its normal function and the blue pigment returns. When the jumping gene moves to another location, it may then override the function of the new gene.

It is my understanding that the Transposons is a genetic trait specific to marbled bettas, which makes them more likely to illustrate a greater variance of color change throughout their lives. For hobbyists, keeping marbled betta fish is fun and exciting. For betta breeders, these can create unique challenges as it is difficult to predict what they will get. Over time, some marbled bettas may turn completely solid or loose color entirely.

Our Reader's marbled betta fish 6 Months ago

The same betta 3 months ago

The vary same betta today

Bright Colored Betta Fish - Vibrant Healthy Bettas

2009-06-09T18:07:00.001-07:00

Gold Betta, originally uploaded by sponytales2000.

Q: D wrote,

I've looked around the net quite a bit and haven't found an answer to this one. As you're the enthusiast, perhaps you'll know. My betta started out life completely white with a red dot on his tail. After finding a nice home in my 20g tank with a few other social fish, he blossomed and turned gorgeous colors. And what I say turned, I mean it! He's been many different colors; the only thing that's been constant is that little red dot. At the moment, he's mostly all black including his lips. Is this normal? Please tell me my fish is just super happy and putting on a gorgeous display for my family and me. I'd love to hear what you think.

A: It is not at all unusual for bettas to change colors over the short and long term. Betta fish that have been living on a store shelf are often pale versions of themselves. This bland coloration is the result of stress caused by a small container, poor water quality and low water temperature. Once the fish is acclimated to a better living condition their true colors will come out (both literally and in terms of personality too). Within the first few days and weeks in clean warm water the fish will become bright and lively. This is a signal to you that you are doing a good job caring for your betta.

Bettas may also change color over the long term. Over the years your betta’s dominate color may begin to change. In some fish this change may be slight. A bright red betta, for example may begin to show some black coloration around his head but will often stay mainly red. Other bettas may show more extreme color changes. I had a green and blue betta that over the years transformed into a dark red. I have also seen young white bettas over time develop striking blue or pink coloration in their fins.

Often bettas will change color in certain parts of the body. Most common areas for color change are the head region. The crown of the head will often change to a dark black in darker colored bettas or a yellow or rust color in lighter betta fish. The area under the mouth often changes too. As a betta ages you may notice a graying or blander coloration. Betta fish keepers often refer to this as the “betta beard,” a sign that your fish is becoming an old man. The fins often change color too, particularly the tail fin (also called the caudal fin), the dorsal and anal fins. The pectoral and pelvic fins don’t typically have noticeable color changes.

Rapid color changes from bright vibrant color to dull or pale color may be a signal that your betta is sick. If you notice this sort of color change keep an eye out for other signs of disease and test your water.

It sounds to me that your betta has been through quite a change. I don’t think I have ever seen a betta go from white to black. If you have photos from before and after email them in and I will post them on the blog for all to see. This goes for any of our readers. Feel free to send in your color changing betta photos.

Here are mine:
Christie's Betta at 1 Year Old
Christie's Betta, Flash, at 3 Years Old

Christie's Betta, Bone, when I first got him.
Bone, later in life showing his golden crown.

Top 7 Betta Fish Myths - Don't Make These Common Mistakes with your Fighting Fish

2009-06-08T16:02:00.001-07:00

Betta - Front, originally uploaded by Rhizae.

1. Betta fish are lazy and don’t do much.

A healthy betta is an active betta. Bettas constantly explore their surrounding and spend most of their day swimming all around their aquarium. They often respond to their owners by begging for food and wiggling their tails too. If your betta just lays around not doing much, perform the standard water tests checking the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH levels. Make sure the aquarium water is warm enough for your betta. Water that is too cool will slow the cold-blooded bettas’ metabolism down making him more sluggish.

2. Betta tanks don’t need heaters.

Whether or not you need a heater depends on the ambient air temperature of the room and the likelihood of temperature fluctuations. Bettas are tropical fish and need a warm, stable water temperature of about 78 F (25.5 C). A couple degrees warmer or cooler is fine as long as it is stable. Large fluctuations in temperature can be stressful for fish, which don’t have the ability to regulate their own temperature.

3. You should feed your betta as much as he can eat in 3 minutes.

You can often find this statement in the directions on a package of standard fish food; however, betta fish if given the chance will eat 3 Big Macs, a double side of fries, a chocolate shake and an apple pie in 3 minutes if you give them the chance. Bettas are easy to overfeed and the result is usually a bloated abdomen. The stomach of a betta is about as big as one of his eyeballs. Feed your betta an eyeball-size amount of food one to two times daily. For an adult male betta, that is about 3 or 4 small pellets or bloodworms. Observe your betta for a healthy weight. Bettas constantly overfed will look fat throughout their entire body and underfed bettas will look too thin.

4. Live and frozen fish foods are too rich for daily feeding.

What does this even mean? Too rich? It’s not chocolate cake. In fact, live and frozen fish foods are closer to a betta’s natural diet than factory made pellets or flake food. There are pros and cons to both but there is no evidence that frozen or live fish foods need to be fed sparingly. As long as you offer your betta a variety of live and frozen foods to ensure a balanced diet, these foods can be fed every day if you want.

5. Keeping a betta in a small container makes it feel safe.

Have you ever asked a betta what makes it feel safe? I guarantee it won’t answer you. This myth comes from a misunderstood idea of their natural environment in the rice patties, rivers and shallow streams of Asia. Bettas have a natural adaptation that allow it to breathe in shallow, low-oxygenated water. This does not mean that it’s natural environment consists of just a few cups of water. Many of these shallow areas spread on for miles. They are also a complete ecosystem capable of breaking down fish waste as it is being produced. Keeping a betta in too small of a container puts him at risk for toxic poisoning from his own waste. I have yet to find a container large enough to frighten my betta, but when I do I will certainly let you all know.

6. Bettas don’t need filtered tanks.

Bettas don’t have any special powers that make them impervious to toxins from decaying organic matter (fish waste, food, plant matter, etc.) They are really no different from any other fish in this matter. To be honest, with their thin fragile fins, I think they are more susceptible to environmental stressors than many commonly kept tropical fish. Whether or not you decide to install a filter depends on how you want to handle your maintenance routine. Unfiltered, uncycled tanks will need more water changes and water testing then filtered and cycled tanks.

7. Bettas can’t be kept with other fish because they will fight to the death.

Male bettas shouldn’t be kept with other male bettas because they will fight to the death… well, not the death… but they will fight to the missing scales, open wounds, inflamed gills and stress-induced secondary infection. It doesn’t sound as dramatic as “fight to the death” but ultimately it can end the same way. This doesn’t mean that bettas can’t be kept with fish of other species though. Many bettas can do well with other small tropical species of a gentle nature. Female bettas can often be kept with other females or with other species of compatible fish. Research each species before establishing a community tank.

Betta Fish Poll Results: How Many Betta Fish Do You Currently Own?

2009-06-02T16:20:00.001-07:00

Bettas, originally uploaded by The Wandering Angel.

The answers to the last Betta Poll are in: How many betta fish do you currently own? The majority of our betta readers own one betta fish currently but almost as many of you have been bitten by the betta bug and own multiple bettas. A few of you don’t have any bettas yet. Kudos to you for researching before you take the plunge into betta care. Even betta breeders stop by the Nippyfish blog. Welcome to you and all your betta fish too.

6% (2 Votes) Currently own 0 Bettas
50% (16 Votes) Currently own 1 Betta
40% (13 Votes) Currently own 2 – 5 Bettas
0% (0 Votes) Currently own 6 –10 Bettas
0% (0 Votes) Currently own more than 10 Bettas
0% (1 Vote) I’m a Breeder, Too Many to Count

This week’s Betta Fish Poll: Which common betta illness has you stressed?

Cycling a Small Aquarium

2009-05-27T11:46:00.001-07:00

Betta tank, originally uploaded by deedoucette.

Q: CD wrote,

I'd like to keep my water as stable as possible, and cycling a tank seems to be the best way to do that, from what I'm reading online. But I have a small "tank" for my fish, and no real place for anything bigger (we live in a small condo). Someone at one of the big-name pet stores says she has gotten the nitrogen cycle going in her (many) betta bowls - 1/2 gallon size!! Is this possible to do safely? She claims she's had her fish (plural) for 2+ years and that she only does water changes (not full) once a month because of the nitrogen cycle. I thought a filter was necessary to establish this, but she says not.

I'm tempted to experiment with this (in another tank, of course), but was wondering what others with more knowledge and experience on this subject might think first. If I could get a nitrogen cycle going, that seems like it would be great for both my fish and my plant.

Any thoughts?

A:Cycling a tank for your betta is a great idea. It creates a more stable and safer environment for your fish and is also a pretty cool science experiment. You’ll learn a lot just by cycling your tank.

Technically you can cycle any size body of water from as large as an ocean to as small as teaspoon. Though it might seem counter-intuitive, larger bodies of water are easier to maintain. When we all start out with fish we say; “I want something small that won’t be a lot of work.” The irony is that small tanks are more work requiring more frequent water changes and monitoring. Don’t let this deter you from cycling your small aquarium though. A fully cycled small aquarium is still easier to maintain than one that has not gone through the nitrogen cycle.

Less maintenance doesn’t mean no maintenance. You will still need to perform water changes, though the consequences of missing one become less severe and you will still need to test your tank’s water, though much less often. How often you will need to do water changes depends on how fast nitrates rise in your tank. Nitrates are the byproduct of a cycled tank. Much like ammonia, nitrate will rise based on many factors but it is not nearly as dangerous as super-toxic ammonia to your fish. Some factors that affect the rise in nitrates are:

The volume of water you have
The number of fish you are keeping
The species of fish you are keeping
Your filtration
The type of food you are feeding
The quantity of food you are feeding
Decaying organic matter in your tank

Admittedly I am a little skeptical about what the fish store lady told you. I imagine that the nitrates were pretty high in that tank and it probably took quite awhile to cycle without a filter. I’ll give her the benefit of the doubt though.

Ideally, you should have a filter running. It will not only help to remove debris from your tank but it will become, literally, a breeding ground for beneficial nitrifying bacteria. The bacteria will cling to all surfaces of your tank, including the substrate and plants, but it will be concentrated in your filter media. Having a filter will also aerate the water and will help speed up the cycling process.

The nitrogen cycle is a completely natural process and will occur in your tank even if you do nothing at all. In the old days of aquarium keeping, many fish keepers set up a tank with some cheap fish and let the entire process take place, which would often leave the cycling fish sick or dead. I personally, don’t advocate that and would rather use the fishless cycling method, or even better, would recommend seeding a tank with filter media from an already established tank. This is the fastest and easiest method for tank cycling.

Symptoms of Dropsy in Betta Fish

2009-05-21T10:36:00.001-07:00

IMG_7032 Sunny Bloat, originally uploaded by duckyduck.

Dropsy is not a disease itself, but rather a symptom of another problem. Dropsy is the term we use to describe the severe bloating or pinecone appearance our betta fish take on as a result of organ failure. It is generally believed by fish keepers that Dropsy can be caused by a variety of things including bacterial diseases, viruses or even parasites. You will sometimes hear stories of Dropsy being terribly contagious and killing off many fish at a time. Technically, this isn’t true. The initial infection may be contagious and may infect several fish leading to multiple cases of Dropsy, but the Dropsy itself is not contagious. More often than not, Dropsy pops up in our fish tanks as an isolated incident. This is especially true with betta keepers as they typically keep their fish in isolated containers.

While any fish can get Dropsy, it seems to affect Betta Fish and Goldfish the most. I’m not sure exactly why that is but I have some speculations. First, I suspect there is something about their physiology that predisposes them to organ failure. What that is, I couldn’t say. Perhaps it is that both bettas and goldfish have been so intensely bred for their physical traits that they have become more susceptible to stressors. Secondly, these fish may be exposed to poor water conditions more often than most other aquarium fish. Bettas and goldfish are both commonly kept by beginner aquarists and may then be open to more mistakes made by new hobbyists. The other major stressor both have in common is that they are frequently kept in tanks too small for them. Fish stores often sell bettas in small bowls without educating the buyers to the dangers of ammonia and nitrite poisoning. Goldfish too are often poisoned by their own waste. Goldfish are very messy and excrete a large amount of waste for their size. Each medium sized goldfish should have at least 10 gallons of water but they are often kept in tanks much smaller. Aquarium conditions may just be the reason we see Dropsy so often in bettas and goldfish.

The symptoms of Dropsy are many; bloating, extended scales, color loss, loss of appetite, lethargy, clamped fins, swim bladder disorder, etc. I want to focus on the two tell-tale signs – bloating and pineconing. I regularly receive emails from readers indicating that their betta has one symptom but not the other. It is important to understand that these symptoms are not mutually exclusive. Your betta may have one or both or maybe even neither of these symptoms but could still have Dropsy.

SEVERE BLOATING

Image provided by JohnstonDJ through Creative Commons

It could also be that your betta is severely bloated but does not have Dropsy at all. Bloating can be the result of overfeeding, or in females, can be that they are bound with eggs. In rare cases the bloating could be a tumor. Very severe bloating of the abdomen is usually the result of organ failure and caused when fluid builds internally. In my experience, I have not seen bettas with both pineconed scales and severe abdominal bloating. Do not discount Dropsy just because you do not see protruding scales.

PROTRUDING SCALES – PINECONE

Protruding scales, commonly referred to as pineconing because of the appearance, is the most common symptom associated with Dropsy. This symptom is prevalent in both bettas and goldfish. Pineconing indicates a serious problem. In bettas, it often indicates severe organ failure and death to follow. In some cases bettas will appear to recover from this state. Once the internal organs have been damaged, symptoms of Dropsy usually return within a few months. To my knowledge, pineconing is not associated with any other betta fish illness. I see it is a positive sign that the fish has Dropsy.

Is CopperSafe Safe? - Treating Velvet Disease Safely

2009-05-19T14:01:00.001-07:00

HM Red M - Sarawut, originally uploaded by Daniella Vereeken.

Q: A wrote,

After many days of guessing and hair-pulling, I think I finally figured out what's been wrong with my little guy. I'm pretty sure he has velvet. I checked for velvet already, last week, but I didn't see anything. And then, two nights ago, I checked him again with a flashlight just for the hell of it, and I saw a yellowish metallic coloring all over his body. I've never had any experience with velvet but I'm assuming that’s what it is. I gave him the recommended dose of CopperSafe two days ago and I’m keeping his tank away from light but I haven't seen any improvement in him yet. He is still lying on the very bottom of the tank barely moving and his coloring is still very brownish. Fortunately, he never lost his appetite...the little glutton! The CopperSafe box says that one dose of the medication is good for a month. Does that mean I shouldn't give it to him again for a whole month? Somehow I can't see that being enough to cure him. Do you recommend a different treatment/product for velvet? And how often should I do the water changes now that we know it’s velvet? Should I be doing them more frequently or will that dilute the medication? As always, thanks for your time!

A:CopperSafe is a potent parasite treatment and when dosed properly can be very effective. Like any fish medication, it has its pros and cons. Your question regarding the dosing of Coppersafe is one that often baffles aquarists and unfortunately hasn’t been addressed by Mardel. (At least not that I have found). The Coppersafe bottle says;

“One application treats water for one month. DO NOT overdose.”

Of course no responsible fish keeper would go an entire month without performing one or several water changes. This begs the question, how often and how much should I re-dose? When you do a partial water change you will remove some of the copper medication with the toss water. Replacing some of the CopperSafe may be necessary to keep the medicine at the therapeutic level. Copper, however, is a very toxic and dangerous material. An overdose can be lethal to your fish. For this reason, conservative fish keepers would caution anyone choosing to use a copper-based medicine to also use a copper water test kit. This is truly the safest way to treat with CopperSafe and ensure you are getting the correct level of medicine. My cautions don’t end here though. Copper is more toxic when present in acidic water. Water is acidic when it has a pH less than 7.0. Water with low carbonate hardness (KH) can also create a risky situation when treated with copper-based medicine. KH (also called buffering capacity) is what keeps your pH stable. When KH is low then your pH is more likely to drop quickly making your water acidic. Again, acidic water makes copper more toxic to fish.

So to recap, I will say this… Copper-based anti-parasite medications, like Mardel’s Coppersafe, can work great under the right conditions. It should be used by fish keepers willing and able to test their water’s pH, KH and copper levels. Since you have treated him already, you may want to run a few water tests and if they come out ok, monitor your fish for improvement over the next several days. On the other hand, if you don’t feel comfortable using copper meds or don’t have the ability or willingness to test your water, you may want to consider an alternative like Kordon’s RidIch+ or Aquarium Products’ QuICK Cure which both contain formalin and malachite green as their active ingredients.

If our readers have any experience with copper based medications we'd love to hear your stories. Let us know what has worked for you.

Betta Poll Results: What Do You Mainly Feed Your Betta Fish?

2009-05-14T16:51:00.001-07:00

Betta Macrostoma, originally uploaded by aaronKoo**.

The answers to the last Betta Poll are in: What Do You Mainly Feed Your Betta Fish? Once again our readers have turned to the polls to tell us what they use to nourish their betta fish. This week, readers could select more than once answer and the results taught us that most Nippyfish readers feed their bettas a combination of pellets and flake or freeze dried foods. Only a few of you are opting to incorporate frozen and live foods into your bettas’ diets.

While there are advantages and disadvantages to all types of betta foods I’d like to take this opportunity to encourage our readers to add more frozen and live foods to their betta’s diet. These foods are closer to what your betta would eat naturally, they contain a lot of moisture and are less likely to cause bloating and bettas love the taste. Brine shrimp, tubifex, bloodworms, blackworms, mysis shrimp or beef heart are just a few of the many live and frozen options suitable for your betta.

78% (18 Votes) Commercial Fish Pellets (Like Hikari Bio-Gold or similar)
34% (8 Votes) Commercial Flake Food
56% (13 Votes) Freeze Dried Fish Food
17% (4 Votes) Frozen Fish Foods
2% (2 Votes) Live Food (Brine Shrimp, black worms, tubifex, etc)

This week’s Betta Fish Poll: How many betta fish do you currently own?

Antibiotics for your Aquarium Fish

2009-05-13T11:54:00.001-07:00

Betta, originally uploaded by keijock.

PL wrote,

I read your article on SBD (swim bladder disorder) and I would like to know which anti-bacteria meds would be best.

A: I’m afraid it’s the usual answer, “it depends”. Different antibiotics treat different bacteria. Some treat gram-negative and some treat gram-positive bacterial infections. Beyond that, some are better for internal infections and others for open wounds or external infections. Since we virtually never have the means to test our fish, selecting the best antibiotic is often done using a combination of common sense and luck.

Obviously, if you suspect a bacterial infection that is affecting the swim bladder, you want something that will treat the infection internally. If your fish is still eating, a medicated fish food is usually the best option. Jungle makes Anti-Bacteria Medicated Fish Food that you can find easily online and in some fish stores. There are others out there too but medicated fish foods can be hard to find. It seems just when a good one pops up and catches on, the manufacturers discontinue it.

Another option is to treat the water itself. Since most infections are gram-negative I usually start with an appropriate antibiotic like Mardel’s Maracyn-Two or Maracyn-TC which you can now buy in powder form. Often what I will do is dissolve the pill in a small concentration of tank water and soak the food pellets in it for a few minutes. I pour the medicine mixture in the tank following any directions for filter removal, and give the soaked pellet to the fish. This is less than scientific but it is always my goal to get the medicine into the fish. Another good broad spectrum antibiotic is Triple-Sulfa. It’s a good all around medication treating internally and externally.

Some medications treat both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria. This is also an option for you to consider. On one hand it may seem like over-medicating but when you don’t know what is wrong with your fish, it can be a viable option. Mardel’s Maracyn and Maracyn-Two can be used in conjunction and are easily found at most local fish stores and large pet supply retailers.

Internal Parasites and Swim Bladder Disorder in Betta Fish

2009-05-12T09:32:00.001-07:00

Laverne's color has also developed quite a bit., originally uploaded by Krista76.

CM wrote

I have a one year old red VT betta, Baron. He was such an active guy, great personality, flared nearly all night long (would only flare at night with the room lights off and his tank light on), and ate like a champ.

About six weeks ago, he began to have some grayish patches on his sides, like a saddle. I thought he had fungus and I treated him with Maracyn II first, along with Maracyn. No better. I then tried Fungus Clear and he seemed to clear up. Throughout all that, he never lost his spunk or his appetite.

Then I noticed that he was not pooping much. I have two bettas and religiously siphon out waste every morning with a turkey baster. He didn't seem any worse for the wear and when he did poop, the poops were huge. I cut back on his food. (He eats Spectrum Thera A Color enhancing with Garlic, Betta Bites, an occasional blood worm) The routine was two pieces in the morning and two to three pieces at night, varying what I would feed.

About three weeks ago, when the lights went out, he did not flare. He seemed less active every day. He now definitely has Swim Bladder. It breaks my heart to see him like this!? He is nearly always on his side, at the top, looking very depressed. I can arouse him and he will swim a little bit, but I can definitely tell it's a buoyancy issue. His swim bladder does look a little puffy to me, maybe more so on the right side. He seems very gassy and burps out big bubbles, usually after one of these "swim abouts", which last about a minute. He is still eating, but not without me hand feeding him basically. I tried fasting, peas, everything! He is now pooping everyday but the poop looks a little mucousy. I drove an hour away to get him live brine shrimp but it's hard for him to get them because they go right to the bottom and he cannot swim more than half way down his tank.

He lives in an Explorer II tank, with filtration and a heater. Temp is always 80-84ish. He has one live plant and a cave that he used to love sitting in with his little head poking out of the holes. I check his water parameters like a hawk and about two weeks after this started, found the ammonia level suddenly high and did a complete water change. I have done two complete water changes since the ammonia issue, and several partials. I always use spring water for changes and aquarium salt with the complete water changes. I have lowered the water level for him so that he is now in about one gallon of water. His red color in the tails is still quite vibrant, but his body may look a little duller. His chin is a little pale.

He is more and more on his side, we have started to call him the flounder. Is there any hope that he will recover. He responds when we come to the tank and talk to him. He still eats and poops, but again not with the voracity he once had. I don't have a problem hand feeding him. Is there anything else I can try? I just want my little flarin' Baron back!

What are your thoughts on a product called Betta Revive, or epsom salt baths? Would a light massage along the swim bladder area help to move any gas that would be trapped in there? I am desperate to help my poor baby! I would think if the issue was bacterial or other, he would have been long gone by now. He's such a little fighter, I can't give up on him.

I have owned bettas for about eight years; my longest liver was six years old. (RIP Fish Pish). But Baron has certainly been the biggest entertainer I have ever had.Your thoughts and help are most appreciated.

A It sounds like it could be a swim bladder infection, possibly due to an internal parasitic or bacterial infection. There are a few things I should mention first before I get into my theory. A betta’s swim bladder is a gas filled sack located near the fish’s tail. It is normal for it to protrude to some degree. Swim bladders are usually visible in betta fish. I definitely DO NOT recommend attempting to massage gas from the swim bladder. Its reason for existing is to contain gases that help the fish swim upright. Attempting to alter the function of the swim bladder could cause irreversible harm.

You mentioned that your betta’s waste has changed and appears to be more mucus-like. This could signal an infection due to parasites or bacteria. Keep in mind that bettas have a good immune system able to fight off many diseases. So having an infection wouldn’t necessarily kill him. He may just be trying to fight it off. Again, this makes me wonder if he has parasites rather than bacteria. (I really can’t be sure). My other theory is that you may be over-salting your water when you do water changes, which could affect your betta’s ability to control his buoyancy through osmosis.

Salt is not necessary to add to your aquarium water. Some people add it when there is ammonia or nitrite present to help the fish breathe easier but typically it isn’t necessary. It is important to note that salt does not evaporate. The only way to remove it is to remove the water itself. It is a common mistake for fish keepers to add a full dose of salt to their aquarium at each partial water change. For example; say on day 1 you dose your 10 gallon aquarium with 1 tablespoon of salt; on day 7 you do a 50% water change. You should only then dose with ½ tablespoon of salt. If you do the full dose again you will have 1.5 tablespoons of salt which is too much. Repeating this mistake over time could lead to buoyancy and other health problems in your betta fish. This isn’t to say that you are dosing incorrectly. I’m just putting it out there as a possibility.

I’ve never used Betta Revive but from what I can see the active ingredients are salt, Methylene Blue and Malachite Green. All these ingredients are effective against fungus and external parasites. It is less effective on internal bacterial infections and internal parasites. I’m not sure that this will help. Epsom salt baths are effective to reduce swelling in fish with dropsy due to kidney failure. Unless your betta is severely swollen, I don’t think it will help at this time.

There is no way to say for sure what is causing the swim bladder problems in your betta. You may have luck trying Jungle’s Parasite Clear, which I know does treat internal parasites. It’s also possible that the problem is bacterial or due to physical injury to the swim bladder, in which case hand feeding Baron may be the only option. It may take a little time to figure out what is causing the problem with your betta.

Betta Fish Poll Results: Will You Continue to Buy Veil Tail Bettas?

2009-05-08T08:23:00.001-07:00

Just one biiig bite and..., originally uploaded by Mean and Pinchy.

The answers to the last Betta Poll are in: Will You Continue to Buy Veil Tail Bettas? The masses have spoken and despite the greatly reduced numbers of veil tail bettas available at large commercial fish stores, betta keepers are still interested in buying these fish.

57% (11 Votes) Definitely, Veil Tails are a classic
21% (4 Votes) Probably, If I find the right one
10% (2 Votes) Not likely, I’m mostly into more exotic bettas
5% (1 Vote) No, Fancy bettas are too beautiful to resist
5% (1 Vote) There are different types of bettas?

This week’s Betta Fish Poll: What do you mainly feed your betta fish? With all the food options available, let us know what your bettas are eating.

Moving Your Aquarium Fish

2009-05-07T17:10:00.001-07:00

Fish in plastic bags loaded on a bike, originally uploaded by Jungle_Boy.

Q: TF wrote,

My wife and I will be moving in a few weeks to a new home. It's about a half hour drive from our current place, but I was wondering if you could offer any advice on how to best move my male betta and his tank (separately of course :). It's a 5 gallon tank with a heater, sponge filter, some silk plants and gravel.

My biggest concerns are keeping the lil' guy safe, unstressed and as happy as possible during the move, but I'm also very concerned about the filter being off for that long - if it will kill too many of the good bacteria in the tank and cause it to go through a cycle period again.

A: I frequently get emails from betta owners seeking advice about how to move their fish, especially this time of year when students are leaving school. Exactly how to move your betta safely and effectively varies depending on the size of the aquarium or fish bowl, distance travel and mode of transportation. Even seasonal temperatures may effect how you travel with your fish. I myself have moved fish several times from 300 to 3000 miles away. Here are a few tips to help you safely move your betta.

Moving Fish - Moving fish is more about time spent in the container rather than the distance traveled. If moving your betta fish is expected to take less than a few hours by car I might suggest putting him in a betta cup like the one you likely purchased him in. I often keep one or two lying around for just such an occasion. If you have tossed your old betta cup ask your local fish store for one. These containers usually fit right into your car’s cup holder, where you can keep a close eye on your betta. Avoid excessive heat and cold from the sun or heater/AC unit. Never leave your betta unattended in a hot (or cold) car. Temperatures can reach 120 degrees in the sun, which can quickly kill your betta fish.

Another great method for storing your betta for a move is in plastic fish bags like those you buy most fish in at your local fish store. I bought a small package from the International Betta Congress (IBC) years ago which have lasted me years and countless moves. Put the fish in the bag with a few inches of water and capture as much air as possible in the rest of the bag. Remember, bettas require oxygen from the air to breathe so get as much air in the bag as possible. Close with a rubber band and double-bag. Fish stores add compressed air to the bag directly which helps to maximize the amount of time a fish can live in the bag. They often are shipped from one side of the world to the other spending a couple of days in these bags. This method can be used for short distance travel or long distance. When mailing your fish long distance you will need an insulated box, live fish shipping labels, and possibly heating or cooling packs depending on the time of year. You will also need to contact your local shipping company for rules and regulations regarding shipping live fish. Please note too that shipping your fish increases the risk for illness or death. If you have the ability to carry your fish with you, I suggest it. Fish shipping bags can be purchased online or you can ask your local fish store if they will give you a couple free.

One more thing to note, before shipping your fish long distance, is fast him for a day or two to minimize waste in the water. Because betta fish are shipped in very little water they can quickly become overwhelmed by toxic ammonia.

If you don’t have any betta cups or plastic bags you can move your betta fish in sealable Tupperware or even in the aquarium itself by reducing the water level to just a few inches. Have a friend or family member carry the fish on his lap. This works fine for small distances.

Moving the Tank - The work involved in moving a fish tank can vary greatly due to the tank size and distance traveled. Obviously a small bowl is much easier to move than a large-scale aquarium. For a smaller 5 gallon aquarium that is well established (meaning it has a good colony of beneficial nitrifying bacteria) you should first disconnect the filter, heater and any other elements. Remove and properly pack your fish (see above). Drain most of the water with a siphon or bucket leaving enough water to keep your substrate and plants wet. Usually a couple of inches of water is fine. If you have a HOB (Hang on Back) filter with filter bags and media, go ahead and remove the bag and place it in the tank so that it remains wet. Some debris may get into your tank but you can filter it back out later. Canister filters can be disconnected and typically moved as is. Filters vary greatly so you may need to asses your situation individually. The tank, plants, substrate and filter media can then be placed in your car or moving truck. Secure well so that it doesn’t move and so that nothing will fall on top of it. This method works well for shorter distances. I moved my aquariums this way half way down the East Coast in the back of a UHaul with no issue. I placed my fish in Tupperware containers within the aquariums, stopping to check the water temperature every hour and a half.

The bacteria in your filter media will not quickly die off. I have kept mine out of the tank, submerged in aquarium water, for up to a week when I need to treat a tank with antibiotics. A couple of days out of the tank could cause your aquarium to go through a mini-cycle but a couple of hours will have no adverse effect on your filter bacteria.

For large aquariums over long distances I recommend one of two things. Have a professional aquarium moving company crate your tank and ship it for you. You will need to ship your fish and plants ahead of you and set up your aquarium from scratch. Moving a tank can be costly. In many cases it is cheaper to buy a new aquarium than to have it shipped by a pro. The tank itself is relatively inexpensive compared to all the accessories like lighting, tank stand, filters, etc. It cost me about $100 (less tip) to move my 30 gallon tank from the East Coat to the West Coast in 2007. It would have cost me about the exact same to buy the tank new so for me it was a wash. You’ll need to assess the cost benefits for yourself.

Fish on a Plane - People ask me all the time about taking their fish on an airplane. I don’t suggest it. Most airlines don’t distinguish between fish and dogs or cats so you will still get hit with the hefty fee of $80 or more plus you will have to carefully review the guidelines of the individual carrier. Your plane ticket will often cost more too as you will need to book directly over the phone with the airline rather than utilizing the popular online booking companies that typically give you a better rate. You may also be subject to TSA fluid restrictions as well.

This guide to moving your betta fish is far from complete. There are as many ways of moving fish as there are fish that need moving. If you have moved your fish, let us know how you did it.

Betta Fish and Well Water - Conditioning Well Water for Aquariums

2009-04-29T12:54:00.001-07:00

Betta fish named Shelbi by BS
BS wrote,

First off I would like to say that your website has been the most resourceful betta page I have ever found and I will be checking in very regularly; it has helped me so much! I am so excited to have found it. I have one question that might be a silly one but I haven't found an answer on the web or in books so I thought I'd give it a shot. I have recently purchased a new betta fish. I live in Oregon where the water is extremely clean. At our house we have Well Water. My question is, do I still have to use a water conditioner or anything in the water? I have had him for about two weeks in a ten gallon tank with a heater around 78-79 degrees and in the water from our sink that comes from a well- he is thriving and eating perfectly. He swims around his tank constantly and explores everything; he seems to be very healthy.

I also have two large plastic plants, will these tear his fins? This has not been a problem so far but I wouldn't want to risk it. I attached a couple of photos of him, his name is Shelbi.

A: Thanks for all the kind words. This is a common concern of betta keepers who are utilizing water from a well. The answer to whether or not well water is better for bettas is yes and no. Or really, it depends. If you are filling your aquarium with well water you don’t have the same concerns as others who are living off the municipal water supply. Well water isn’t typically treated with chlorine or chloramines, unless you are treating it yourself, which is a major concern for aquarists as it is extremely toxic to fish. When we condition our tap water, we aren’t only treating for these two items though. Most water conditioners are also detoxifying dangerous heavy metals. These heavy metals, such as lead, zinc and copper may still be present in your well water and may still pose a threat to your fish. Not all well water is high in heavy metals (not all tap water either for matter) so I can not be sure if it is an issue for you. Many aquarium hobbyists keep fish in untreated well water for many years without issue. All I can tell you is that heavy metal poisoning is a possibility. If your betta has been ok so far he may continue to be fine. You’ll have to decide if you want to treat for heavy metals. If you do, you may find Kordon’s Rid-Metals to be a good product for you. It is a single bottle that treats just heavy metals, unlike Kordon’s AmQuel+ and NovAqua which treat chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals in combination. Local fish stores are beginning to carry it more or you can use my old fall back for fish supplies by ordering at Drs Foster & Smith.

How to Feed Frozen Brine Shrimp to your Betta Fish

2009-04-28T13:53:00.000-07:00

Frozen Brine Shrimp in a Cube Pack
BL wrote,

I really enjoy and rely on your site, and wondered if you're still taking questions. I got some frozen brine shrimp in a grid of little packets and am wondering what I do with it - how long will it take the betta to eat through one packet, and should I keep that portion in the fridge or the freezer? How to chip off a portion? Do I let it thaw to room temperature?

Sorry, I know this is a pretty small question and one that I will eventually figure out myself, but I'm a new fish owner and don't want to do anything wrong.

A: Brine shrimp is an excellent food for your betta fish as part of a balanced diet. Frozen brine shrimp, like those made by San Francisco Bay Brand or Hikari are most often sold as flat packs or in individual portioned cubes like the one you are describing. For a betta fish, one cube can go a long way, often lasting a week or more. When feeding in conjunction with other foods, one pack can last a year for one fish if stored properly.

Frozen Food Storage: The big name brands carefully sterilize their frozen fish foods to kill off any harmful bacteria that can make your fish sick. Assuming they were transported correctly and quickly stored by the fish store staff, the frozen fish food you receive is safe for your betta. The cube packs melt quickly however, and should be stored in your freezer as soon as possible. I recommend transporting them in a cooler to avoid thawing, especially in warm weather. Refreezing thawed meet (even brine shrimp) does increase your chances of spreading bacteria to your betta.

Portioning: Bettas are prone to bloating and overeating so small portion sizes are key. One portion of betta food should be about the size of his eyeball. This amount can be fed two or three times per day. I am often only able to feed my bettas once per day so I tend to feed just a little more, perhaps twice the size of their eyeballs each day. If your betta appears bloated after feeding, reduce your portion sizes.

I’m sure if you asked 20 people how they divvy-up their frozen brine shrimp cubes you would get 20 different answers. Here’s how I do it… I pop one frozen cube from the package and put it in a zip-lock sandwich bag. Positioning it on the counter in the center of the bag, I VERY lightly tap it with a hammer a few times. Because of all the meat in the cube it tends to crush rather than splinter like an ice cube. If you hit it too hard you will either damage your countertop or send the cube shooting through the bag, across your kitchen’s bar top, past your living room furniture where it will bounce off your glass patio door and onto the floor where it will quickly be investigated by your cats. So I don’t recommend hitting it too hard.

Assuming you’ve crushed it easily with a hammer (rolling pin does the trick too) you can scoop out a small portion with a tooth pick and feed it directly to your fish or swish it around his tank so that it breaks up in little pieces. If he likes the brine shrimp, which most do, he will hunt down all the little pieces and continue searching for more long after he has eaten every bit. The brine shrimp melt almost immediately upon entering the water so thawing is unnecessary in most cases. The remainder in the sandwich bag should be immediately stored back in your freezer for another day. I don’t know exactly how long it will stay good in the sandwich bag, but I personally toss any open frozen fish foods after about 7 days. It’s so cheap that I don’t bother trying to make it last longer than that and once it is open the chance for introducing bacteria is greater.

We’d love to hear how others feed their bettas. Please tell us about your feeding routine in the comments.

Learn more about feeding betta fish.

Can Betta Fish Regrow their Fins?

2009-04-23T12:42:00.001-07:00

Jack White, originally uploaded by Tiara Damage.

Q: NR wrote,

Can bettas regrow their fins?

A: Yes, bettas will regrow their fin tissue once it has been lost due to fin rot, physical injury, or tail biting. When the new fin tissue begins to grow it is often clear resembling Saran Wrap and very thin. Over time the regrowth will begin to look more like regular fin tissue becoming thicker and regaining color, though often it will appear a different shade from the original color. The new tissue is extremely fragile and susceptible to damage or loss. It is especially important, if your betta lost the fin tissue initially due to fin rot caused by poor water quality, to fix the water problems and keep the tank clean while the fins are healing. Test your water for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate and increase your water changes while your betta is regrowing his damaged fins. While the tissue grows relatively quickly (similar to the speed of fingernail growth) it is often the case that the new growth takes two steps forward and one step back. If the new tissue is lost or damaged again continue to treat your fish by keeping the tank water clean and toxin free. In severe cases where more than half the fin is lost, it may be helpful to treat the fish with an antibiotic for bacterial fin rot or an antiseptic for physical injury, depending on the cause.

10 Reasons Why Betta Fish May be the Pet for You

2009-04-21T13:07:00.001-07:00

Trad PK Green Red Dragon M - Betta-Online, originally uploaded by Daniella Vereeken.

***MESSAGE FROM NIPPYFISH: Thanks for coming to the New Nippyfish: A Betta Blog - Hope you like our new color scheme and new bubble-nest inspired logo. The main Betta care site is in the process of redesign and will be updated in the coming weeks***

1. Personality – These small 3 inch fish are packed with big personality. They zoom around their aquarium with a pouty look on their face exploring every nook and cranny. It won’t take them long to recognize you too. Soon, each time you near the aquarium your betta fish will approach and wiggle his tail in anticipation of a treat.

2. Style – There are hundreds of color/tail combinations of Betta splendens available through your local fish store, aquarium club, online fish auctioneer and even the big pet retailer are now getting a variety of fancy and colorful bettas in stock. No two bettas look alike and you are sure to find one that suits you.

3. Compact – Bettas don’t require large aquariums. An adult male betta can do great in a small 5 gallon desk-top tank and with proper care you can keep 3 to 5 females in a tank as small as 10 gallons.

4. Low Cost – Aquariums, with their sophisticated lighting, advanced filtration, water test kits, and accessories can get expensive fast but doesn’t have to be the case. A small 5 gallon betta aquarium kit can be purchased for under $50 and for savvy shoppers; a decent betta tank can be set up for just a few bucks or even free through Craigslist, eBay, garage sales or local aquarium clubs.

5. No Pets Allowed? – No problem. While many apartment buildings don’t allow cats and dogs many still permit small aquariums or fish bowls. Even college dorms often allow fish where they prohibit other pets. Just because you can’t have a dog or cat today, doesn’t mean you can’t have a companion at all. Check your housing regulations before buying your betta.

6. Ease of Care – Though not care-free, bettas are pretty easy to care for. Once your aquarium is set up and established, bettas require only an hour or two of work each week to clean their tank or bowl, test their water quality, check their temperature and just a minute for daily feedings.

7. Learning Opportunity – Like anything, you get out what you put in. Your betta can be simply a companion but he can also be used to learn all about chemistry, science, math, genetics and art. Parents use betta fish to teach their children about fish care and responsibility. Because of my bettas, I learned all about web design and blogging. That’s one smart little fish.

8. Competition – Once you get the hang of caring for bettas you might get the itch to compete. I don’t mean fighting bettas of course (that’s illegal) but you can compete for Best in Show in betta breeding competitions.

9. Compatibility – Already have an aquarium? It is commonly believed that betta fish have to be kept alone. While it’s true that you shouldn’t keep more than one male or a male and female together, bettas of both genders can often be integrated successfully into a community aquarium. Bettas have been known to great with other tropical species like cory catfish, otos, African dwarf frogs, apple snails, ghost shrimp and neons.

10. Support – Just five years ago, when Nippyfish was born there was very little reliable information on the web about betta fish, except for a few dedicated web-savvy breeders that were sharing their knowledge. Most of us had to go to our local library to find out how to care for bettas. Today there are tons of great resources including websites, blogs and web forums. Though myths still sprinkle the web (how about the one recommending bettas be kept in Peace Lily vases), thanks to dedicated betta fish hobbyists, many of those myths have been squashed and replaced with good responsible betta fish care advice.

Betta Fish Poll Results: Where Do You Buy Your Betta Fish?

2009-04-20T13:27:00.001-07:00

fighter, originally uploaded by emilysaurus.

The answers to last weeks Betta Poll are in: Where do you buy your betta fish? It seems that most betta keepers are getting their fish at large retail stores but local fish stores are not far behind in the rankings.

59% (13 Votes) Large Pet Retailer (PetCo, PetSmart, Walmart)
40% (9 Votes) Local Fish Store
4% (1 Vote) Online
9% (2 Votes) Direct from Breeder
4% (1 Vote) Aquarium Club / Tropical Fish Society

As a follow up to our article Should Betta Fish Breeders Stop Breeding Veil Tail Bettas we ask the question; will you continue to buy veil tail bettas? Let us know where you stand by answering the poll in the right column.

Betta Fish Breeding Injuries - Male Betta Wounded by Female Betta

2009-04-16T12:17:00.001-07:00

A Twist of Fate, originally uploaded by fairydancer1975.

Q: A wrote,

I have a male and female betta in a 10 gal tank. I purchased both of them at the same time and introduced them both to the tank at the same time as well as to not have one dominate over the other. They have cohabited fine for about 5-6 months with no problems. Until last week, I came home to find the male "floating" at the top of the tank on his side looking dead. I went to remove him from the tank to find out he was alive but having trouble swimming and seeming off balance. So I removed him from the tank and put him in a separate container and saw that his top longer fin seems to have been torn mostly off causing him to have difficulty swimming. I then noticed the female seems to have a bulge in her belly. I assumed she was pregnant and that the male must have attempted to mate with her and she attacked him causing the fin issue. I kept the male and female separate for a few days until he was swimming normal again. And then reintroduced the male back to the tank with the female. The male then started a bubble nest and all seemed well. Yet the female never laid any eggs and her tummy is still swollen, yet she seems just fine. Yesterday he was fine when I came home but 3 hours later he was laying in the bottom of the tank not moving. I have since put him into a mesh net box that sits inside his tank but he's laying on his side in sort of a funny position sort of laying on his face and his body all curved funny. He wont eat and doesn't move unless I move the mesh box. His fins look bad and I really don't know what else to do. The water temp is at 80 the conditions from what I can tell are all fine and I keep the tank clean.

A: When breeders put a male and female betta together for spawning they prepare often weeks or months in advance, keeping the water pristine and feeding a variety of the most nutritious foods available so that their fish are strong and in the best possible shape for breeding, which is often violent and dangerous for both fish. During the hours that the male and female betta are in the same aquarium the breeder remains close by so that the fish can be separated if one or both become seriously injured. Even so, it is not unusual to loose one of the fish after breeding from injury or a secondary infection. Know how dangerous it is to keep male and female bettas together, I have to say you are extremely lucky that they did ok for as they did. I once had a male and female together in a 10 gallon separated by a mesh tank divider. I went to work and 8 hours later when I returned my male was dead on the bottom with absolutely no fins what-so-ever aside from his pectorals. The female had jumped the divider and was innocently swimming around his side of the tank.

Keeping him in the mesh box or in a separate hospital tank is the best thing you can do. Your betta may also benefit by putting a plant in the mesh box at or near the surface so he can easily stick his head out to breathe. Remember, while bettas do get some oxygen from the water, they need to breathe from the surface as well. If you don't already, you may want to run an air stone in your aquarium to help your betta breathe easier while he is healing. You will also need to keep your water as clean as possible. If you have water test kits available, check to make sure there is no ammonia or nitrite and relatively low nitrates (under 20 ppm) While injured, your fish is at risk for infection. You may also want to increase your water changes so to lessen the risk of infection. Changing 10% of the water with clean dechlorinated water each day over the next week or so will help. BettaFix, which contains the natural antiseptic melaleuca, works very well on injured bettas with open wounds. There has been some good evidence that shows the melaleuca will help wounds heal much faster in fish. Some bettas in rare cases have bad reactions to it. So watch your betta closely for additional signs of stress. These claims haven't been verified in tests, but it is always good to watch your betta closely when he is being medicated.

If your betta pulls through this you will need to set up a separate tank for him or continue to keep him in the mesh box, if it is large enough to act as a comfortable home.

Betta Tank Filter Current - Checking Out the MiniBow 5 and the Eclipse 6

2009-04-15T10:50:00.001-07:00

1-A, originally uploaded by movingsale168.

Q: LB wrote,

Hi! I am an old hand at tropical fish keeping and used to run both a 50 gallon and a 90 gallon tank. However, I've been out of it for 10 years or so. My daughter is in college and bought herself a Betta for a pet, however, she doesn't have the time to care for it properly and is soon moving out of the college residence. So good old Mom is going to take the Betta off her hands. Tonight, I went shopping for something to keep the dude in. I refuse to keep him in a bowl! What I purchased was a Mini Bow 5, plus a mini heater. Upon unpacking the tank, I discovered that the included filter is NOT adjustable, although I understood it should be. Assuming this problem cannot be resolved and I'm stuck with a Mini Bow 5 with a non-adjustable filter... will the Betta be able to handle the current? Alternatively, I can return this tank for an Eclipse 6. The 6's filter is also not adjustable and I've read contradictory reviews where people say the filter is fine for Betta's and other people say it's too strong. I've also noticed that the Eclipse 6 has a fluorescent light whereas the Mini Bow 5 has an incandescent light -- the Betta would look much nicer under the fluorescent! But it's the current that I'm really most concerned about.

A: Both the MiniBow 5 and the Eclipse 6 are great options for betta fish aquariums. Over the years, I have kept several bettas in my Eclipse 6 aquarium. Bettas, especially long finned males, aren’t the strongest swimmers and may need a little time to adjust to the moderate current in either aquarium. Neither aquarium has an especially strong current and with a few modifications can be easily made to suit most bettas. Some of the smaller models, like the Eclipse 3 make it hard to keep the current down due to their smaller size.

With either tank I would suggest adding a fair amount of plant material, either real or silk (plastic is okay if you don’t select anything too sharp). Dense vegetation not only looks nice and helps your betta feel comfortable but it also disperses much of the filter current so your betta can swim comfortably and rest when necessary. It is my personal opinion that bushy plant material is enough to make both the MiniBow 5 and the Eclipse 6 well suited for most betta fish. Some bettas seem more agitated by the current than others. Some even appear to play in it. You’ll have to see how your daughter’s betta fares after you set up the tank.

Another option is to create a surface barrier at the filter outlet. To create a barrier purchase one plastic mesh tank divider kit, available at just about any fish store, PetCo or PetSmart, and cut a long 1 to 2 inch strip from the mesh.
Attach it to the brackets as you would if you were setting up the divider, and attach the brackets to the sides of the aquarium, just around the flow output. Make sure the mesh is at the top of the water and sticking out the surface just a bit. This won’t cut the current throughout the entire aquarium but will create calm areas where your fish can rest.

Another popular option is to cut the toes out of a pair of pantyhose. Tie the pantyhose around the filter intake with a rubber band. This will help to slow the intake and thus the current.

I think either option is a good choice and with little modification can be perfect for your betta. If you want to read my review of the Eclipse 6 I have it posted here. Review of Eclipse 6 by Marineland

Eclipse 6 Betta Tank with Live Plants

Here's an photo update from LB of her Eclipse 6 Betta Tank. Nice Looking Aquarium!

Betta Fish Poll Results: What Do You Think of Pet Store Betta Cups?

2009-04-10T08:25:00.001-07:00

Please don't drink me, originally uploaded by funky_cheetah.

The final results for the Betta Fish Poll: What do you think of Pet Store Betta Cups?

54% (31 Votes) Way too small to be humane
42% (24 Votes) OK for a short time
0% (0 Votes) They're fine. Bettas don't need much
3% (2 Votes) Huh? What cups?

This weeks poll (located in the column to the right) is Where do you buy your betta fish? Let us know where you like to buy your bettas. In this betta fish poll, you can answer more than one if it applies.

**Hey Readers** If you are reading this after the polls have closed feel free to add your opinion in the comments. We love to hear what you think.

Should Betta Fish Breeders Stop Breeding Veil Tail Bettas?

2009-04-09T17:29:00.001-07:00

Orange Betta Fish, originally uploaded by sponytales2000.

Do you think betta fish breeders should stop breeding veil tails? Up until a few short years ago, the only betta fish you could find at the large commercial fish stores like PetCo, Petsmart and Walmart were the standard veil tail betta. Double-tail, Crowntail, Delta and Halfmoon bettas were an oddity shared only by breeders. Today all those options and more are available to any Schmo who wants one. The latest craze is the King Betta which I will get to another day when I’m feeling less cynical.

Of course, if I had the means to start breeding today I would not consider, even for a second, breeding veil tail bettas. Why would I? There is no profit in it and certainly no glory. I don’t attend betta shows (not for lacking of wanting) but I doubt very much that veil-tails are being shown anymore or have been for a long time for that matter. Plus I can completely understand the appeal of the fancier Bettas. Breeders, by definition, are meticulously detail oriented, pushing the envelope and always striving for perfection. They don’t look back. I don’t blame them for abandoning the veil tail betta because I would too.

That said; part of me is sad to see them go. The day I walk into PetCo and see only fancy bettas is soon approaching and I can’t help but feel like I’m loosing an old friend. Maybe it’s because the veil tail betta was the first betta I had… and I had many of them over the years. They are familiar, like an old shirt… but like an old shirt they have fallen out of fashion and must be put away in the backs of our minds as nothing but a nostalgic memory.

What do you guys think? Is it time to move on and put the veil tail betta behind us?

New Betta Fish Isn't Very Active

2009-04-08T15:51:00.001-07:00

Daffodil, originally uploaded by hypnotic_mist.

EP Wrote,
Hi Christie! First off, thanks so much for taking the time to read this, it's a big help!

I bought a betta last Friday, (Davey Jones) and I find he's been acting strange ever since I got him home. Granted, I do know each individual fish is different, so maybe I'm being paranoid! But since getting him; the first day, I brought him home wrapped in a scarf to keep the water temperature as stable as possible and to help him feel more secure. I acclimated him for about 25-30 minutes, first letting his bag float for around 10 minutes followed by slowly adding aquarium water for about 15 minutes. I admit, getting him into the tank was a bit of an ordeal since I've read many times not to get any of the bag water in the tank. In the end, I ended up getting most of it in the tank, but I've done several small water changes since then, and a 35% water change today (Tuesday). Basically, the first day he slowly explored his tank and since then he's been mostly laying on the bottom of the tank or other tank decor, mostly the filter outlet and near a top corner. These have been broken by trips to the top to get air, some moving around, but sometimes when he does move, I feel like he's moving oddly. It's these very quick spurts and it sometimes looks as if he's twitching. I'll go over his symptoms a bit later, since you have a questionnaire you like to be filled out for detail: so:

1. What is your tank size? 5.5 gallons, heated, filtered, no carbon (a HOB whisper from tetra with a baffle to reduce the current) and cycled (since October)
2. Have you tested for ammonia- what were the results? yes-0
3. Have you tested for nitrite- what were the results?
4. Have you tested for nitrate- what were the results? yes-0
5. Have you tested for pH- what were the results? yes- a steady 7.6
6. What temperature is your tank? 80 degrees F
7. How often do you perform water changes, how much water do you change? A very small water change each day to remove uneaten food, two 10% changes per week followed by a 50% water change each week
8. What water additives are you using (please include any conditioners, salt or medications) I use Hagen's aqua plus, Seachem Flourish for plants, Seachem flourish excel and Nutrafin Plant Gro.
9. What type of food are you feeding, how often and how much? I'm feeding Hikari bio gold pellets, Nutrafin max medium tropical fish pellets, Hikari micro pellets, Hikari micro wafers, frozen blood worms and frozen brine shrimp. I alternate each food, feeding 3 bio gold pellets, 3 Nutrafin pellets, a tiny pinch of the micro wafers and pellets and 3-4 brine shrimp or bloodworms. I feed one type of food in the morning, another type in the evening and on some days I'll feed him a little extra in the afternoon. I haven't decided whether to fast him a day each week yet.
10. What kind of tank mates, when were they added? No tank mates
11. Is your tank planted? Yes, two Anubias nanas, 4 clumps of java fern and 3 clumps of java moss, he also has a half a coconut cut into a cave and a large piece of driftwood.
12. What are the symptoms, when did they begin and is there anything else we should know? Basically, since I've had him (less than a week) he's alternating between lying on the gravel, near the filter and heater to spurts of spastic looking swimming, he does move around and explore his tank, but he seems to spend most of his time hiding, lying on tank decorations and lately he's taken to sticking himself behind the filter. His caudal and anal fins appear clamped too; he does stretch them out sometimes, but mostly they stay clumped together, his ventral and swimming fins are fine though. I'm worried about this symptom besides it meaning he's not well, but also I can't check his fins very well for tears or rot. His breathing seems fine though; his gills aren't heaving and he has a voracious appetite.

This is my second betta, the first one died of a combination of severe fin rot and something I couldn't identify. At the time, that betta had been with an apple snail that also died several months later due to a collapsed mantle. The tank had been empty about two weeks before I got this betta, and since then I had done several full water changes.

So I guess my question is whether Davey’s behavior is stress due to new living quarters or an illness. Does it seem like I'm doing anything wrong? I honestly can't think of anything, I've been researching for weeks in preparation for this new fish, since my poor last betta died as a result of my lack of knowledge and I want to be able to confidently take care of a fish. So any information you can give me will be a huge help, thanks so much again!

A: Thanks for providing such a great breakdown of information. There are a couple of things I would suggest. First, bettas love to hide behind their filters because it is one of the only places in the tank with little or no water movement, which they prefer. Unfortunately bettas don’t realize or appreciate that their filters are for their benefit. It is possible that Davey Jones is bothered by the amount of filter current. If your filter has an adjustable outlet, turn the current intensity down to lessen the water movement. If it doesn’t, you can create a baffle that disperses the water movement so it doesn’t feel so strong. In the short term, try turning off your filter completely, just for a couple of hours, to see if you betta comes out to explore. If he does, you can probably assume the problem is the current and you can take steps to fix it. See Heavy Current in Betta Tank for more information.

Rapid darting can also be caused by parasites like Velvet or Ich. Look at your betta closely. Ich is easily seen by the naked eye and looks like small white grains of sugar on your betta’s body. Velvet is much harder to spot and looks like a dusting of very fine gold powder. Velvet can be seen better with a flashlight.

The third, and most likely scenario, is that your betta hasn’t yet adjusted to his new water parameters. It’s possible that there was a significant difference in pH, water hardness, or any number of other factors. It is not uncommon for a betta to take two weeks to fully acclimate to his new aquarium. Bettas that are shipped into local fish stores have often experienced great stress, either through shipping or through neglect at the store. It may be that Davey just needs a little time to heal old illnesses and get comfortable in his amazing new planted aquarium.

Sick Betta – The 4 Most Common Sign of Illness in Betta Fish

2009-04-06T15:23:00.001-07:00

The Golden Dragon, originally uploaded by pattpoom.

Sick betta fish can be cured, much of the time, if you can figure out what is ailing your betta. Tiny white speckles, like sugar granules are probably a sign of Ich parasites while swollen body with puffed out scales is likely a signal your betta has Dropsy. Fins melting away? Fin rot is probably to blame but what if these obvious symptoms of disease aren’t present? What if your betta is showing more general signs of illness? The following is a list of common symptoms displayed by sick betta fish.

1. Loss of color – General body color begins to dull or fade. Darker fish loose their vibrancy and turn a more muted version of their usual shade or begin to turn a muddy brown or gray color. This could signify any number of things from poor water quality to an internal bacterial or parasitic infection. If the body becomes splotchy or one confined area becomes dull or gray you may have a bacterial or external fungal infection. Keep in mind that it is normal for a betta’s color to change slowly as it ages and older bettas will often get a “beard” or an area under the mouth that becomes dull or gray in color. Again, this happens slowly as bettas mature. Rapid color loss may signal illness or a visual sign that the water is inadequate. Test your aquarium’s water.

2. Clamped fins – What are clamped fins anyway? Clamped fins are when a betta holds his dorsal and anal fins close to his body and keeps his caudal fin closed tight rather than displayed open like a fan. Bettas don’t typically swim around in full display all the time but will often spread their fins wide from time to time, especially when another betta is in sight or when they can see their reflection. Bettas who rarely open their fins up wide may be telling you that they are unhappy with the state of their water or are feeling unwell. Again this is one small piece of the puzzle. There is no medicine for clamped fins. If you find your betta is keeping his fins clamped, start by checking that your water is warm enough and is free from toxins like ammonia, nitrite and high nitrates. Rapid changes in pH may also cause this reaction. If you notice clamped fins over a long period of time (say, several days) watch closely for other signs of illness and keep testing that water!

3. Lethargy or Sluggishness – For me this is the tell-tale sign of a problem. It won’t take but a few days for you to get to know your betta and his normal activity level once you bring him home. If you notice a sudden loss in energy, don’t ignore it. Bettas typically explore all day and sleep soundly (hardly moving) at night. A betta that lies on a plant or at the bottom of the tank all day is not a healthy betta. Sluggishness can signal virtually any illness but it also signifies that the water may not be optimal for good health. (Test that water – are you seeing a pattern in my answers here?) Lethargy may even be a sign that he isn’t eating a balanced and nutritious diet. If your boisterous betta suddenly becomes a couch potato, you’ll need to review all aspects of your care regimen.

4. Loss of appetite – This is another worrisome symptom of illness. In my experience, loss of appetite signifies that an illness has gone unchecked. Bettas, whose instincts are to survive, will continue to eat even when sick until they can no longer and must conserve vital resources (like digestion) in order to heal. This is why a betta that won’t eat really concern me; not to mention some of the most effective antibiotics are administered orally. A betta that won’t eat may not be getting the best medicine. The causes of appetite loss can be many, from bacterial to viral to parasitic infections. Usually poor water quality alone does not cause loss of appetite unless severe.

None of these symptoms of betta illness points to any one specific sickness but instead should be a signal to you, the betta parent, that something is wrong. If you observe any of these, take a few minute to assess what the problem might be. Look for other signs of disease, check all your water parameters and review your betta care regimen. The answer may be as simple as a water change, a couple of ticks on the aquarium heater, or a new brand of betta pellets.

Betta Bite - Active Healthy Bettas

2009-04-04T09:50:00.001-07:00

For those of you who follow me on Twitter, you may know that I am working on a fresh new face for Nippyfish.net. One small part of the new site will be BETTA BITES - quick tips full of useful and important information in just a sentence or two.

I don't have a hard set deadline for the release of the new site but would like to post a short BETTA BITE video as a sneak peak for you all today.

Follow Nippyfish on Twitter for live answers to the question:
"What am I doing."

Angry Petitioners Fight Tiny Betta Fish Cups

2009-04-01T14:20:00.001-07:00

fishy fish, originally uploaded by hessiebell.

Petitioners in Scotland are furious that local fish stores are housing their Siamese Fighting Fish(Betta splendens) in small containers instead of larger holding tanks, much like they do here in the United States. While there are laws protecting pet shop animals a loophole in the Pet Animals Act 1951 and Animal Health and Welfare (Scotland) Act 2006 allow pet shop owners to keep these fish in small containers. The petition, organized by Chris Law, was brought forward to members of the Scottish Parliament on March 17th and outlined their worry that these small containers lead to inactive and obese pet fish.

According to one committee member, “Many of the fish, which are popular because they are colorful and relatively cheap, are kept in tanks that are too small, which leads to poor health and obesity”. Though no surprise to avid aquarium hobbyists, the petition also stated, "small containers are open to temperature fluctuations and rapidly declining water quality".

The small plastic cups used to house betta fish at local fish stores here in the U.S. have been the subject of much debate. Please let us know your opinion.
To read the full article visit,Storm in a Goldfish Bowl as MSPs Debate Obese Pet Fish

How to Disinfect (Sanitize) Your Aquarium with Bleach

2009-03-30T13:39:00.001-07:00

Buddy, originally uploaded by Looking Up Photography (Karen).

Q: TA wrote,

A few weeks ago my betta died from Dropsy (I think) and I want to get a new one. How do I sanitize my aquarium so that my new betta doesn’t pick up the germs? Is bleach safe to use in an aquarium?

A: Bleach is one of the safest and most effective methods for sanitizing an aquarium before the initial set-up. Many people are afraid to use bleach because they are afraid of its potency but actually it is perfectly safe if used correctly. We use bleach for sanitization because it is one of the most successful chemicals we have for disinfecting. It is commonly used in U.S. hospitals and is recommended by the Center for Disease Control. Bleach or Sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), is also safe for the environment. It breaks down very quickly, leaving mostly salt and water behind. Because it is a strong disinfectant that breaks down into harmless byproducts rapidly, it can be used to sanitize baby and pet toys, aquariums and yes it is even used to sanitize our water supply.

How to disinfect your aquarium with bleach.

When buying bleach for aquarium cleaning, only use regular bleach like Chlorox Regular Bleach or an equivalent. Do not use bleach mixed with detergent. Detergents leave dangerous residue that can be fatal to aquarium fish.

Using a typical household bleach (which is already about 5% bleach) mix 9 parts water with 1 part regular bottled bleach. I like to store it short term in a spray bottle purchased at my local hardware store. Note that bleach does break down fairly quickly so only make small quantities at a time. Never store bleach in a bottled previously used with other chemicals.

Wipe any debris from the aquarium with warm water and a paper towel.

Spray all surfaces of the aquarium with the 10% solution you have just created. I like to do this in my bathtub to contain the overspray. Sanitizing outdoors is also a good option.

Let the aquarium sit for 10-15 minutes. Bleach is a corrosive chemical and can cause damage to your aquarium if left too long. Do not allow it to sit for longer than 15 minutes.

Rinse thoroughly. When you are done rinsing, rinse again for good measure.

Allow the aquarium to air dry completely. This will help to insure that the bleach solution has broken down into harmless byproducts.

Once you set up your aquarium, fill the tank with water and dose with a good aquarium water dechlorinator.

Aquarium gravel, decorations, filters, heaters, etc. can also be bleached using the same concentration of water to bleach. You can either spray them or soak them in a bowl depending on what you are cleaning. Just be sure to rinse very well and allow everything to air dry completely before putting back in the aquarium. Note that metal rusts quickly when exposed to bleach. As mentioned earlier, never allow bleach to sit on the item for more than 10 – 15 minutes.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION:
Bleach can be very dangerous if inhaled or ingested. It can cause moderate to severe damage if it comes in contact with the eyes or skin. It can also cause discoloration or corrosion of some materials. Please view the International Chemical Safety Card before using bleach.

Sideways Swimming Betta

2009-03-25T15:15:00.001-07:00

Sir 'Enry the Ninth of Sidewinder, originally uploaded by Mean and Pinchy.

AB wrote,

Hey I was looking at your site and thought you could help me out.

1. How long have you had your betta? 1 to a 1 1/2

2. What is the water volume or tank size? It hold about 2 to 21/2 liters of water.

3. Is this a betta bowl or an aquarium with a filter? Aquarium with filter

4. Have you tested for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate? What were the results? Nothing everything in the water was normal.

5. Have you tested for pH, kh and gh? What were the results? I am unsure.

6. What is the water temperature? 78

7. How often do you change your tank water? How much water do you replace at a time? I change the new water one a week and I usually change all of it.

8. Are there other fish in the tank with your betta? Which species and how many? When were they added? No other fish just Nemo

9. How often do you feed your betta? What types of food are you using? How much are you feeding each time? I feed him two times a day once in the morning and once at night. I feed him beta food from wall-mart the brand is Wardley's.

10. What water additives and medications are you using? Remember to include water conditioners or salt if you're using them. I am not using anything i just clean the tank with hot water and then cool everything down with cold. My water here has a lot of iron so I use store bought jugs to change his water.

He is lying on his side at the bottom of the tank. He looks sick in a way he looks as if he is loosing color and when he goes to swim to the top of the tank he swims sideways. Please help me I don’t want him to suffer. What should I do?

A: Thanks for taking the time to fill out my questionnaire before writing in. It always helps me a lot. From the information you provided there wasn’t any one issue that really sticks out as being a problem. The water temperature, cleaning regimen and water chemistry all seem fine. The fact that he is loosing color and laying on the bottom of the tank concerns me though, as it sounds more serious than simple constipation, which can sometimes cause the sideways swimming. It is possible that Nemo has acquired some sort of infection, possibly in his swim bladder which can also cause the fish to whirl about or swim sideways.

Since we don’t know the nature of the illness (could be bacterial, viral, parasitic or environmental) it is impossible to know exactly what to treat Nemo with. I suggest doing what you can to reduce stress and create an environment that fosters good health. Increase the water changes, making sure he isn’t exposed to ammonia. Keep his water warm (78 F, where you have it is perfect) and make sure it is stable, not dropping by more than a couple degrees at night. Keep his food fresh. It is a good sign that he is still eating but keep in mind that fish food looses its vitamins once open. If your fish food is older than 3 months, consider tossing it and getting a fresh package. I don’t like to jump too quickly to medicating my fish as many of the commercial fish medicines are pretty potent, but if you suspect an internal infection you might want to consider a broad-spectrum antibiotic for Nemo like Triple Sulfa. Before medicating your fish, consider it carefully as it can cause additional stress. As with any antibiotic, follow the directions on the package carefully.

The symptoms that Nemo is showing are very common with many Betta diseases so monitor him carefully for additional symptoms that may help you to better narrow down the cause.

Top 5 Betta Fish Websites of 2009!

2009-03-23T17:34:00.001-07:00

Betta splendens 3, originally uploaded by copepodo.

I like to think of Nippyfish.net as the best Betta website on the web but sure as Bettas are feisty, I am bias. Nippyfish isn’t the only Betta-centric site out there, so I thought I would take a moment to nod my cap at some other great sites that offer useful Betta-specific information and advice.

Here is Nippyfish’s favorite Betta fish websites for 2009!

1. Aquamaniacs.net

Aquamaniacs is a phpBB online community forum with a variety of aquarium-specific categories that members can post in. Several years ago they added a discussion page just for Bettas. This site ranks numero uno on my list for their amazingly talented and dedicated moderators who offer consistently smart and reliable advice. Great place to get help for a sick Betta.

2. Bettysplendens.com

Betty Splendens is run by a breeder by the name of Victoria. Her website is chuck-full of detailed breeding information and sharp wit and she even boasts interviews with some of the best known breeders in the biz. My favorite feature is the Betty Splendens Bettacast, a podcast just about bettas which you can link to on her site or through iTunes.

3. HealthyBetta.com

Healthy Betta is fish care website dedicated to Fighting Fish and is full of easy to understand, well categorized articles that are beneficial to anyone interested in Betta fish, especially those who are newer to the hobby. Nippyfish gives Healthy Betta the thumbs-up for giving safe and conservative advice. A great read for any newbie.

4. IBCbettas.org

The International Betta Congress (IBC) is probably the single most relevant betta site on the inter-web. The IBC is an international club for Betta breeders and Fighting Fish lovers. They are what “The Academy” is to the Oscars. For a small annual fee you can become a member of the IBC which entitles you to show your fish in competitions and gets you a subscription to Flare!, the IBC’s monthly magazine. They lead the way in Betta-science and help enthusiasts keep abreast of the most current information in the hobby.

5. AquaBid.com

AquaBid is the eBay of online fish auctions. If you’re looking for something a little more unique than your average pet store Fighting Fish, you can find it here. Their Betta fish selection is impressive and there is something available for any budget.

Nippyfish.net and Nippyfish: A Betta Blog is dedicated to fish hobbyists like you. We offer Betta splendens general care, illness, and disease information, aquaria articles, book & product reviews and more. A place for anyone who loves Siamese Fighting Fish and the aquarium hobby.

Female Betta Blowing Bubble Nest.

2009-03-18T16:21:00.001-07:00

Trad PK Copper M - Betta-Online, originally uploaded by Daniella Vereeken.

Q: MB wrote,

I have a strange problem; my female Betta is making bubble nests (unless I have a male with VERY short fins).

I had a male and female in an aquarium together for almost 10 months...not a nipped fin or hint of a problem. She tore the male up about three months ago. I found him floating on top, on his side, all his fins well ripped up. He survived and with some meds and extra heat. He is doing fine. Anyway, the male has stopped making nests. I am keeping them in separate gallon jars next to each other. They seem to interact but he hides from her. She has made a couple of nests; the bubbles seem to be smaller than in the nests the male made. What do you make of this?

What is your feeling on luck bamboo? I have kept fish in 2 gallon jars with "bamboo" for years with no apparent problems. I do pull ALL of it out and wash it every week. I have put it in aquariums for years when I don't have it filled to the top.

A: There are a couple of possibilities here. First, there are short finned male Bettas. They are commonly referred to as Plakat (pronounced pla-CAT) bettas. This body type is closer in appearance to wild Bettas, which traditionally have short fins. Bettas with long flowing fins, like those you see most often at aquarium stores, have been selectively bred to have unusually long finnage. While unlikely, it is possible that you purchased yourself two male Bettas, one being of the short-finned variety. The only way to be sure that your Betta is a female is to look under its belly for an ovipositor. The ovipositor is a small tube from which female bettas dispel their eggs. To the naked eye, it looks like a small white dot located behind the ventral fins. Only females have an ovipositor and it is the only true-fire way to know that your Betta is a female and not a Plakat.

Another possibility is that the bubbles you are finding are not the result of your fish trying to create a bubble nest and are rather the byproduct of your fish breathing from the surface. All Betta splendens are labyrinth fish and get the majority of their oxygen from breathing air from the surface. Bubbles will frequently escape from the fish’s mouth, unintentionally rising to the surface and collecting. These bubbles can begin to pile up and look somewhat like a small nest, especially if your aquarium water is very still. It is possible that the collections of bubbles you are observing are just the result of escaped air and are not an intentional nest for the purpose of breeding.

As for your question regarding bamboo, I am not opposed to bamboo in the aquarium as long as it is kept healthy. Bamboo is technically a terrestrial plant but can survive for a long time partially submerged in water. If not maintained, however, the roots and stalks can begin to rot, leaching poisonous toxins into the aquarium. Continue to look it over during your weekly water changes and remove any bamboo that appears to be decaying and your Betta should be fine.

Betta Fish: The Perfect College Pet

2009-02-09T13:20:00.001-08:00

.splendens., originally uploaded by brokenlenses.

The first Betta I ever had I bought when I was in college. I kept him in my dorm room my 4th year, where I lived alone as an RA. Many students have animals back home and long to care for a pet at school but housing rules, hectic schedules and roommates can make this difficult or impossible. Many more students never had a pet growing up and are now considering it for the first time. Whichever category you’re in, a Betta can make an excellent addition to your school-family. Here are a few things to consider before you buy a Betta for your dorm room.

1. Know your school’s housing rules. Most universities don’t allow pets in on-campus housing but will list fish as an exception. Know the rules so you aren’t put in a position where you may need to find a new home for your betta or risk punishment.

2. Check with your roommates. Respect their right to have or not have a pet in their home too. It’s the courteous thing to do and simply running it by them first will save headaches later.

3. Review your schedule. College students are notoriously busy. Be sure you have the time and interest in caring for your new pet. If you’re carrying a full class load, working two jobs, playing a sport and attending your band practices you may not have it in you to clean your aquarium and test your water each week… Then again you may enjoy the quiet time at home.

4. Evaluate your environment. Bettas like a warm, quiet environment and don’t tolerate loud noises and vibrations well. Avoid keeping your Betta in high traffic areas or in rooms where loud music is played frequently.

5. Plan ahead. Bettas typically live about 3 years but can live up to 5 years in good conditions. Of course no one expects a college student to know exactly where they’re going to be a few years down the line but you should have a plan for how you will handle school breaks and vacations. Bettas can travel well over short distances in a car, if packaged properly, but carrying them on a plane is very expensive and impractical. Shipping them ahead of you is possible but can be stressful for your fish. If you’re going to have a friend care for your fish be sure (s)he is up to speed and willing to take on the responsibility.

If you have reviewed your college’s pet policies, spoken to your roommates, found a proper location in your room and developed a plan for school break and feel that a Betta fish is the perfect college pet, you can go ahead and start planning your aquarium set up. Visit the Nippyfish main site for more information on Choosing A Tank.

Female Bettas: Sorority Sisters Fight Too

2009-02-05T08:55:00.001-08:00

A (mostly) female fry tank, originally uploaded by iturkstra.

Quick Tip

Female Betta fish can be feistier than Christian Bale on theatrical rampage. Many fighting fish enthusiasts keep female only tanks because they are more communal than their male counterparts only to be surprised later by nipped fins and missing scales. If your girls aren’t playing nice consider spreading out the aggression by keeping a larger number of fish together. Keeping 4 our 5 females in a larger aquarium will often produce less fighting and subsequent injuries than 2 or 3 in the same sized tank. As always, make sure your aquarium is large enough to handle all those girls.

Pro Terms

Fighting fish hobbyists call an all female betta tank a SORORITY.

Alternative Constipation Treatments for Betta splendens

2009-02-01T16:45:00.001-08:00

daphnia, originally uploaded by charlieu.

Last weeks article discussed how to prepare a green pea as a remedy for your constipated Betta. Some Bettas are picker than others and occasionally you'll have one that won't eat the pea even after several attempts. If you suspect your Betta may be constipated and have already tried feeding him blanched pea to no avail, here are a few alternative treatments.

1. Fasting. Fasting is really the first thing you should try if you Betta isn't defecating. The most common cause of constipation in Bettas is overfeeding. Simply allowing the waste to pass without compounding the problem with additional food is often all the fish requires. Holding back feeding for two days is usually enough and is safe for adult fish of sufficient weight. Many Betta keepers, to promote good digestion, will fast their fish one day per week as a preventative measure, which seems to work well for many hobbyists.

2. Daphnia. Daphnia are small water fleas commonly found in freshwater environments. They are nutritious and known to act as a mild laxative and a digestive aide. Many Bettas will eat them readily, especially fish raised by breeders who fed live and frozen diets to their Bettas early on. If possible, select frozen or live daphnia which may be purchased at specialty fish stores. They have a much higher moisture content (typically 89%) and are less likely to expand with water in the fish's gut, which can lead to additional blockages. If you can't find frozen or live daphnia, most local fish stores will carry the freeze-dried version. Freeze-dried daphnia are high in fiber but have a very low moisture content (about 7%) and should be soaked for about 10 minutes prior to feeding to allow them to expand fully before entering the Betta's digestive system.

3. Mysis Shrimp. Mysis shrimp can be found frozen at many specialty fish stores. These small freshwater shrimp are readily gobbled up by many Bettas. They don't have the reputation as a laxative like daphnia and have a slightly lower fiber content, but like the small water fleas, they do have an exoskeleton that offers extra roughage to your Betta's diet. Mysis shrimp, when used as part of a varied diet, can help reduce instances of constipation in Bettas.

How to Prepare Pea for a Bloated Betta

2009-01-25T21:40:00.001-08:00

The Fishie and the Pea, originally uploaded by Mean and Pinchy.

Green pea, either fresh or frozen, is often used by betta keepers to alleviate mild constipation sometimes caused by flake, pellet or freeze dried fish foods. While it does little nutritionally for bettas, it is high in fiber and contains added moisture which often lacks from commercial dry fish food.

Serving Size: 1/4 - 1/2 Pea per Betta.

To prepare, take one pea and blanch it by dropping it into boiling water to soften it. After cooking for 30 seconds for fresh peas or 1 minute for frozen, remove and drop into ice cold water until cooled. Peal the skin away and feed a small portion of the inside to the betta.

To save time and keep things simple, I have found that using very hot tap water works fine too, however cooking time should be increased to two minutes or more depending on how hot your water is out of the faucet. Be sure the pea is fully cooled before feeding to your betta.

Pea can be used in moderation to treat mild bloating due to constipation or once per week to add fiber to your betta's diet as a preventative measure. Most bettas will readily eat the pea but occasionally a individual fish won't take it. Check back later this week for an article on alternative constipation treatments.

Selecting Aquarium Substrate

2009-01-19T07:07:00.001-08:00

Betta Baby, originally uploaded by acoustic*blinK.

Q: ZJ Wrote:

What kind of aquarium substrate do you recommend for a 2 gallon Betta tank?

A: Choosing the appropriate aquarium substrate for your tank is an important decision. First, I define aquarium substrate as the material(s) used to create the bed or floor of the aquarium. There are a variety of options available to suit many different needs and visual preferences.

I tend to break aquarium substrate down into two categories of which we select from each.

Category 1: Aesthetic

The aesthetic of the substrate is how we like it to look. Typically we either want a natural looking environment or an artificial looking one. Neither is better than the other per-se; it just comes down to personal preference. If you want a natural-looking aquarium you may select rock, sand or natural gravel for the substrate. For a more manufactured look you may choose marbles, glass beads or brightly colored gravel. It simply depends on the look you are trying to achieve.

Category 2: Particle Size

The size and general shape of the particles can have an impact on how the aquarium functions and while personal preference may play a roll here, it’s important to understand how the material you choose will effect the entire ecosystem.

If you have read my articles about tank cycling you know the important roll beneficial bacteria plays in your Betta tank. These healthy bacteria attach themselves to your filter material primarily as well as all surfaces in your tank including the substrate, plants and other decorations. The more surface area your substrate has, the more space you provide for this good bacteria to grow. This bacteria will thrive best on finer particles like coarse rock, small gravel or sand.

If you don’t intend to cycle your aquarium and instead choose to perform 100% water changes each week you may find it much easier to use larger materials like river stones or smooth materials like glass or polished stones. The larger substrate can be easily removed for cleaning or debris can be syphoned quickly from the space between the particulates.

Aquarium gravel, the most popular choice for aquarium substrate, falls in the middle. It offers a lot of surface area for nitrifying bacteria but can also be easily syphoned with a standard aquarium vacuum. It also comes in a variety of styles including black, natural stone, white and a variety of colors including neon.

Other Considerations
You may also want to consider how you intend to decorate your aquarium. Live plants, for example, may require a specific type of substrate to thrive. Many do best in natural sand or very fine gravel. While silk plants don’t need to extract nutrients from the soil, they will need something to hold them in place just the same. Smooth pebbles, marbles or large rocks may not hold them. Visually too, natural plants will look nicer with natural substrate just as your Sponge Bob Pineapple fish house may work better with a fun colorful gravel.

Whether you’re setting up your first Betta tank or doing a little remodeling, take a few moments to think about the look you are trying to achieve as well as how your aquarium functions. Decorating your tank can be a lot of fun and selecting the right substrate makes all the difference.

Nippyfish- Now on Facebook!

2009-01-07T19:39:00.001-08:00

Blue, originally uploaded by spyzter.

I'm happy to announce that Nippyfish.net: A Site for the Modern Betta Enthusiast now has a presence on Facebook in the form of a group called, "Fans of Nippyfish.net".

If you're a fan of Nippyfish.net or have found useful information on the Nippyfish website or blog, and have a Facebook profile, show your love by joining the Fan Site.

To join the group, log into your Facebook account and in the SEARCH bar in the upper right side of the page, type "NIPPYFISH". You'll see the link to the group where you can join.

Thanks for all the positive emails and support and I look forward to seeing you on Facebook.

Tips for Hiding Your Bettas Reflection

2009-01-06T13:04:00.002-08:00

Angry Titan (RIP), originally uploaded by c4lin.

Q: L wrote,

I got a betta for Christmas this year and he won’t stop flaring. I upgraded the small bowl he came in for a larger, 2 ½ gallon tank with a mini-heater. I think he can see his reflection in the glass. Is there anything I can do? I don’t want him to get stressed out.

A: Male bettas will often mistake their reflections in the aquarium glass for a rival male fish and will attempt to defend their territory by flaring. This is really common when moving them into a new tank and in most cases they will stop after a couple of days as they get used to their new surroundings. Occasional flaring is normal and healthy behavior. If your betta flares constantly and doesn’t stop after a few days, then there are some simple things you can do to reduce the reflection and put your fish at ease.

Often the easiest fix is to adjust the light. The reflection is caused by the angle at which the light is hitting the glass. Often turning the tank or moving it to another location will fix the problem. Also, the background color outside the aquarium can enhance or reduce his ability to see his reflection. Darker colors show the reflection more than light colors. Keeping the tank away from walls or nearer light colored walls will be better then keeping it against a dark wall. Also, attaching a scenic image to the back of the aquarium glass will often camouflage reflections as well. Most fish stores carry aquarium backdrop images you can tape to the outside of the tank. While a solid blue or black backdrop will worsen the reflections, images of aquarium plants or rocks will hide the reflection.

Adding live or silk plants is a great way to break up the sightlines between your betta and his reflection. I like adding live Java Ferns myself all throughout the tank. They are inexpensive, require little care and are found at most local fish stores. Bettas love planted aquariums and can often be seen swimming through the vegetation or resting on a plant leaf. When plants are kept healthy, they can help reduce toxins in the aquarium. I will warn you though, once you plant your first aquarium you’ll love how it looks so much that you will quickly look to add more planted aquariums to your home. Planted aquariums can be as addictive as keeping bettas.

Giving Your Betta up for Adoption

2007-11-27T13:13:00.001-08:00

Con ustedes, Betta Splendens, originally uploaded by Xavi Calvo.

SJ wrote,

On impulse (and without my prior knowledge) my daughter purchased a male betta from a major pet store. He lived in a tiny bowl for awhile until I kind of took over and now he lives in a ten gallon tank with a couple of fake plants that he likes to hang out in. I have never had fish and we know virtually nothing about them. I did a little research online to be sure he was at least getting the proper care. We've had him for about 5 months now. She quickly lost interest in him and now he's kind of mine. I would like to find a good home for him with someone who appreciates him and can care for him better than I. I keep his tank clean and he gets feed twice a day. I think he's healthy, but he doesn't seem to have grown any. His tank his not heated and we keep the temp down in the house, so I'm sure his water temp is not ideal for him. I would greatly appreciate any resources you might have for finding fish homes. I am hesitant to give him away for free because I don't want him to go to someone who doesn't care about him and will use him for fighting or as a throw away pet, but if you know of someone who really cares for these fish and trust them, they can have everything. I just want to find a good home for him.

A:Thanks for writing in. I applaud you for looking for a new home for your Betta when you are no longer able to care for him. Too often people choose to ignore their fish until it succumbs or decide to euthanize a perfectly healthy fish without first attempting to find it a new home. There are lots of options available to you. First, you can always bring your fish to a local animal shelter. Most won’t turn any animal away and you will be surprised to find a variety of small pets there including fish, hamsters, mice, birds and reptiles. You can also call your local fish store and see if they will take him back. They probably won’t pay you for him but may take him back if he’s in good shape. Call first though because some may have policies in places baring them from taking your fish. Another option is to call or email your local fish club. You didn’t say where you live but there are fish clubs in nearly all major cities full of enthusiastic hobbyists who would be happy to help. Most clubs readily accept donations and will add your fish to their monthly auction. If they can’t do that they almost certainly could put you in touch with a club member who could adopt your fish from you. Start by going online and Googling your city and “freshwater fish club” or “tropical fish society” or some version of those terms. Another option is to sell your fish at an online fish auction like AquaBid.com. This site is very popular among serious fish keepers but you will need to register and learn how to properly ship a fish if yours is purchased. Yet another option is to place an ad online at a site like Craigslist.org, an online fish club site like Aquamaniacs.net or your local town message board. I was able to find a home for many of my fish before I moved across the country by posting on my neighborhood’s online web forum. My neighbor, who had a large tank already, contacted me through the forum. One final option that you may find appealing is to donate your fish to your local elementary or middle school. Very often teachers will take them in and use them as a classroom pet and will often solicit help from their students in caring for them.

I hope you find one of these ideas useful and find a new home for your little Betta soon. Thanks so much for writing in.

Betta Bouncing Back From Ammonia Burns

2007-10-23T12:55:00.001-07:00

Lovely the Fish, originally uploaded by steve xavier.

DO wrote,

I received a 1 gal. wall bowl w/ bamboo plant, few rocks and red male Betta in March as an anniversary gift from my husband. Up until 1.5 weeks ago he was active, had a routine, seemed happy and healthy. We went out of town for the weekend, I left him a sinkable disc food. It was his 1st time alone. After our return I immediately changed the water as it was very cloudy. His gills were protruding and he seemed to be gasping? After clean water he seemed to perk up, but didn't completely return to his old self. 4 days ago he stopped eating. I thought maybe he was cold so I place a light above him a few hours a night. He swims to it and hangs out where it is warm. Yesterday he did his morning "dancing" asking for breakfast, which I took as a good sign, but still won't eat. He doesn't seem to have ick, or any physical damage (besides gills). I am getting very concerned about him. My children keep asking about him. I change his water 1-2 times a week, boil/cool rocks in between as well as rinse off bamboo. His head does look a little gray but not fuzzy the last 2 days or so. Any advise would be great, thanks.

A: This is a classic case of ammonia poisoning with all the signs. Fish waste and decaying food are the primary sources for toxic ammonia. In such a small bowl ammonia can build to toxic levels in a very short amount of time (a few days under normal conditions) and that problem can be compounded by adding extra food or missing a water change.

Swollen gills and gasping are typical symptoms of ammonia burns. Unfortunately, these burns are slow to heal and often never fully return to normal function. When Bettas struggle to get oxygen they often experience secondary problems including loss of appetite, faded color or secondary infections. This is due to the added stress on the immune system.

Some steps you can take to increase your Betta's chance of recovery are keep up with frequent water changes, test for ammonia regularly using a simple ammonia test kit from your local fish store and supply your fish with an appropriately sized aquarium (3 - 5 gallons minimum). Aquarium salt can also be beneficial to
help relieve stress and increase gill function for fish who have experienced ammonia burns. The dosage is 1 tablespoon for every 5 gallons of water and remember that salt does not evaporate so don't continue to add salt to the bowl or it will reach unsafe concentrations.

The single best thing you can do to improve water quality and provide a stable home for your fish is to cycle an aquarium. The "nitrogen cycle" is a naturally occurring process that happens in an aquarium (and all bodies of water) where beneficial bacteria reproduce and grow and consume dangerous ammonia as it is being produced. Tank cycling is something that few fish keepers know about when the first buy their fish (unfortunately most fish stores don't educate their patrons) but eventually learn about the process once their fish begin to get sick. I put together a web page for new Betta keepers describing the process so they can easily cycle their first aquarium. Cycling a fish tank will help you combat future ammonia problems, will create a safer healthier environment for your fish and will save you time and money by reducing the frequency of water changes. To learn about the nitrogen cycle visit Tank Cycling [The Fishless Method]

This is a very common problem with new Betta keepers and I know your question will help many others experiencing the same problem. Good luck to you and I hope your fish will experience a full recover as soon as possible.

Betta Showing Stress After Aquarium Upgrade

2007-10-22T19:51:00.001-07:00

abyss, originally uploaded by sanoi.

MD wrote,

First, I want to tell you how impressed I am with your website! Thank you so much for providing such a rich resource to betta enthusiasts! I am concerned about my betta fish, Nino. I have had him for three months and he has been a great companion in my study, where I spend most of my time. He was in a 5 gallon aquarium, with no filter and no heater, and was really thriving. As winter is approaching, I wanted to provide him with a heater and a filter to circulate water. Considering how active he was -- swimming back and forth through his tank most of the day -- I decided to switch him to a 10 gallon tank. I was as careful as possible in the transition -- I "seeded" the gravel from his old tank to his new environment + I mixed the new water with the water from his old tank and made sure it was the same temperature.

Since Nino moved to his new aquarium, he has been increasingly less active, and this morning, he remains still at the surface of the water most of the time. He still eats. I should specify that the temperature in his aquarium has been pretty steady at 74-76 F since I got him. I have put the heater and filter in place, but I have not started them yet (I thought I should first give Nino a chance to get used to his new tank for a few days). The filter (duetto mini) does contain a very small charcoal cartridge (could that contaminate the water if not in use?). I have been using spring water from the time I got Nino and have been doing weekly water change. I have tested his water yesterday and today (with API Master test kit) and the reading are good : ammonia between 0 and .25, nitrite: 0; nitrate: 5.0. The pH is high -- 8.0 -- but I have been using the same spring water, and noticed high readings in the past as well.

Nino looked perfectly healthy and happy before the transition and I feel pretty bad seeing him still, with very little reaction to stimuli and noticing his condition getting progressively worse since yesterday. I wonder if I should try to put him back in his smaller tank or if I should I make a water change?... I'm very confused and worried!

I would really appreciate your suggestions!

A:
Moving into a new aquarium can be stressful at first even though it'll be better in the long run. It is not at all unusual for Bettas show signs of stress including sluggishness, loss of appetite or dull coloration for example. Fish are incredibly in-tuned with their environment and can detect even minor changes in water chemistry, especially pH.

You will want to be sure that the new tank doesn't have any soap or detergent residue, that the new water has the same parameters as the old (which you have done) and that any necessary water additives have been added. (Dechlorinator if necessary). If these precautions have been taken then it's likely your fish just needs some time to adjust.

Adding plants (real or silk) and hiding places will help your fish to feel more secure while he gets used to his new territory. Also many aquarists recommend keeping the lights off or surrounding the aquarium with a towel for a day or two to help your Betta feel safe and protected.

I agree that keeping the filter off while your Betta is showing signs of stress is a good idea. Just be careful not to overfeed him during this time and if you detect any ammonia or nitrite you will want to turn on that filter to keep these toxins at bay. Regarding your question about charcoal, I don't believe it is causing additional stress. Charcoal is generally safe for Bettas but if you are worried you could always remove the cartridge until you are ready to run the filter.

A ten gallon aquarium makes a great home for a Betta. Give it a few days at least to allow your fish to adjust. In most cases they will be back to normal within a week.

Common Diseases Bettas Bring Home from the Fish Store - Velvet Disease

2007-10-01T21:04:00.001-07:00

betta femmina, originally uploaded by altiebassi.

Q: CSM wrote,

Hey there, I was wondering if I could trouble you with a quick question. Three days ago I purchased a betta. At the time, he appeared to be in good health, and when i brought him home, he swam in his new tank and ate all of his food. On the third day, he stopped eating and is hanging out at the top of his tank. His front fins appear "clamped" - they look like two little sticks. He is unreceptive to me - I gently tapped the side of his bowl and he did not move. Evey once in awhile he takes a big gulp of air. Other than that, he does not move. He is in a 1.5 gallon tank, the water was treated and left to stand 48 hours before his arrival. All the rocks and the fake plant are brand new and were cleaned before putting them in the tank.

It's not dropsy - yet anyway - no scales are sticking out. I fear he may have velvet - his stomach appears to be goldish. Unfortunately, because he is a new fish, I do not know if this is indeed velvet, or if the goldish stomach was there to begin with.

Perhaps parasites?

sigh.

Any help would be much appreciated.

A: To answer your question, adjusting to a new aquarium can be very stressful for any fish. Very often the new water can be quite different from the water they were kept in previously and the adjustment can really take it's toll on the Betta's immune system. It's not unusual for fish to become ill within the first few weeks in their new home. To add to the problem, Bettas are often kept in less than ideal conditions while at the fish store and can leave with any number of illnesses of which Velvet is one of the more common ones. Here's more information about Velvet from Nippyfish.net.

Velvet or Piscinoödinium or Oödinium pilularis is a parasitic infestation that is very common among both salt and freshwater fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to temperature fluctuations, poor water quality or other stressors they become susceptible to the parasites. Velvet or Piscinoödinium or Oödinium pilularis is a parasitic infestation that is very common among both salt and freshwater fish. This parasite is opportunistic and is present in most commercial aquariums. When a fish is stressed due to temperature fluctuations, poor water quality or other stressors they become susceptible to the parasites.

Velvet is classified as a dinoflagellate. It is both a protozoan like the Ich parasites but contains Chlorophyll so it is also considered a type of algae. It survives by finding a stressed host and attaching itself mostly to the gill or fin tissue where it kills the cells and consumes the nutrients directly from the fish. If left untreated it often leads to death. Physically, Velvet looks like a gold, rust or yellow dust, finely sprinkled over the fish. In fact, it can be so difficult to see that often a flashlight is needed to reveal it. This shiny powder appearance has lead to many other names besides Velvet including Rust and Gold Dust Disease.

Besides seeing the parasites directly on your fish you may notice other symptoms including the telltale rubbing against rocks, gravel or other décor. This is common with external parasites and is an attempt by your fish to dislodge the pests from its body. As the disease develops, symptoms may worsen and include lethargy, loss of appetite, labored breathing and clamped fins.

Over a short time, the protozoa detach from their host and enter their free-swimming stage where they divide and multiply many times. This is when they are most vulnerable to medications but may not be obviously present in the tank. It is very important when medicating that you finish the entire course of treatment regardless of weather or not you still see the parasites present. Follow the directions on the medication package closely. Once the parasites multiply they must find a new host (or the same old one) within 24 hours to survive. Because of this life cycle it may appear that your fish has gotten better but really once the Piscinoödinium completes reproduction the worst is yet to come. Now many more protozoa are present in the water and waiting to attack your fish.

If diagnosed early, Velvet is fairly easy to treat. First, you should remove your betta and place him into a hospital tank away from any other fish. Oödinium is highly contagious and keeping the infected fish in a community tank can put others at risk. Make note, the medications for Velvet may be toxic to other species like some fish, snails, invertebrates and aquarium plants as well. Also, any filter media should be removed so as not to eliminate the medication from the water. Next, slowly raise the water temperature to 80˚F – 82˚F [26.6˚C – 27.7˚C]. Because you don’t want to further stress you fish, be sure to only increase the temperature by no more then 2˚F or 1˚C in a 24 hour period. A more rapid temperature fluctuation could cause additional harm. It’s recommended you use a commercial Velvet medication like Mardel’s CopperSafe® or Jungle’s Velvet Guard®. Reducing the amount of light getting into the tanks by keeping the hood lamp off and covering the tank may help to combat the parasites as well.

To prevent the Piscinoödinium parasites from infesting your tank there are some simple precautions all aquarists can tank. First, always quarantine new fish for 3 – 4 weeks before adding them to a community tank. Be sure to always test your water parameters regularly and keep tank water clean by performing frequent and regular water changes. Avoid stressors like temperature and pH fluctuations and provide a nutritionally balanced diet by offering a variety of live and frozen foods.

Betta Fish and Filter Current

2007-09-30T15:14:00.001-07:00

IMG_4794, originally uploaded by Bassline Audio Visual.

Q: M wrote:

WOW I have to say that your website is quite the place to find the answers your looking for so thank you so much in helping people find the right answers to keep their wonderful fish alive and well! I was wonder now if you could help me...I bought a betta fish about a week ago and had him in a bowl at first then decided what kind of home is this I wouldnt want to live my life in some dumb fish bowl so then I decided to buy him a 2.5 gallon fish tank with filter and gravel and I have a fake plant in there for him I leave the light on from about 7:30pm till about 11:00pm plus all the sunlight he gets during the day is that okay to keep the light on that long I just dont like the idea of him being in the dark? Furthermore I was wondering the filter I got for him is 1 of those kinda cheap filters that has a high, medium and low speed I keep it on the low speed but it seems as if its not filtering at all barely any kind of stream coming out the top of the filter and the waters cloudy but then when I put it on medium power it filters great I dont want him to get sucked up into the filter though and I dont want him to be stressed to have to swim so hard Im just confused and depressed because I want him to have a great life for as long as he can. Any information would be so helpful and so appreciated please get back to me asap Loui's scaring me I dont want him to die! OH and incase you couldnt tell this is my first betta LOL :). ANother thing that I thought I'd throw in there since Im asking so many questions already is hes got filmy stuff on the top of his water and hes got build up on the sides of his tank what can I do to get rid of that? Thank you soooo much again your the reason bettas get to live such a long life your such a great source of help and answers and the pet store people are killers they dont care since its not their porblem so thank you!

A: You asked lots of great questions so I will try and answer them in order. In terms of lighting, Bettas, like most animals, use queues from nature to help them know when to be awake and when to sleep. Bettas have a natural sleep cycle that corresponds with the sun. When it's light, they are awake and when the lights go out you can often catch them sleeping in their plants or along the bottom of the tank. I like to give them about 12 hours with the light on and 12 with it off but a little more or a little less doesn't seem to cause any noticeable stress. One thing for sure is that you don't have to worry about turning the light off on your Betta. He'll appreciate the chance to catch some "Z"s.

Determining whether or not your filter is strong enough or too strong is something that a lot of Betta keepers deal with. The sludge you see on the water's surface and aquarium glass is called detritus or "mulm" and may indicate that you need to turn up the filter a little. Detritus is made up of organic compounds in the water and isn't typically harmful but can be an eyesore. Typically, to get rid of it, aquarists create a little more water movement. Since your filter has an adjustable flow control I would recommend turning it up to medium and observing things for a couple of days. If your Betta is really struggling to reach the surface or is cowering completely, then you may have no choice but to turn it down. Another thing you can do is split the difference between low and medium speeds by setting the filter control to medium and adding a few more silk aquarium plants. Extra plants in the water tend to help disperse the water flow making it easier for your fish to deal with the current.

If turning up the filter doesn't remove the detritus you can remove it from the water's surface by folding a paper towel in half and scraping the folded edge across the surface. Detritus that is sitting on the tank bottom can be sucked up with an inexpensive turkey baster, a tool that often comes in handy with Bettas.

Congratulations on your first Betta. I'm thrilled to hear you are doing your homework and providing your fish with great care.

How Bettas Handle Temperature Fluctuations

2007-09-15T21:03:00.001-07:00

mitai May2, originally uploaded by misa212.

Q: LAB wrote,

I've been looking through your blog - so much helpful information. I'm currently cycling a tank (without fish), and am trying to regulate the temperature. During the day, I've got a light on for the live plants, and the water gets to about 80-82 degrees F, and at night, it gets cooler, so I've got a heater set to 80 degrees F. I was wondering how much of a temperature fluctuation the Bettas can handle safely? The time I'm most worried about is during the day, when the light is on.

I've got a 3 gallon aquarium, (the Eclipse system).

Thanks for your great blog and website!

A: It's true that rapid water temperature changes can lead to stress in aquarium fish and even thermal shock if extreme enough but the exact number of degrees that will cause damage can be difficult to pin point.

Water temperature fluctuations generally become a problem when they

1. Are drastic (alter by several degrees)
2. Are prolonged (fish that are kept at temperatures too warm or too cold on a regular basis)
3. Fluctuate over a short period of time

These temperature changes also effect the fish differently. A drastic temperature change can cause an immediate physical or behavioral change in the Betta. It may swim erratically, float on one side or appear distressed. Less severe fluctuations of just a few degrees over time may effect the fish in a less obvious way. For instance, the immune system can be weakened leaving the Betta prone to illnesses like bacterial infections or parasites. In these cases it may not be obvious to the fish keeper that the cause was stress induced by temperature changes.

The general health of the fish also comes into play. Weak or sick fish are more likely to feel the effects of temperature fluctuations. This is one reason why breeders won't ship fish that aren't in perfect health as shipping can often expose them to fluctuations of 10 Fahrenheit degrees or more.

That said, I personally try to keep my temperature fluctuations less than 2-3 degrees Fahrenheit in a 24 hour period (or 1-2 degrees Celsius.)In the summer this can be a bit more difficult so I try my best to keep my fish healthy by feeding them a balanced nutritious diet and keeping their water very clean.

One thing you can do is reduce the amount of time you keep the light on over your tank, particularly in the warmer months. As long as he's getting ambient light he'll be fine. The tank light is really more for your benefit than the Betta, unless you are using it to grow live plants that require a lot of light.

Aim for a temperature of 78-80F. A few degrees above or below that is fine, but of course best if you can keep it stable.

Heavy Current in Betta Tank

2007-09-03T11:04:00.001-07:00

AquaOne 215L, originally uploaded by KittyKat3756.

H wrote,

I just bought a new female betta, Finona, who is quite young and small. I have her in the Eclipse 3 gallon but I noticed the current is quite strong for her. Do you have any recommendations to lessen the current? I am thinking it might get better for her once she gets bigger but any advice would be appreciated.

A: Often, when we find ourselves with a filter that doesn't allow adjustablity of the output we have to fashion ourselves some sort of homemade dampener to keep the strong current away from our bettas. In larger aquariums we are usually just trying to slow things down in the output area where the water is flowing into the tank. In a very small aquarium, like the Eclipse 3, the current can be quite strong throughout the entire tank making it a little more difficult for the fish and for us as we try to figure a way to cut the current.

In this case you may want to try cutting the toe out of a pair of pantyhose and rubberbanding it around the small water intake basket where debris is sucked into the aquarium. This is a method we often use when the suction at the intake is too great for our fish but it tends to create enough drag to slow the entire assembly. You may also want to try creating dam at the water's surface with a plastic tank divider. This method works quite well in larger aquariums and I have used it many times when breeding gouramis so that they can have perfectly still water at the surface to build their bubble nests.

To create this surface barrier I purchase one plastic mesh tank divider kit, available at just about any fish store, PetCo or PetSmart, and cut a long 1 to 2 inch strip from the mesh. I then attach it to the brackets as you would if you were setting up the divider, and attach the brackets to the sides of the aquarium, just around the flow output. Make sure the mesh is at the top of the water and sticking out the surface just a bit. (A quarter inch is fine.)

This method won't cut the current throughout the entire aquarium but will create a calm location where your girl can get away when she wants to.

A homemade mesh dam made from a mesh tank divider.

A third method, and my favorite, for cutting back on current is to plant the heck out of your aquarium. Lots of crypticorians and java ferns, not to mention little caves or ceramic hidey-holes are a great way to disperse some of that current. It's a little more costly then the other methods but it's gorgeous and fishies love it too.

Nippyfish Introduces BarePaws; A New Blog!

2007-08-25T14:09:00.001-07:00

cat TV, originally uploaded by peggy..

Dear Nippyfish readers,

Just a quick announcement. In addition to Nippyfish: A Betta Blog I have started a second blog dedicated to natural and holistic pet care called, BarePaws. I know a lot of you have dogs, cats, birds and other fury and scaly creatures at home so feel free to check it out and enjoy.

http://barepaws.wordpress.com/

Regular postings on Nippyfish: A Betta Blog will continue but won't be as frequent as they were over the past couple of years. Many of you may have noticed that post frequency has fallen to about once a week or so over the last couple of months and that's about where it will stay for awhile at least.

As always feel free to write to me with your Fighting Fish questions at betta[at]nippyfish.net

Thanks for all your support and I hope you will enjoy the BarePaws in addition to Nippyfish: A Betta Blog and Nippyfish.net.

Respectfully yours,
Christie
Nippyfish.net

Female Betta: Eggs Causing Lethargy

2007-08-25T13:37:00.001-07:00

Homegirl was practicing her MySpace pose., originally uploaded by mandynickel.

YC wrote,

Hi Christie! I have a quick question for you. When female bettas are
pregnant with eggs, and a male is no longer in sight, do they become
lethargic and have trouble eating? I was wondering how much energy reabsorption of the eggs cost them.

A: Well, my specialty is general health and not breeding so I'm afraid I can't say exactly how lethargic females get when full of eggs. As much as I would LOVE to be breeding regularly I have really done just a little, mostly just to gain knowledge. The females I have bred really haven't gotten all that big and my breeding success... well I haven't had any. :P

That said, the extra weight and pressure, and expended energy used to reabsorb the eggs could certainly lead to some lethargy. One thing you can do to help speed up her metabolism and thus increase her appetite and the rate she reabsorbs the eggs is to slowly raise the water temperature to about 80F (26.5C). If you're not already, try feeding easy to digest foods that won't absorb a lot of water like daphnia, blood worms and brine shrimp. These tasty bits may encourage her to eat and will help give her the energy she needs to reabsorb those eggs.

Older Bettas & Dropsy

2007-08-14T21:06:00.001-07:00

Curious, originally uploaded by SuperNova83.

Q: RSB wrote,

My betta's name is Nemo. I have had him for about three and a half years now. He has been sick for about two weeks. He is rather lazy and sluggish and usually sits at the bottom of his bowl. He has a big loss of appetite and hasn't really eaten anything for like two weeks. Just today, I noticed that his scales are protruding out a little bit. I read somewhere that protruding scales are a sign of dropsy. I also read that if a betta has dropsy, he usually has a bubble under his abdomen that makes him look pregnant, but my fish has no bubble. He just seems very sad and depressed.

Here is some more information:

1. I keep my fish in a fish bowl that carries about a gallon of water.
2. No, I have not tested for ammonia.
3. I have not tested him for nitrate.
4. I have not tested the pH either.
5. I am not positive on the temperature of the water. It seems a little cold. I know the water is supposed to be at about 78 degrees. I just tested his water to see if it was warm but it doesn't seem warm enough for him. It seems like it's between 70-75 degrees. I am not sure how to check the exact temperature of the water, so if you would know how, please tell me.
6. My parents change his water once a week. They pretty much change four fifths of his water.
7. We just put in about 6 drops of Aqua Safe water conditioner every time we change his water.
8. I feed him the hikari pellets. Usually, I would feed Nemo every time I saw him come up to the top of his bowl and I would see him staring at me. On average, I would feed him about 5-6 pellets a day.
9. He has no tank mates.
10. No, the tank is not planted.
11. (refer to paragraph above)

So what do you recommend I should do? Should I get him some medication or should I just focus more on the temperature of the water?

Thank you for taking the time to help out Nemo. He and I will really appreciate the help.

A: I'm sorry to hear about poor little Nemo. Unfortunately protruding scales is the most common symptom of Dropsy. A swollen abdomen, as you mentioned, is also very common but fish with Dropsy don't necessarily show both symptoms. If yours has pineconing scales then he almost definitely has dropsy.

Dropsy itself is not a disease but a symptom that can be caused by several things including a bacterial infection, virus or even parasites. It's very common in tropical fish, especially Betta splendens and sadly it is usually fatal. Dropsy can affect Bettas of any age. If you have had Nemo for 3 1/2 years he is likely about 4 years old or even as old as 4 1/2 years, which is getting up there in Betta years. It isn't unusual for older fish to become susceptible to illnesses as their immune systems weaken from old age. I also lost an older Betta to this terrible illness last year.

The only thing you can do in the later stages of Dropsy is to keep the water clean, warm and stable. To monitor your water temperature you can buy an aquarium thermometer for as little as $1 - $2 at any local fish store.

To learn more about Dropsy visit the Dropsy page.

I wish you all the best and will keep you and Nemo in my thoughts.

Heating Betta Bowls

2007-08-07T20:11:00.001-07:00

Betta Display, originally uploaded by Joseph Hoetzl.

AK wrote,

Hey there, Just stumbled across your website and i think its great. I am a first time owner and am so excited. We named him Jean-Michel, after the famous eighties art star:) So we did decide to go with a 1 gal. bowl. I understand that is a little small now and will be changing soon, but for now I wanted to know if there are any recommendations for keeping the bowl heated? The water reads at about 75, but if the whether cools off... I will be going to get a pH kit this week too. Thanks for the site.

A: Thanks for writing in and congratulations on your first Betta fish. Small fish bowls can be pretty difficult to maintain a stable, warm temperature. As you mentioned, the best way to keep the temperature stable is to increase the water volume, which will slow the rate that the temperature fluctuates. In the meantime I recommend placing the bowl in a warm location away from drafts. I have heard some people keep their bowls on top of the refrigerator or in the bathroom. Unfortunately there are no aquarium heaters made for bowls as small as one gallon and placing small bowls on a reptile mat or heating pad can quickly cause the heat to raise to unsafe levels. If you can move him to a larger container between 2 and 5 gallons then you open up other options like a mini heater.

One common mistake aquarists make when heating small bowls is to use a lamp light to warm the water. This method creates several dangers including raising the temperature too quickly, too high, and creating drastic, dangerous fluctuations when the light is turned off at night.

While not ideal, it will be better for your fish to be kept at a slightly cooler temperature that is stable then one that is warmer but fluctuates.

Photo of Jean-Michael provided by AK.

Mystery Source of Ammonia Hurting Betta Brood

2007-08-01T20:40:00.001-07:00

Blue, originally uploaded by spyzter.

EK wrote,

I'm also a betta enthusiast, and recently also became a betta breeder... I'm raising my second spawn now. I use beanie boxes because of their convenience -- I have a set of shelves holding 96 boxes (24 on each shelf), though I'm only using 72 of them right now. I know you don't recommend anything smaller than 1gal, but these (a little more than 1/3 gal) are widely used among betta breeders because of their utter convenience and ability to pack quite a lot of them into a small space (absolutely necessary for spawns of 200, 300, 400+ fry). I do 100% water changes twice a week or more, and until now my fish have been perfectly healthy.

I am writing with a mysterious problem. Ammonia is appearing in my beanie boxes at high levels, even right after water changes. Today, I measured .5ppm ammonia in my beanie boxes after doing a 100% water change yesterday!

I've been keeping beanie boxes since March and haven't encountered stressed fish before, though I must admit that I didn't regularly check the ammonia in the boxes -- I just recently began checking since I was trying to pinpoint the source of stress for some fish who unaccountably became sick. Well, ammonia was definitely the source of their stress. I had skipped a water change due to a housguest and ammonia was rearing its ugly head. I had no idea that ammonia could build up so fast if I didn't keep up with water changes. But still, I feel like my test kit shouldn't be reading so high right after a water change.

My tap water (Burlingame CA, same water source as San Francisco) is about 7.8pH, 3KH, 4GH, has chlorine, chloramines, AND has .5ppm ammonia straight out of the tap. To condition my water I use NovAqua and Amquel together. I set the pH to 6.6-6.8 using Neutral Regulator and Discus Buffer. I keep the beanie boxes heated at 80F. I feed frozen food (brine shrimp, bloodworms, mysis shrimp, krill, plankton, white mosquito larvae) and Attison's Betta food -- moderate amounts once or twice a day, more for growing juveniles. Each betta in its own box. Floating plants, no substrate.

I use the Aquarium Pharmaceutical ammonia test kit, which I believe is a salicylate test. If I'm correct, the Amquel converts the ammonia to nontoxic ammonium, which shouldn't show up on my test kit. However, even directly after treating my water with Amquel at more than a double dose, the test kit still reads some ammonia (between 0-.25ppm). And now, a day later, the ammonia is back up to .5ppm. I only fed the fish once, a small clump of frozen brine shrimp (2-6 shrimp each), so decaying matter shouldn't be the problem.

One other bit of information might be useful. I keep floating water sprite in some of the beanie boxes. Before I changed all the beanie boxes yesterday, I tested many of the boxes and found out that the boxes with water sprite had, with a few exceptions, lower ammonia than the boxes without water sprite. I hadn't changed the water in about 7 days (very unusual for me), so the ammonia was up to 2ppm in many boxes without water sprite -- a definite potential for stress and illness. The boxes with water sprite had, but for a few exceptions, ammonia at .5ppm. So I went and added water sprite to all my boxes, thinking that would keep ammonia from spiking to 2ppm and I'd go back to my normal twice-weekly water change routine to prevent it from reaching even .5ppm.

But obviously there's something else going on here, since I just discovered that my water tests at .5ppm the day after a water change, and since I can't even get the ammonia all the way to zero before I add the fish. I have a few theories:

1. The test kit is reading a false positive. This doesn't make sense, since Amquel detoxifies the ammonia by turning it to ammonium. Ammonium shouldn't register on my salicylate test kit -- or does it?

2. The Amquel is not completely effective. This also doesn't make sense, since I've tried up 4 x the normal dosage and the test kit still registers some faint green. Also, the Neutral Regulator detoxifies ammonia, so with both of those, there should be zero ammonia left in the water.

3. The chloramine is breaking down into ammonia and chlorine as a delayed reaction, and the ammonia removers are not keeping up. This doesn't make sense either because of all the extra Amquel that I've put in, as an experiment. The only way this would make sense is if the Amquel dissipates before all the chloramine is broken down into ammonia, but I doubt that's the case since the water conditioners should have broken down the chloramine immediately.

4. There is decaying matter in the boxes. I can see how this would usually be the easy answer, but it doesn't make sense that there would be .5ppm ammonia the very day after a water change. Plus, it doesn't explain why there is ammonia in the water even before putting a single fish into it.

5. The fish themselves are excreting lots of ammonia. This is a possibility, especially since I tend to feed my growing juveniles heavily. However, this theory has the same problems as decaying matter -- high ammonia appearing so soon after a change, and the water reading more than zero even directly after conditioning it.

6. There is some other mysterious source of ammonia.

7. There is some other source of a false positive on my test kit.

Well, I'm out of theories. Can you make sense out of any of this? I'm sorry for writing such a very long-winded email, but after reading everything on your site and blog, I feel that I need someone like you to lend your experience to this puzzling situation.

Thanks so much for any thoughts you might have!

A: Thanks for providing such detailed information in your email. You were answering all my questions just as fast as I was thinking of them. So, to recap, you are finding high levels of ammonia even within a day of a full water change. You are using regular AmQuel and NovAqua together and Neutral Regulator to change your pH. It sounds like, since you mentioned the green color, that you do indeed have a salicylate based ammonia test kit. Ok, now that we know all that let's see if we can figure out where the ammonia is coming from.

The very first thing I would do is create a control. Test your source water for ammonia straight out of the tap. What a lot of people don't realize is that household water can have a lot of ammonia in it. Even as much as 2.0 ppm due to agricultural runoff or just residual from the chlorination process. If ammonia is detected then this is a major find in terms of discovering the source of your problem. If not, then we know the ammonia is being caused by organic compounds from the fish and/or food. Determining which if these is the case is important.

Let's look at possible failures in the system.

1. Test Kit - While it sounds like your test kit is a salicylate kit (reads just free NH3 ammonia) there are two things to consider. First, keep in mind that tolerances for these kits are really low. Any reagent based kit you buy at the fish store has a huge variance in accuracy and it gets even worse if you buy the dip stick kind. Just keep in mind that what it says and what it is can be very different. If accuracy is important to you (it often is for breeders but not so much for the casual hobbyist) then you might want to think about investing in a more accurate kit. I am told that Salifert is the best kit you can buy at a hobby level but if you want to invest in the best then you want to look at labratory grade kits like Hach or LaMotte. Ok, I'm digressing. The other think to remember is test kits worsen with age. If you have had yours for a year, toss it. Hey, that reminds me....

2. AmQuel & NovAqua - We'll call them A&N for short. A&N are a great option because unlike other products they don't fade or become less effective over time. If you add it to the tank and ammonia builds up two days later, they will begin working when they are needed. They aren't removed until you perform a water change. That said they DO have some limitations. AmQuel has a nasty little habit of lowering pH when kh is already low and can become ineffective in very acidic water. Fortunately, ammonia becomes less toxic in very acidic water too. Just how acidic I'm not sure but I am sure the failure point is much lower then your 6.6 - 6.8 pH level. Also, keep in mind that A&N remove ammonia at a different rate depending on the pH. At a pH of 7.0 it will convert toxic ammonia in 5 minutes. At a high pH it will take longer and in acidic water it will take longer still.

3. Neutral Regulator - I'm afraid the bottle is misleading you when it says it detoxifies ammonia. As I mentioned above, ammonia is more dangerous in water with a ph above 7.0 (called basic or alkaline). When you lower the pH the ammonia isn't AS dangerous to the fish but it isn't "detoxified" per se. On the flip side, if you were using pH regulator to raise your pH you would be making your ammonia MORE toxic. It's all relative. This doesn't mean we should all go out and buy pH Down. Altering pH is a dangerous practice in and of itself. A severe pH crash can do more damage a lot faster then an ammonia spike. I generally recommend working with the pH you have rather than trying to alter it.

But wait.. there's more.

To get a little deeper into the relationship between ammonia and pH you have to look at the molecules. When we measure the pH levels we are counting the amount of hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl ions (OH-) present in the sample. An increased level of hydrogen ions [less bonded] means the sample will be more acidic. When less hydrogen ions (H+) and more hydroxyl ions (OH-) are present [more bonded] the sample will become basic instead. When both the hydrogen (H+) and hydroxyl ion (OH-) levels are about the same the sample is neutral. In acidic water ammonia ions (NH3) react with water to create ammonium ions (NH4+) and hydroxyl ions (OH-). When water is basic the reaction goes the opposite way because, as mentioned earlier, there is already an abundance of hydroxyl ions present in basic water. Instead of creating ammonium (NH4+) out of ammonia (NH3) and water (H2O) the hydroxyl ions (OH-) split from ammonium (NH4+) to create ammonia (NH3) and water (H2O).

Confused?

Ok. I will just get to my theory. I'm guessing there is ammonia in your tap water. You are lowering the pH from basic to acidic and treating with AmQuel and NovAqua. Then over a several hours the pH begins to rise again (this happens naturally due to the carbonate hardness (KH) in your water) and the non-toxic NH4+ is converting back into harmful NH3. This combined with heavy feeding and a couple less water changes then necessary is too much for your A&N to handle and you pick up the readings on your test kit.

What I recommend doing is testing your tap water for ammonia, lay off of the Neutral Regulator and increase the number of water changes to every other day. Keeping healthy plants like you have been doing is a great way to help fight ammonia too. It seems like a lot, but honestly, breeders would tell you daily full changes are the only way to insure a healthy brood. Kudos to you for all your hard work and for taking the leap into Betta breeding.

Installing an Air Stone

2007-07-29T21:32:00.001-07:00

Betta Bubble Maker, originally uploaded by devroka.

Q: MS wrote,

I recently rescued a Betta fish from being the leftover of a center piece at a wedding and I just setup a tank for the little guy in my apartment.

I purchased 1.5 gallon tank and the tank came with an airstone system in it. Now I have been trying to read up as much as possible online regarding Betta, and I seem to be reading a lot of mix opinions regarding moving water with Betas.

I am generally concerned that the airstone would disturb my fish's ability to build a bubble nest. Is there a proper recommendation on how often I should run the airstone, if at all?

Also how should I adjust the height of the output top of the airstone in relation to the top of the water? Should the water level be equal to the airstone output, or should it be slightly lower so the upcoming air slightly spills out?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Great site by the way, it is very informative for me regarding me newly saved fish.

A: Great question. Betta splendens, unlike most fish, have a special lung-like organ called a labyrinth organ located near their gills. They share this special organ with other anabantoids like Gouramis and Paradise Fish. The labyrinth organ allows fish who are found naturally in water with low dissolved oxygen levels to gulp air directly from atmosphere at the water's surface. Because of this specialized adaption, Bettas don't require air stones to oxygenate the water.

Air stones are typically most helpful in aquariums with very little water movement. If you are running a HOB filter (Hang on Back) the water usually gets enough oxygen from the filter's output. A tank with an under-gravel filter doesn't get much water movement and may benefit from an air stone. Another reason for using an air stone would be to keep the water surface in a bowl without a filter agitated so unsightly detritus doesn't form. Other's choose to add air stones entirely for their aesthetic appeal, which can add quite a nice effect if hidden within the aquarium decor.

In terms of bubblenest building, an air stone will make it virtually impossible for the bubbles to stay unless you have a portion of the tank sanctioned off where there is no surface movement. Observing bubblenest building is interesting and impressive but not necessary. No harm will come to the Betta if he can't build a bubblenest. In most cases, even the mild surface agitation created by the filter is too much for bubbles to hold.

There are dozens of styles of air stones so how you install them may differ slightly but in most cases there are four components important to installing an air stone. First, cut a small piece of air tubing (a few inches long at most) and attach it to the air pump. Then install an inexpensive reverse-flow valve. This will keep the water from siphoning out of the tank and onto the floor in the event of a power outage. Next, attach a longer piece of air tubing to the other side of the reverse-flow valve. To determine how long the tubing needs to be, consider where you will be keeping the pump and allow enough room to run the tubing all the way to the bottom of the tank. You can always trim it down if it is too long. Finally, attach the air stone itself to the end of the tube.

Remember, the water at the bottom of the tank gets less oxygen then the surface. To provide ample oxygenation to bottom dwelling species, you'll want to attach the stone near the bottom or even under the substrate if you want to keep it hidden. I like to hide mine in the back under the sand or behind lush plant material so only the bubbles are visible.

Unstable PH Looks Like Common Bettas Disease

2007-07-24T22:11:00.001-07:00

castor, originally uploaded by haleyluna.

Q: J wrote,

I have a Crowntail Splendid Betta; named Bartholomew, whom I've had for 1½ years now. I keep him in a 5½ gallon tank with a filter, heater set at 73 degrees, and an air pump with no added tank mates. The tank environment consists of two plastic plants, four fabric plants, a castle for a hideout, two small Java ferns and blue, white and black aquarium rocks at the bottom of the tank.

I premix my water one day before I do my 20% water change, which is every week. The pre-mixture consists of stress coat and ½ teaspoon of aquarium salt. Before cleaning Bartholomew's tank, I take him out and put him into a cup that holds 1½ cups of conditioned water. After changing the water and cleaning his tank by light vacuuming; I check the temperature, pH, ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. They are now reading: Temperature - 80 degrees, pH was 7.5, now reading 7.0, Ammonia - 0, Nitrites - 0, Nitrates - 10. Sometimes I have to add pH down, which consists of a total of six - ten drops during the course of two days. Recently, I read that adding pre-soaked peat moss to the filter cartridge helps keep the pH level from rising above 7.0; this is better than adding a chemical to lower it; please give advice?

I feed him twice everyday; a daily total of 3 - 4 live black worms, 3 - 4 dried blood worms and once a week presoaked pellets and occasional brine shrimp. Bartholomew was a very active Betta; swimming and flaring at everything - the filter, the heater and even his owners. Also, he would get excited by your presence and most of all getting his food. Although, Bartholomew is still swimming around and eating a well-balanced diet; approximately 3 - 4 weeks ago I noticed a change in the little guy's personality; he seemed to be lying at the bottom of the tank most of the time and acting very lethargic. His colors are still vibrant; fins are free of any tears, no signs of any parasites, bacterial or fungal infection. I do notice a couple little white dots; but they do not appear raised. I started to wonder if he might have ick. To be on the safe side I started treating him with Melafix and Pimafix.

I spoke to Aquarium Adventure, a fish store and they stated that he is just getting old. Could this be true? Can he be acting this way so quickly - just lying at the bottom of the tank; being lethargic? Is there a possibility that he has contracted a parasite or some type of infection that could be making him act this way without visual signs? Also, could I have possibly fed him bad food?

After completing the seven day treatment of Melafix and Pimafix without the activated carbon; I did a 25% water change. Bartholomew only responded a little to the Melafix and Pimafix treatment. A few days later I decided to perform a Methylene Blue dip by setting up a 1 gallon hospital tank; I added one gallon of water from my display tank and than added less than 1½ teaspoons of Methylene Blue. I netted my Betta, Bartholomew from his display tank and dipped him into the Methylene Blue mixture for a total of 8 - 9 seconds. I then immediately removed him and placed him back into the display tank. The reason why I performed this treatment was because he still had a couple white dots near his gills; and both of his eyes had a couple of cloudy spots on them. He was also still acting very lethargic.

The day after his Methylene Blue treatment, I noticed a change in his behavior; he started to act a little himself again; swimming around a little more and flaring a little. His appetite is still excellent and his colors are more vibrant. I still feel that Bartholomew has not fully recovered from his illness. So my question is: should I perform another Methylene Blue dip or do you recommend another course of treatment due to his cloudy eye problem? If I do another Methylene Blue dip, how much should I use and how long should the dip be? Should I be doing the dip periodically until he gets better? Should I treat him in the hospital tank with a small dose of aquarium tetracycline instead of the Methylene Blue? Or, should I give him an aquarium salt treatment in the hospital tank? Please give advice. I really want to see my little guy be himself again. Thanks for your help.

A: Thanks for writing in and providing such detailed information. It really helps to understand better what is happening with your little Bartholomew.

As fish keepers it is very common for us to worry when our finned family members get sick and it is our natural instinct for us to want to treat them with anything and everything we have at our disposal. It's easy to forget that medicine is a complicated dance between diagnosis and treatment. As with human treatment, medications have specific uses, can cause side effects and add additional stress to the body of those being treated. Before treating with any medication try to determine a reasonable diagnosis for your fish and choose the medication accordingly. Methylene Blue, the primary ingredient in external parasite medications like Rid-Ich+, work great to treat Ich but still exposes your fish to a chemical. MelaFix and PimaFix aren't bad as a treatment for open wounds or minor exterior infections, but don't contain any properties for parasite treatment, can contribute to antibiotic resistant bacteria and in the case of Melafix is overly potent for sensitive bettas despite its marketing as a holistic remedy.

I mention this because you are utilizing a lot of medicine without strong evidence of a specific disease. One or two white specs on your fish may or may not be Ich parasites. Bettas do occasionally get white salt-like granules that can only be described as pimples. These look nearly identical to Ich but only appear a couple at a time, don't spread and dissappear on their own in a couple of days. If your Betta has Ich, you'll know it fast as the parasites reproduce until he is infested with white salt-like granules. Before treating with Ich medication, be sure to read up on the life cycle of the parasite. Understanding it's three part life cycle is the only way to truly understand how to treat it successfully. For an easy guide to treating Ich, check out:

Ichthyophthirius multifiliis

If you determine your betta does have Ich, you may opt to treat him in the hospital tank with a lower concentration of Methylene Blue for 7 days or as a daily dip of 12mg/l for up to 10 minutes. This is a parasite treatment though, so if Bartholomew doesn't have an infestation, Methylene Blue won't help. Similarly with MelaFix and PimaFix. These medicines treat abrasions and surface infections and won't be as effective on other ailments.

That said, I want to mention the cause I suspect for Bart's lethargy, PH fluctuations. As you know, the optimal pH for a betta tank is slightly acidic. (A pH of about 6.8 is perfect) It is really easy to want to fix the pH until it falls exactly where you want it but in actuality, adjusting your pH is much more dangerous then leaving it stable right where it is, even if it's a lot higher then you would think is safe. A stable pH of 8.0 is a lot better for your Betta then a pH that fluctuates between 7.5 and 7.0. PH that becomes rapidly more acidic is called a pH crash and can actually cause sudden shock and death. PH adjustment drops are inconsistent and depend entirely on your carbonate hardness levels (KH). Adding drops will cause your pH to fall fast and return right back where it was in a few hours/days. This fluctuation will be far more stressful to your fish then leaving it right where it is. Most tropical fish are resilient enough to adapt and many were bred in water out of their ideal pH level. If your pH is very high (above 8.0) you can add peat pellets to the tank but again, you will need to become familiar with your carbonate hardness, which determines how easily your pH can be altered. I suspect the lethargy your betta was experiencing was caused by the variation in PH.

Overly adjusting PH is a very common mistake fish keepers make and I have written quite a bit about it. To read more try these links:

Adjusting Aquarium PH Level

PH Crashes: The Roll of Carbonate Hardness

Hope you find this helpful. Thanks for writing in and I hope Bartholomew feels better soon.

Betta splendens with Ich parasites

Abdominal Bleeding in Betta with Dropsy

2007-07-17T21:30:00.001-07:00

pastel rainbow / un arcoiris color pastel, originally uploaded by Citlali257.

Q: SL wrote,

My beta Spooky most definitely has dropsy, but out of all the articles i've read on it, none have talked about other problems I'm having with him, which is making me to believe this is a really bad case. He barely eats now and barely moves. He hangs out at the bottom of his bowl. When I noticed the scales sticking out, I tried to get him to move. When he did, I noticed red spots on his belly and what looks like his belly ripped open. I attached photos of it. I'm afraid it might be too late for him but I've treated him with aquarium solutions beta revive, which the people at my local pet store gave me. I've had to keep him on a top shelf away from the cats. If he wasn't up there, maybe I would have notice sooner. I feel really bad. I've had fish all my life but I've never had a fish with any illness, so I'm completely at a lost. If he is dying, what else can I do to make it easier for him and about how much longer? I hate seeing him like this.

A:Dropsy is a terrible disease. I have lost several fish to it myself and I know how heartbreaking it can be to see your Betta suffer. Unfortunately, tropical fish rarely overcome Dropsy. The pineconing and bloating you see is believed to be caused by internal organ failure and the accumulation of fluids in the body. Once it becomes noticeable it's usually too late. The redness you are seeing is blood under the surface of a severely stretched abdominal area. The options are limited, I'm afraid, to trying to make him comfortable in his final days or fish euthanasia if you think he is suffering.

For severe bloating you can give him an Epsom salt bath to help combat the swelling. Add 1/2 teaspoon Epsom salt per gallon to a bowl of tank water and soak him for 15 minutes. (make sure the water temperature is the same as the water you are removing him from.) You can also try adding Epsom to his tank but at a reduced concentration of 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water. Results are mixed but it can be helpful in many cases of severe bloating. It's important to know this isn't a cure, just a way to reduce some of the osmotic stress and bloating.

Some aquarists prefer to euthanize very sick fish but this can be difficult for many people, especially those who keep fish as pets (rather then large quantities for breeding). If you have the stomach for it, there are several safe and humane methods to put your fish to sleep. Click to read more about fish euthanasia at Nippyfish.net.

I'm sorry you are going through this with your little Betta. It's a really hard thing to watch them go through and unfortunately it is very common, especially among Bettas. You can take solace in knowing you did everything you could for him and are certainly not alone. I lost my oldest Betta to Dropsy last year and it was really tough even though I knew he was old and wouldn't be with me long.

For more information on Dropsy in general, visit our Dropsy page.

Avoiding Mini-cycles

2007-07-15T22:48:00.001-07:00

gustav1, originally uploaded by girlpirate.

DW wrote,

I just wanted to write to you, and say thank you so much for putting up your site! I've learned so much from it! I also am in love with the betta photos you put up with each post. Simply amazing. Make me wanna set up my tripod and take a few rolls of my baby with my SLR since my digi doesn't do him justice!

But now, down to business. I wanted your opinion on how to prevent mini cycles from happening. Yes, yes against what I've read, I have been cycling with my precious Gackt (pronounced Gack-tow) in the tank. But I've done water checks frequently and changed 25% of the water once a week at least. Also, I was using Splendid Betta water conditioner but changed to Prime which was recommended by a friend.

I was happy because for the past two or three weeks I've read 0 anmonia with very low nirite. I just did a water change on either friday or saturday (my memory is grand like that) and when I tested to today it detected anomia. Of course que the freak out from me, so I did another water change.

I am aware of "mini" cycles and know they can happen if you don't give the bacterica a chance to culture. I've had my 3 gal eclipse tank with a bio-wheel for over a month now. I have yet to change the filter and I can't quite tell if the bio-wheel has a culture growing on it, I check every once in a while to see, thus why I've kept the filter in thinking perhaps the bracteria has been culturing on that.

Should I perhaps try seeding with gravel from our 20-some gal fully cycled tank in our living room and help give the bacteria a boost? Any suggestions would be great.

The stats again

3 gallon tank (bio-wheel and filter)

Temp: average 78

Food: Hikari Gold pellets three at a time twice a day

Prime water coniditoner

25% water changes once a week

No meds no salt

Gackt is acting his usual self happily making bubble nests and wiggle dancing when it's feeding time. Attaching a picture of him for you to see. I just want to prevent the headache of mini cycles. Thanks for your time Christie it means the world to me!

A: Mini-cycles generally occur during the fragile period when the tank is new and happen because of something we do to either remove nitrifying bacterial colonies (like removing the filter media) or by rapidly adding food for the bacteria (like adding additional fish). In a well established tank it's a lot harder to cause these mini cycles to occur.

In a tank like yours that is newly cycling you may cause mini cycles by changing the filter, aggressively vacuuming the gravel, doing massive water changes or removing fish from the aquarium. Often doing just one of these things aren't enough to cause a mini cycle but doing a couple in combination certainly could. For instance, removing the filter media and siphoning the gravel may upset the cycle. Doing regular weekly water changes as you have been doing may cause mini cycles too but in this case you are cycling with your fish so these multiple water changes are necessary to keep the fish safe. It sounds like your tank is nearly finished cycling. In the mean time I recommend leaving your filter media in place and only vacuuming a little once a week or every other week until the tank is well established.

The dark material you may be seeing on the bio-wheel, filter bag or gravel is organic material (mulm)and isn't the bacteria itself, which you can't see with the naked eye, however, it is likely full of bacteria. The only way to really know if bacteria is present is by measuring it's byproducts from them (nitrite and nitrate). For nitrite and nitrate to be measurable nitrifying bacteria must be present. When you test your water and see the ammonia and nitrite levels spike and fall and the nitrate begin to rise you then know the bacteria has reproduced fast enough and to large enough colonies to consume the ammonia and nitrite as fast as it's being made. That is why the ammonia reads 0. The nitrite will read 0 too when the bacterial colonies are as large as they're going to get and you will see the nitrates then begin to rise. Nitrate is the final byproduct of nitrifying bacteria. If it exists then the bacteria exists.

If you have gravel from an established tank available to you I definitely suggest using it. Adding bacteria from another tank is much faster way to cycle. In many cases you can cut the entire process down to just a few days rather then trying to culture the bacteria practically from scratch, which can take 4 - 6 weeks. If you've got it, I say go for it.

Good luck with your new tank and kudos to you for taking the time to learn about the nitrogen cycle.

Image of Gackt provided by DW

Betta's Body Turning Black

2007-07-12T21:14:00.001-07:00

Emmy and her plant, originally uploaded by CerLynn.

Q: YC wrote,

Hi Christie! I love your site and your blog! They are very detailed and I admire how much time and effort you dedicate to this hobby. Bettas are beautiful, lovable fish and it's nice to visit a site whose owner is not only knowledgeable, but with a deep fondness all betta owners can relate to.

I have a question, and it's not too urgent, but any help you can give me on this matter would be very appreciated. =)

My first betta, Tempest, has lost a huge patch of color from his body. He was all blue except for his head which was hooded black, and now part of his back is the same color as his head. I have not yet tested the water of the tank because I doubt it is a factor of his color change. (My three other bettas are all in water from the same source and they're all peachy and younger than he is.)

1. What is your tank size? *One gallon, in a bowl

2. Have you tested for ammonia- what were the results? *No

3. Have you tested for nitrite- what were the results?* No

4. Have you tested for nitrate- what were the results?* No

5. Have you tested for pH- what were the results? *No

6. What temperature is your tank? *83 degrees Fahrenheit

7. How often do you perform water changes, how much water do you change? *Once a week, full water changes

8. What water additives are you using (please include any conditioners, salt or medications) *I use Aquasafe conditioner, 1/2 tsp aquarium salt, and 1 drop of aquarisol. Currently, Tempest has fin rot and is being medicated with Mardel's Tetracycline.

9. What type of food are you feeding, how often and how much? *3 pellets of betta bits, and bloodworms every few days.

10. What kind of tank mates, when were they added? * No tank mates

11. Is your tank planted? *Only a plastic/silk plant

12. What are the symptoms, when did they begin and is there anything else we should know? *Ahh, to the good stuff. Around the same time Tempest developed fin rot (a week and a half ago), he lost a patch of blue from his back. I was worried he was sick, but no symptom of any sickness I've heard of was like this. He is not bloated, pineconing, or itching. There is no ich or velvet sheen on the black patch. In fact, despite the fact that he lost color, he is pretty much normal, except for the naps. He often takes naps (rests at the bottom of the bowl), and is doing it much more than he used to. It may be him recovering from fin rot.

My suspicion is that he is getting old (I gauge him to be 1 1/2 to 2 years now) and the loss of color is a sign of him aging...but I am not sure. Today, he is losing color from another patch. I hope this is not too serious! I look forward to your reply and thanks for your help!

A: Thanks for writing in about Tempest. I agree, Bettas sure are beautiful and I love them too. Let's see if we can figure out what might be happening to your fishy. One thing I am confident of is this color loss you are describing is likely not caused by old age. Symptoms of old age are progressive and often take many months or even years to develop. The rapid color loss you are observing is being caused by some sort of external force. (Perhaps a bacteria, fungus or toxin exposure) Also, 1.5 - 2 years is about middle age for a Betta and is a little premature to be showing significant aging symptoms. With good genes, proper care and a little luck a Betta can live 5 years or more. Old age symptoms are more likely to manifest in Bettas who are 3 to 4 years old. Check out the link for more info on Aging Bettas.

One recommendation I can make right away is to test your water parameters. I know you don't think there is anything wrong but the vast majority of fish illnesses are caused by something out of wack in the water. The fin rot you described, for example, is nearly always caused by exposure to toxic ammonia, nitrite or some other stressor. Beyond that, each tank should be tested even if the other fish are healthy. There are so many factors that alter the water parameters that each tank could be vastly different from the one next to it even if the source water is the same. Each Betta, for instance, metabolizes food at a different rate making ammonia build faster in one bowl over another. You could have one tank that needs cleaning every 7 days while another needs cleaning every 4 days. Fish, like people, are different too. Some fish are more prone to illness then others so having two healthy fish doesn't mean that the third isn't experiencing environmental stress. These factors include genes, previous exposure to environmental hazards, diet, age, and other factors. Although you said there were no signs of illness it sounds like there are. Color loss itself is a very common sign of illness as is fin rot and lethargy (the napping you described.)

The one thing that I found most curious is what you said about the color change. You mentioned that his head was black and now his body is the same color as his head (black). This is interesting because color loss in fish is generally described as a fading in color, lighter shade of color or a change to light gray or brown. Your Betta getting darker isn't as common and is usually a good sign that your Betta is feeling better. It's possible that the color change is coming on as he recovers from his fin rot. It's difficult to say for sure though until you test your water parameters.

There isn't an obvious answer for the darker color as it isn't typical of the more common fungal or bacterial infections. Just test your water and if the fin rot is improving finish the course of tetracycline and treat with only fresh, clean, conditioned water. See if any change occurs once he's off the meds (they can add stress too) and consider going without the aquarium salt as that may effect him over time as well.

One other thing I wanted to add, though not necessarily related to the problem, is his food portions are a bit low. You are right to feed your Bettas sparingly because overfeeding can cause a lot of problems with this species but a normal healthy portion would be about 3 pellets (and/or bloodworms) one to two times per day rather than once every three days. Too little food, over time, could lead to a nutritional deficiency and health problems.

Well, I know this wasn't the hard and fast answer you were probably hoping for. Darkening color is a tricky one without the ability to test the fish. Do keep an eye out for other symptoms like fuzzy or slimy patches or open sores that could be a sign of a true fungus. (The only other thing I can think of that may cause dark discoloration) Also, look for signs of improvement. It's certainly possible that the color change is a positive sign.

Light Sensitive Goldfish

2007-07-08T22:16:00.001-07:00

the smile, originally uploaded by glenn..

Q: MM wrote,

You've helped me in the past with one of my Bettas (he had swim bladder trouble). I have a quick question about one of my goldfish. I have 2 large goldfish (almost about a foot long, each), also one large algae eater and a small bottom feeder (15 yrs. old) lives in this cave and hardly ever comes out. They're all in a 50-gallon with filters, etc. For the last month, one of my large goldfish has been acting very strangely, but only when I turn the aquarium lights out. He starts swimming upside down, and sort of "spinning and twisting". It's like he has no idea where the top and bottom of the tank are once I turn the lights off. I've tried leaving one light on for him in the tank, but then the fish swim around all night and don't sink to the bottom and sleep like usual...all because of the light being on, they get confused and don't know when it's daytime/night. We hear him splashing around all night and I can't figure out why he won't sleep like usual alongside the other goldfish (that's what they would always do). He just keeps swimming upside down and doing this twisting motion all the way to the top. As soon as it starts getting light outside again, he's perfectly fine (even before I turn the aquarium lights on). I've even tried putting a night-light next to the aquarium, but that doesn't help. He only swims normally when both aquarium lights are on or when it's daytime (early a.m. before I turn their lights on). Now sometimes he does look a little topsy-turvy even during the day, but it's NOTHING compared to how he swims at night...it's just awful to watch him struggling like that. This other fish-guy told me that maybe the algae eater is chasing him at night and he's having some kind of nervous reaction to it...but that's not it. I've watched them and that algae eater has no interest in anything besides his algae wafers :-) Any advice would be greatly appreciated...I'm thinking maybe it's his eyesight? Thanks again.

A:
This is pretty strange behavior. I understand why the fish guy blamed the algae eater as many have a bad habit of attaching themselves to goldfish at night and sucking on their slime coats. If you don't think this is it, then I trust your judgment. You'd probably catch him in the act anyway.

That said it could be some sort of visual impairment like cataracts or cloudy-eye but in both of those instances you can see the filmy coating on the fish's eye. If your goldfish's eyeballs look clear then I might consider another reason for his anxiety. It's possible they are out-growing their aquarium and he's feeling cramped or that he is seeing some sort of reflection when the lights are off. (Though usually reflections are caused when the lights are on.) Swim bladder disorder is also very common among goldfish so you could be experiencing the same problem as you did with your Betta.

I'm afraid I have no experience with goldfish so I can only give general suggestions of what the problem might be. I do recommend checking all the water parameters to make sure there aren't any toxins in the water and that the ph, gh and temperature are all at good levels. I also recommend chatting with some folks who know their cold water fish as some of the illnesses for them may be different then with tropicals which I'm more familiar with.

Try Goldie Town at the Aquamaniacs forum for good advice, also the aquarists at The Freshwater Aquarium newsgroup on Google Groups are an amazing resource and there are lots of pond keepers there who are very familiar with goldfish.

Hope these are helpful and please do let me know if you find out what is wrong with your goldie. I'm always interested in learning about fish I haven't had experience with.

Aquatic Veterinary Specialists

2007-07-03T22:18:00.001-07:00

First 10g, originally uploaded by John_Zhang.

Hey Nippyfish Readers! It's late and I'm sort of tired so rather than posting the usual Q&A, I'm just going to reprint this really nice email I got today from a reader. It was so thoughtful, it made my day. The emails I get from readers are really what make the blog as successful as it is. So thanks again to you all, the readers for emailing your questions and comments. Happy 4th of July to my fellow American readers too. Enjoy the holiday and stay safe. :)

MB, DVM wrote:

I'm a veterinarian who aspires to work with fish and other aquatic animals when I "grow up," and I just wanted to let you know that your site is a wonderful wealth of knowledge and experience in betta keeping. I was impressed by the content, and I would definitely refer clients with questions about their betta and for examples of good husbandry practice to take a look at your site. I've done lots of work with veterinarians in public aquarium and tropical fish aquaculture settings, and I wish that more vets out there understood the importance of knowing at least the basics about good fish husbandry, so laypeople would look to us, not pet store workers (nothing against them, some are very good at what they do, but as you know, some of them aren't!) to get advice on pet fish health and husbandry. Just thought I'd give you a smile with some words of kindness...
Enjoy your 4th of July Holiday!

If any of you fish hobbyists out there know of a great veterinarian that knows his/her fish and want to share them with the rest of the world, please to let us hear your recommendations.

Betta Illness Develops After New Fish Arrive

2007-06-30T22:16:00.001-07:00

beauty in the bottle, originally uploaded by anzyAprico.

Q: LM & SM wrote,

What is your tank size?
Dudley's normal home is a 20 Gal

Have you tested for ammonia- what were the results?

Yes, I'm a bit of a fanatic here - I use the Mardel master kit strips at least twice a week. All readings are great.

What temperature is your tank?

Between 82 - 84 degrees

How often do you perform water changes, how much water do you change?

Tank is cleans every Saturday with a 25 percent water change

What water additives are you using (please include any conditioners,
salt or medications)

API Stress Coat and Stress Zyme

What type of food are you feeding, how often and how much?

Dudley loves Bloodworms and Brine Shrimp (frozen cubes). He has a couple worms in the morning and the shrimp cube in the evening

What kind of tank mates, when were they added?

2 Corydoras, 2 Algae Eaters have been with Dudley since we've had him. However, recently we purchased 4 orange/with black on tips of tails kind of tetra fish.

Is your tank planted?

We have live plants in the tank but they don't seem to root. I remove them each week and clean them.

What are the symptoms, when did they begin and is there anything else we should know?

We've had Dudley since December 4, 2006. He is (was) a gorgeous red betta. Usually very active but about two months ago I noticed he was staying up at the top of the tank by the heater a lot and his ventral fins getting smaller (around the time we introduced the 4 tetras) however I have never seen them go near him. We began treating Dudley with Melefix and Prifix recommended to us by a guy who works in the Aquarium department at Petsmart. It didn't seem to make any difference after 7 days of treatment. We then tried Fungus Eliminator by Jungle but still no results. Two weeks ago Dudley started getting bigger in his abdomen. At that point we moved Dudley to a 2 Gallon hospital tank. It has a small heater and air stone bar. We did not add any gravel or plants. It was suggested to us that Dudley may be constipated so we held off on his meals for a day and then fed him the inside of a pea which he seemed to enjoy. As Dudley has become larger I have desperately been trying to find information on what this could be so that we could treat him correctly but I think I have too much, overwhelming information now. It could be Dropsy/Bloat/Swim Bladder Disorder or a Tumor. I though it might be dropsy but Dudley doesn't show signs of the pinecone effect people talk about so much. It is just his tummy which now looks 3 times bigger than normal. I reduced the water in the hospital tank to 1 Gallon so that he didn't have so far up to go for air. He only goes for air if he has to now. He spends most of his time balancing on his large tummy at the bottom of the tank. His gills are working very fast and I can't bear the thought of my beloved Betta suffering. I found your website and blog by accident and think it is by far the best I've seen and I've been on so many over the past weeks. I spend a lot of time in tears lately and wish I could do more for Dudley. It is heart breaking to watch him. I was at the point over the weekend where I thought (and read) about Euthanasia and purchased the medication on line but took note of your article because Dudley has a least eaten a bit of pea every now and again and he still doesn't like the net too much when I move him to an Epsom Salt bath.

If you have any thoughts/suggestions you can offer us we would be so very grateful. Dudley now seems to be leaning to the side and hasn't eaten for me today. I'm fearing the worst.

Thank you so much for your beautiful and informative website and blog. It has helped so much.

A: Hi. Thanks for writing with Dudley's story. I'm so sorry to hear that he isn't well. It's hard to say exactly what is wrong with your little Betta but I do have a couple of thoughts. First, I don't think constipation is likely in this case. Since he had both fin deterioration and bloated abdomen that came on suddenly without a change in his feeding routine and because his condition is so severe (laying on his side) we can make a reasonable guess that the problem is pathogenic in nature. (Some kind of bacteria or virus). The other major factor that contributes to this diagnosis is the addition of new aquarium fish. Adding fish to a tank without properly quarantining them for several weeks puts existing fish at great risk. Transmission of disease from new fish is so common that many experienced fish keepers will automatically assume the new fish are harboring diseases whether or not they really know for sure. Usually keeping new fish in a separate tank for four or more weeks is adequate, making sure not to cross contaminate nets, siphons and other shared equipment. If the new fish show no signs of illness after four weeks then they are probably safe to add to the community tank.

In this case you said the water parameters were all in the safe range but your Betta was loosing fin tissue. I'm guessing that your orange and black tetras may actually be Tiger Barbs which have a reputation for being fin nippers, though many tetras can be aggressive to slow moving, long finned Bettas. It's possible Dudley got his fins nipped by the barbs which led the open wounds to become infected leading to the onset of Dropsy. Of course I can't say with total certainty but all the factors are there that make this quite plausible.

The swollen abdomen you describe is quite common with Dropsy and while we commonly associate the condition with pineconing, in reality the pineconing probably only happens in less than half of the cases. I tend to tell people that pineconing is a nearly sure sign of Dropsy but Dropsy doesn't require pineconing. It may help to compare Dudley's situation with examples from other Nippyfish readers. Visit The Many Faces of Dropsy, Betta with Severely Swollen Abdomen, and Dropsy: Ruling Out Constipation.

Continue to keep Dudley away from other fish and if the net is severely stressing him then I would recommend foregoing the Epsom salt baths unless you noticed they are making a significant difference. I will keep you and Dudley in my thoughts. Again, I'm sorry to hear the little guy is so sick.

Illness Passed from Locally Caught Fish

2007-06-25T21:22:00.001-07:00

Q: EW wrote,

I am in quite a stand still with what is wrong with my betta and I do not want to lose him! A few days ago I noticed a "film" if you will on my fish. I did a complete water change, and the symptoms went away and the fish resumed it's happy behavior. Last night I noticed a bit of the film had returned. When I woke up this morning the fish had gotten much worse! The film is white in color with a cottony, lacy texture that has consumed it's entire body, focusing mainly on the body and not so much of the fins. There are no ulcers, sores, lesions or wounds on the fish, just this film that has consumed him! I fear that I have little time to correct this before I lose him. I looked up some things before I went to bed, and then again this morning, but am still at a loss as to what it may be. Do you have any idea? Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

A: A filmy coating on a fish is usually one of two things; a bacterial infection like Favobacterium columnare which can be life threatening if left untreated or an overactive slime coat, which isn't usually very dangerous but may signal some sort of irritation. An overactive slime coat may be the result of adding aquarium salt to the water or possibly even be caused by the type of water conditioner you are using.

To read up on Flavobacterium columnare visit the treatment page on the Nippyfish website.

Also, let me know a bit about your cleaning regimen and tank set up so we can narrow down the cause. Here is the list of questions that will help me to understand better what is happening in your tank. You can find these questions in the future by viewing the HELP TEXT link or by clicking the "READ ME" link on the Blog. Answer them as best as you can and definitely take a look at the treatment page for Flavobacterium columnare.

1. What is your tank size?

2. Have you tested for ammonia- what were the results?

3. Have you tested for nitrite- what were the results?

4. Have you tested for nitrate- what were the results?

5. Have you tested for pH- what were the results?

6. What temperature is your tank?

7. How often do you perform water changes, how much water do you change?

8. What water additives are you using (please include any conditioners,
salt or medications)

9. What type of food are you feeding, how often and how much?
10. What kind of tank mates, when were they added?

11. Is your tank planted?

12. What are the symptoms, when did they begin and is there anything
else
we should know?

EW Follow-up:

Thank you so much for answering so quickly Christie. The tank that I have him in is a one gallon that came with a light and a little filter. There are no other tank mates, just him. I do have a live plant in there with him. The reason that he got this infection was because I was stupid and put a tiny crawfish that I had found in a river in with him. Needless to say, the crawfish died shortly after and within a few hours I had noticed this infection. I use bottled spring water with a dab of stress coat for his water, and it get's changed every Saturday. I've never had any problems with this method, and have been doing it with my betta that I have in my office at work for the past two years. SO I know it was my mistake for putting in the crawfish. It is a bacterial infection and I went to the store and bought "Betta fix" it has made all of the fuzz fall off of him, and he seems to be doing better then he was. I think now is just a matter of time for him to recover, so the good news is, I think I caught it just in time. Whichever infection this was, it was very fast working in regards to killing a fish. To be sure, I bleached (diluted) everything associated with his tank ie rocks, filter, tank, net last night and have laid it out in the sun for the day just to make sure if any residue is still present that it will be broken down before I set it back up. As stated before, I do believe that he will be fine, but once again, thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly.

Nippyfish Reply:

Thanks for the follow-up. I have to agree, adding the wild crawfish likely introduced some sort of nasty bug to your Betta tank. Most Bettas found at local fish stores have been domestically bred for generations and just don't have the ability to fight off bacteria from foreign waterways. If the Bettafix is working for you, which it sounds like it is, then go ahead and continue to use it until all signs of the infection are gone.

I'm glad to hear you fish is doing better and thanks for writing in.

Betta Changes Color

2007-06-17T11:28:00.001-07:00

Betta Close Up, originally uploaded by sammorrowphotography.

Q: CL wrote,

I have a Betta, my first fish. He is in a three gallon tank that has a filter and light. It's the Eclipse System Tank and has a replaceable carbon filter. I feed him freeze dried blood worms. I see that after looking at your blog that is not good and I am changing that to frozen. He is a beautiful deep purplish blue with a black velvet head. Well, until two days ago. I noticed his top fin feathers changed to white then seem to get bigger and looked rather lavender but still edged in white. His black head first started getting golden rings around his eyes. Now today his head looks like it has reddish spots almost like he rubbed it off. I put in Betta Fix last night in his tank. After looking over your blog I am not sure I doing the right thing. He swims, begs for food and seems happy but he is looking rather shabby. I also read in your blog to take out the carbon filter before treating the water but I didn't do that because I didn't know until today that I should have done that. Will that hurt him more? (I was also overfeeding him) Someone said maybe he was conditioning.

Your blog has helped me in so many ways. It is wonderful and I sure thank you for your time and caring.

A: Thanks for writing in. Looking at the photos and description you provided I can't tell for certain that anything is really wrong. The whitish/purple coloration on the fins and red coloring on the head could certainly be indicative of natural coloration. It's very common for a Betta's coloration to change shortly after you bring him home. When the fish goes from cold dirty water at the store and is placed in a clean warm environment their true colors begin to intensify in their vibrancy and often the change can be quite drastic. I have observed this color change happen anywhere from the first couple of days up to a month or more after arrival. As Bettas age, their color changes as well so you may notice even more surprises over the next year. When the fish reaches the end of his natural life you may again notice the color changing but this time it will become dull and faded.

Just to be on the safe side, I recommend doing the usual water tests just to make sure there isn't anything off. It's good to do them regularly anyway, especially when the tank is just getting established. The most important tests for your set up are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, gh and kh. For more information on water parameters visit: All About Water

To touch on your feeding question, frozen blood worms are a great source of food but alone they don't make a complete and balanced diet. The freeze dried ones aren't all bad but they can cause constipation if overfed and tend to hold in water. Just be careful to only feed a couple at a time and soak them in a cup of tank water for 10 minutes or so before feeding. You may want to mix in a couple of other types of food just to make sure your Betta is getting a good variety. For food ideas check out the Feeding page on Nippyfish.net.

Thanks for your email and congratulations on your first Betta.

Photos provided by original emailer

Proper Disposal of Aquarium Fish

2007-06-13T14:51:00.001-07:00

Oscar fish., originally uploaded by Nekominn.

In the grand scheme of things many fish have a relatively short lifespan and as sad as it is eventually we will be faced with the loss of our dear little pet. For todays article I'm going to discuss appropriate means to dispose of the body. For many hobbyists, the loss of a fish brings up a variety of emotions including grief and frustration. In my opinion these emotions are valid and important to discuss but are better addressed in a separate article which I will cover shortly. For now, I'm going to focus on just the removal of the animal.

When you suspect your fish has died you want to be sure is that he is truly gone. Breathing often becomes quite labored so give yourself a moment to observe him closely making sure the gills or mouth aren't moving at all. Never dispose of a live fish. If your fish is sick but still alive then you should consider treatment or euthanization. For assistance making that decision read: Euthanizing Aquarium Fish on main Nippyfish.net website. A common myth about fish is that when they die they go "belly up" and float along the water's surface. This can occur due to gas build up within the body but more often the fish will fall to the tank bottom or become attached to the filter intake. If the latter is the case, unplug the filter to remove the body. If you use a net to remove the fish keep it separate from other equipment and don't use it in other aquariums until it has been sanitized. This is particularly important if your fish died from a communicable disease like a bacterial infection, virus or parasite. Nets can either be boiled (watch for melting plastic) or cleaned in a diluted bleach solution and rinsed and dried well.

Most people believe that flushing is the simplest and most acceptable method for fish disposal. After all, who hasn't seen that episode of the Cosby Show when Rudy's Goldfish dies and the whole family attends a toilet bowl service? What the average fish keeper doesn't realize is that flushing is not only dangerous for the environment but it is illegal. That's right, flushing a fish down the toilet risks introducing potential pathogens into the watershed and is a major no-no in the hobby. Of course the risk of being caught is very low but as aquarists it is our duty to act responsibly and to protect the very waterways that support the plants and animals we hold dear. Bottom line, never flush a fish.

The other major option you want to avoid is feeding your dead fish to a larger fish. While this is a common and acceptable method for culling deformed or unneeded fish, it is not recommended for fish that have contracted a disease or have already died. You don't want to risk infecting healthy animals.

Depending on your personal views of death there are other options. For many, myself included, throwing the fish away with the trash is a safer and simple alternative to flushing. It seems harsh, and I admit I felt a little strange about it the first few times, but ultimately I became comfortable with this method. It's best for those who subscribe to the ideology that this is just a body and the sweet little fishy personality that wiggled at the glass for me everyday is no longer present but swimming happily in the big pond in the sky.

If you have a composting area at your home this is also a viable option. This way the nutrients from your fish make their way back into the land. It's a circle of life thing and brings peace of mind to a lot of people.

Similarly, backyard burials are also very common with fish hobbyists. This is obviously a little more time consuming but is often the most emotionally sensitive method and incorporates that "back to the earth" ideology. This can also be a good tool for parents to use to discuss death with their children, though let me be clear that I know plenty of fish parents who bury their fish as much for their own sense of closure. What a lot of mammal lovers don't understand is that many fish become part of the family as much as any dog or cat. If you are going to bury your fish do it in a part of the yard unlikely to be disturbed later and far away from waterways including ponds, lakes, streams and rivers. Dig a hole at least 2 feet (60 cm) deep, deeper for large fish, and compact well. Dogs, raccoons and other animals have very sensitive noses and you don't want want them to dig up little Finny in the middle of the night. If you want to wrap the fish in something, I suggest newspaper, cheese cloth or other easily biodegradable materials.

I realize, of course, that people handle the death of their fish differently. Some feel very real grief while others take it as an unfortunate part of the hobby. However you feel about it, remember that fish keepers have a responsibility to each other and our Earth, maybe even more so than most because so many of our actions effect it directly. Please consider these alternatives to flushing the next time you are faced with the loss of your aquarium fish.

Flavobacterium columnare (Cotton Wool Disease)

2007-06-08T17:05:00.001-07:00

Tito, originally uploaded by guerogrande.

Q: AS wrote,

Hey. I have been in a dilemma over this problem for a whole week. My Betta fish lives in a rather big fish bowl with plastic plant. Recently, the tips of his fins have begun turning white and has two strands of whitish substance stuck to the fins. It started probably a week ago. My tank is of a nice temperature of 28 to 29 degrees and i add vitamins and necessary aquarium fish minerals. I feed the fish thrice a day, one pellet each. I have added fungal medicine for fin rot, cotton wool disease just two days ago but I don't see any improvement in him. He still eats like a pig, but he is a little lethargic and does not blow bubble nests anymore. I bought the fish two weeks ago at a trade fair and changes his water every three days. HELP!

A: Hi, thanks for writing in. Often when we see white stringy strands on Betta fins we can surmise that a bacterial infection has taken hold. We often assume the infection is caused by Flavobacterium columnare (Cotton Wool Disease), a gram negative bacterium that in appearance looks like a fungus. Without basic laboratory equipment we can not be completely sure if this is the diagnosis but it is a fair educated guess to go on. The common symptoms of a Flavobacterium columnare infection are stringy or fuzzy patches on the body or fins, usually white, gray or beige in color. It is common for infected fish to become lethargic, suffer appetite loss, dull in coloration, and stop blowing bubble nests. If left untreated, the bacteria often spreads and may eventually lead to death.

The cause of these infections is usually poor water quality and without fixing the source of the problem fish tend to suffer from reoccurring illnesses. So the two major steps in treating any fish illness is to first determine and correct the cause and then treat the disease. Fish are most susceptible to disease within the first two weeks in a new environment. Since your fish became ill about a week after bringing him home, it's fair to assume the change in environment is to blame and not necessarily the way you care for your Betta. Even if the new tank is clean and stable, the water parameters (ph, temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, gh and kh) may be different from what they were at the store. These changes can stress the fish leading to various diseases of which Flavobacterium columnare is one of the most common. Another observation I made based on your email is the water temperature. 28C - 29C [82F - 84F] is a little on the warm side and perfect for these bacteria. Flavobacterium columnare can present itself in a variety of water conditions but outbreaks tend to occur most often in the spring and summer as temperatures rise. Lowering the heat to a stable temperature between 24C - 26C [76F - 79F] may help and is still warm enough for your Betta. I also strongly encourage you to test your water regularly using inexpensive test kits sold at any aquarium store. Remember, the water parameters that effect fish are completely invisible and have no smell or color. Even if your water appears crystal clear, the tests will show you what you can't see on your own.

So that's how you can fix the source of the problem. To treat Flavobacterium columnare you will need a wide spectrum antibiotic that specifically targets gram-negative bacteria. If the infection is severe or spreading, treating with a combination of gram-negative and gram-positive antibiotics can help stave off both the initial and secondary infections. I like to use a combination of Mardel's Maracyn and Maracyn-Two. Depending on the country you live in you'll need to find a similar medication designed to treat this illness. When you begin a course of antibiotics be sure to follow the dosing carefully and finish the entire recommended course. It may take several days before symptoms subside and a second full course of antibiotics may be necessary. Be sure to remove any chemical filtration like activated carbon before treatment if you have a filter running in your bowl.

Click for more information on treating Flavobacterium columnare.